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  • Body tag attachment

    Why do some folks remove the body tag when they restore a car?

    This one would raise all sorts of red flags when I took it to be inspected to get it titled as in our state all out of state titles require ID inspections.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stude...51969c&vxp=mtr

    If you are going to remove it then at least reinstall like it should be
    Milt

    1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
    1961 Hawk 4-speed
    1967 Avanti
    1961 Lark 2 door
    1988 Avanti Convertible

    Member of SDC since 1973

  • #2
    It looks stock to me. Milt, look at a bunch of em, and you will see that they were spot welded then masked at the factory, and the masking often was askew, thus leaving bare metal edges like this one shows.
    This one still sports the spot welds. They were also not very well lined up to the pre-punched holes.
    If your talking about the body tag under the hood, the pics were too bright, and not detailed enough for me to see it.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      Why? (1) Well, they can easily get lost, damaged or defaced by body shops -- so it's better to remove them to a safe place. (2) 20 or so years ago, most states did not require any kind of ID inspection. That is a fairly recent development triggered by the various federal laws intended to stop car theft. The trick is to not lose the tags and make sure they get reattached exactly where they came from. (3) Even if you're doing your own work, you may want to sand that area prior to painting, especailly if changing the color. (4) They're pretty easy to remove.
      Skip Lackie

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      • #4
        The Serial Number Plates are pretty well attached to the Door Post. Short of cutting a piece out of the door post and grinding the weld away from the back, how do you propose to "EASILY" remove them without damage Skip?
        Milt, I guess we have the wrong link or something, what I see is a nice looking '58 Silver Hawk with no good views of the Serial Number Plate, and none discernible of the "Body Tag" or it's location. Most Pics are very poor.

        But this IS a modified Car, it's a 6 with apparently a 289 V8 Engine conversion.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 07-16-2013, 11:27 AM.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner



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        • #5
          The tag on my Daytona was held on by 1 spot weld, and that was at the very top. There was a botched attempt on the lower right side of the plate, but there was no penetration with the weld. Both the serial number plate and the body/cowl take have been removed and are with the title.











          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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          • #6
            With as many cars as Studebaker was building in an hours time, I wouldn't be remotely surprised if they didn't always line these up perfectly. Mind you, this was a time where all cars were built by hand, and not a single 0.00001" precision robot arm was in sight.
            '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

            "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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            • #7
              I think he is referring to the missing body tag(s). You can clearly see where the hole is for the missing screw on the cowl. As to the serial plate, I believe the spot for the plate was masked by the factory before painting, leaving a square bare patch that allowed the serial plate to be spot welded over the bare spot. Plate location over the bare spot was was not precise. In painting this car, they obviously maintained the unpainted area, as per the original.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                The Serial Number Plates are pretty well attached to the Door Post. Short of cutting a piece out of the door post and grinding the weld away from the back, how do you propose to "EASILY" remove them without damage Skip?
                I don't claim to be an expert at this, as I guess I've only removed four or five serial plates, a couple of trucks and the rest Larks. They all came off easily with a thin chisel behind them. One of the trucks wasn't welded on at all -- just sheet metal screws.
                Skip Lackie

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                • #9
                  The serial plate on my '66 was held on by screws. And this was an original low mileage car so I assume it was done that way by the factory.

                  Chris.

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                  • #10
                    I agree this is one nice looking car. The second from last picture is one of the body tag on the door post. It appears to me that originally two spot welds had held it on. The one in the upper left corner looks slightly torn and the one in the right looks like it has been popped off.

                    If I am wrong this would not be the first time.
                    Milt

                    1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
                    1961 Hawk 4-speed
                    1967 Avanti
                    1961 Lark 2 door
                    1988 Avanti Convertible

                    Member of SDC since 1973

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                    • #11
                      It looks to me the ebay car's plate has come off for whatever reason and is now held on with double sided foam tape. It is "too high" above the surrounding door post metal. This in addition the obvious misalignment with where the paint was masked off.

                      Is that the correct S/N one would expect on a '58 Hawk? I see it starts with GIxxxxxx (G1xxxxxx). Isn't that a S/N for like a '54 champion??
                      sigpic
                      Jeff in ND

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                      • #12
                        There seems to be a lot of confusion between body number plate (on the firewall) and serial number plate (on the A-pillar)[used for a VIN].

                        The Serial Number listed for this eBay Hawk is for a South Bend built Scotman or Champion. It would only be correct for this Silver Hawk if this Hawk originally was built with a six cylinder engine (one of 2442).
                        Gary L.
                        Wappinger, NY

                        SDC member since 1968
                        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                        • #13
                          G1412238 could totally BE a '58 Silver Hawk 6, as I said in post #4 it WAS a Six.

                          And that Serial Number Plate could be completely original, many of them were that misplaced and the space behind it was caused by it hitting the "hump" in the door post where the Dome Light Switch is.

                          I always thought you could view ALL of the eBay Pics from the larger right hand, lower, Pics list, but I missed the close-up because I never look at the tiny enlargeable Pics at the Top.
                          Last edited by StudeRich; 07-17-2013, 03:31 PM.
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner



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