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Cleaned the front undercarriage on the '63 Daytona

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  • #16
    Continuing our progress on the frame. The front is now done, on with the middle!!

    1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
    1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
    1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
    1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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    • #17
      Get er done!!!
      That's looking good.

      Dean.

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      • #18
        I gotta hold up a bit, as I had to drag out Ol' Sparky, some angle iron, and small pieces of sheetmetal, and patch a wing crossmember on the Lark. If you don't know about this section, this is where the wings that come off the outer framerails, the inner body tub, and the rocker panels, all join together at a blind triangular point behind the front wheel. I say blind, because Studebaker did not put a drain hole or anything up here, and over the next 50 years, sediment accumulates in this corner, and proceeds to rust out this corner. My Commander had similar issues in its later years, but luckily, this only seems to be confined to the passenger side. So, I had to go in there and MIG weld a patch panel in place, before continuing to clean and paint the undercarriage. This section will be revisited once again, as new rocker panels need to be installed on both sides of the car.



        A handy tip, with a little bit of Red Green Show thrown in. I needed to vacuum the dirt out of this area, and the large hose on the shop vac wouldn't fit, so I duct taped a small piece of copper tubing to the large end of the hose, and sucked the dirt and dust from the blind corner in there. Believe me, there was also alot of it in there too....

        1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
        1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
        1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
        1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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        • #19
          Welp, the passenger wing support is fixed, and now we're approaching the halfway point on the car....











          I'll go back and close the rest of the "hole" later, when I get to the point where I need to do the body and floorwork.
          I also have to lodge a complaint with the POR-15 guys. I paid 50 bucks for a quart of the stuff, and I'm aware of it's properties where it starts to interact with the moisture in the atmosphere(gets hard). Could you please put it in a container with a twist top? After three separate occasions where I needed to remove and put back the lid, I finally settled on a glass pasta sauce jar with a twist top, because the can couldn't take it anymore, and wouldn't reclose. Good Lord, I paid good money for a good product, I expect it in something a little more technologically advanced than what's a little above what they use for house paint . The task is also half finished to, so I don't need this going back before it's done......
          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

          Comment


          • #20
            A few things I've learned about POR-15......

            Sometimes when I open a new can, I transfer the contents into several smaller plastic bottles with screw-on caps. Fill the bottles completely up so there is no air space, and tighten down the cap. Now I believe POR-15 offers thier product in a 'six-pack' of small cans, so that is another way to go.

            Make sure before you put the lid back on that the lid and the groove in the can are completely clean. Dampen a clean rag with either the POR-15 thinner or regular lacquer thinnner.

            Another trick is to use a piece of plastic food wrap "Saran Wrap" between the lid and the can; I've had a lot of success with this, never had an issue getting a can back open.
            Paul
            Winston-Salem, NC
            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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            • #21
              I used the Saran Wrap, actually it was just one of a million plastic baggies we have around here. Every so often I'd have to change out the plastic because the paint would glue the plastic to the underside of the lid. But the really frustrating part is I finally gave up on the can after the 3rd or 4th time and put the contents in a glass pasta jar with the plastic baggie, because the can underneath had gotten mashed down so bad from tapping it shut, that it wasn't closing anymore.
              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

              Comment


              • #22
                I think I'm all but done on this part of the car, but first, I guess I should put up a bunch of photos of this faint little item on the rearmost crossmember, that's stamped on the bottom part of the lip. Look fast, because it got covered in POR-15....











                If you can see the numbers, that's the other serial number, or as it's so called, the Secret Serial Number, and mines still back there after wire wheel brushing years of surface rust from it! Without checking the door jamb, I could read "V-12762", which on the door jamb is "63V-12762". I think the "63" is still up there too, but it was pretty faint.

                Now for the main act. I pretty much completed the rest of frame under the car. I about lost it when I dumped my new pint of POR-15 all over the ground, so I finished it, with whatever was left in the can. 20 bucks from a 30 dollar can...poof....gone!!























                I still have to do the engine crossmember, but I have a can of Rustoleum for that(sorry, lol). I'll also go back with a spray can and get all the little spots that I missed. But, I think for now it's pretty much complete.
                1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                Comment


                • #23
                  I have one of the last pieces under the car all finished up. I got another crossmember from Jim Maxey III(thanks again Jim ) at the May meet to replace the one that was under the car. For the past few days I wire wheel brushed it, primed it, and painted it with Rustoleum High Heat black. Sometime this weekend I'll probably mount it under the car with simple Grade 8 nuts and bolts from Menards.





                  1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                  1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                  1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                  1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Looking good... I dropped Por 15 in favor of "Mater Series" and alternate between a needle scaler and wire brush on the grinder to cut through the gravel and rust scale. At first glance it reminded me of the metalic brown '62 Daytona I parted with 45 years ago.

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                    • #25
                      Thanks! This is a step above with what I used to do, which was nothing! Well, I should say, I didn't do anything to the '64 Commander, did my best, using Rustoleum black, on the '55, and went a step above that with the Daytona. I bought some wire wheel brushes that you chuck in a drill, so I used those to clean the crud out. This is an improvement over the 80 grit sandpaper, and Rustoleum that I used on the '55. It's still plenty time consuming to do, but it may be well worth it. We've been using POR-15 since around 1994, when the techs would set up shop at the swap meets. It seems they don't do that anymore, but I lucked out, because our NAPA store here was previously ran by a car guy(he knew us by name and that we were the residential Studebaker guys too, lol!), so I believe he was able to get them to stock pint and quart sizes on the shelf, which was great. The next step up from this is probably a media blaster, but I don't have the shop facilities for one of those. If you're going to live here in the upper Midwest, it will be a real PITA, but I'd advise doing something like this, at least as a preventative measure if your Stude is going to be a driver. I called it "armor plating" while I was putting the paint on the underside of the car, because that's what it should be doing down there!

                      Anyway, here's some of my progress from today. With some Menards Grade 8 nuts and bolts, the engine crossmember just bolted right in!!

                      1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                      1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                      1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                      1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                      Comment

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