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Drip Rail Mouldings

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  • Drip Rail Mouldings

    On my Daytona, there used to be chrome drip rail mouldings. These get damaged when being removed. What have others used for replacement mouldings. I know there are vinyl ones available, but anything in stainless? Can they be repaired like body side mouldings?
    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

  • #2
    They can be repaired, however the guy who buffed my stainless convinced me buy others ( I too kinked mine taking it off) He explained less costly than having them repaired.
    sigpic

    Packardbakerly,
    J.D.

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    • #3
      99% of the damage found on drip rail moldings is done when they're removed. Best bet is to simply leave them alone, unless you manage to score NOS ones.

      They can be repaired, within reason. They're very thin and fragile.. I've had my straightening hammer "stretch" them by using too much force, and have wrapped one or two around the buffing wheel.

      As far as replacing them with something other than the original trim, I've never heard of anything.
      Last edited by mbstude; 07-31-2013, 06:45 PM.

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      • #4
        Remember to put the *slab of metal in them to hold and support them while on the wheel. I know, it's possible to wrap them anyhow. BTDT

        *Slab: 3" X 15"
        sigpic
        Lark Parker --Just an innocent possum strolling down life's highway.

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        • #5
          Even my "Maestro" hates to do them because they truly are a b***h, and he has been in the trade for 32 years.

          We will have a new site up soon: https://www.custompolishandchrome.com
          Barry'd in Studes

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          • #6
            The trick to removing the drip rail is to use a old style beer can opener, the type with one pointed end and a blunt end. Use the blunt end with some tape to protect the stainless. Work slowly and it will not damage the drip rail. Do not use a paint can opener - I learned that myself. Mine is a vintage Hamm's Beer model.

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            • #7
              Get some new ones.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 5brown1 View Post
                The trick to removing the drip rail is to use a old style beer can opener, the type with one pointed end and a blunt end. Use the blunt end with some tape to protect the stainless. Work slowly and it will not damage the drip rail. Do not use a paint can opener - I learned that myself. Mine is a vintage Hamm's Beer model.
                I have a lot of bottle openers. Do you have a picture of the one you use?
                Tom - Bradenton, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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                • #9
                  Beer opener

                  Here you go. One picture shows the tape used to protect the drip rail. Again, although paint can openers appear similiar they will not work the same - voice of experience.
                  Attached Files

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