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Grease that steering bellcrank

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Thanks for verifying the obvious as in post #3 Bez, that is the best Pic or actual "A" Arm I have ever seen showing what the designed in "TWIST" actually does to the rubber in the bushing which usually can not be seen.

    My "Fix" for that does not suit everyone, but I think Delrin may be a bit hard (harsh) for the Large Lower A Arm Bushings that take most of the road shock and transmit it throughout the car, but they really ARE needed on the quicker wearing uppers, IMHO.
    Not too harsh at all Rich. After all they were originally designed with steel bushings (51+52) . That plus the fact that delrin or steel pivot freely, helps with the supposed road shock transfer.

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  • PlainBrownR2
    replied
    I did have a center assembly go bad on me in the Lark. My Lark had one of the older bearing style center assembies. It was after I had the flexplate replaced, that I discovered that when it was cold, the wheel would have trouble moving. I had to work the wheel back and forth to free up, and then it'd be fine after that. Well, it took a few weeks for it to happen, but everyday it'd be the same story. I didn't know what it was, except it was making the wheel real stiff, and this was a power steering equipped car too, with a fully maintenanced system to boot. Well, one day I pulled out of the driveway, got no more than 30 feet, and I completely lost my steering! I could spin the wheel freely in my hand and nothing would happen. As best I could, I got the car to wander into the ditch in front of our house, and of course I couldn't get it back into the driveway. Of course, this didn't happen on a summer day either, that'd make too much sense, this was the middle of winter with snow on the ground. We had a cop drive by the house, and he asked me if I had spun out. No, I just completely lost my steering. Eventually with the help of our neighbor, a cop, and backing up traffic in both directions, my neighbor towed my Lark by it's rear axle into the driveway. Once there, my Dad and I moved the car to the garage, where I pulled my broken Saginaw box out and replaced it with another we had on hand. Still behaving as it was before, we started looking around until we pulled the center support assembly out. One of the bearings, which was in a well greased support assembly mind you, had seized, and no amount of grease was going to free it. A trip to NAPA to find the correct Timken bearings, and I was able to steer again! The hardest part of out that whole ordeal was removing the steering box, even by the shop manual's instructions, because the tolerances between it, and the exhaust manifold had to be opened up by removing some of the casting from the manifold, they were that tight!

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Thanks for verifying the obvious as in post #3 Bez, that is the best Pic or actual "A" Arm I have ever seen showing what the designed in "TWIST" actually does to the rubber in the bushing which usually can not be seen.

    My "Fix" for that does not suit everyone, but I think Delrin may be a bit hard (harsh) for the Large Lower A Arm Bushings that take most of the road shock and transmit it throughout the car, but they really ARE needed on the quicker wearing uppers, IMHO.

    Leave a comment:


  • bezhawk
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	00-Upper Control Arm.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	120.6 KB
ID:	1680436With new bushings, alignment won't be a problem. When they (uppers especially) wear, camber will change. This upper bushing will look perfectly normal if you looked at it as installed in the car. The reason is the large end washer hides the obvious wear. The shaft is supposed to be centered in the rubber. They only thing that moves is the twist of the rubber, the inner steel sleeve is fixed and does not rotate on the shaft, and the outer sleeve is pressed tightly into the control arm. All the forces are taken by the rubber.



    They gernade in a couple of years with daily driving!
    Last edited by bezhawk; 06-23-2013, 07:41 AM.

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  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    For what it may be worth...your cars "bellcrank" wasn't bad..it was the bellcranks "center support" assembly that was bad.
    Pretty hard to wear out the actual bellcrank..!!

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • lschuc
    replied
    Originally posted by LarkTruck View Post
    Good luck on the alignment Milt. Long time Stude Mechanic Abe Witmer actually found the only way to get some Blake Era Avantis within camber spec is to relocate the lower control arm bolt holes in the crossmember.
    Before I would do that, I'd flip the upper control arm bushing bar which can provide more camber, depending on which way it is currently installed.

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  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    Originally posted by LarkTruck View Post
    Good luck on the alignment Milt. Long time Stude Mechanic Abe Witmer actually found the only way to get some Blake Era Avantis within camber spec is to relocate the lower control arm bolt holes in the crossmember.
    Yuck! I'm an alignment tech by trade and such a mod would give me the willies unless all it entailed was elongating the existing lower arm holes on the crossmember to shift the arm(s) in question into spec.

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  • LarkTruck
    replied
    Good luck on the alignment Milt. Long time Stude Mechanic Abe Witmer actually found the only way to get some Blake Era Avantis within camber spec is to relocate the lower control arm bolt holes in the crossmember.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Originally posted by Alan View Post
    Milt; I wouldn't feel right taking your money on 4.
    Yep, I agree, #4 is more likely upper "A" Arm Bushings worn causing too much Negative Camber or extreme Toe-in.

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  • Alan
    replied
    Milt; I wouldn't feel right taking your money on 4.

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  • unclemiltie
    started a topic Grease that steering bellcrank

    Grease that steering bellcrank

    I just bought an 84 Avanti. It turns out the bellcrank was bad. In 63/64 they went to a bushing style while the earlier one (used since 51) had bearings. I replaced this one with one with bearings.

    For some reason these are often overlooked when the car is greased. I bet there is at least one person reading this forum that is unaware that you have to grease the bellcrank on cars from 1950 forward!

    I took it for a test drive after the repair and several problems on the list of things to investigate are corrected! These include 1) steering wandering, 2) shimmy in the front end 3) the unknown "clunk" is gone and 4) I bet the tires will no longer wear on the inside like the current ones did.
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