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Almost one of my favorite times of year again...

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  • Almost one of my favorite times of year again...

    No not Christmas, New Years Bowl games or even the Super Bowl !

    My stack, pile and Grapefruit Box method of parts filing gave way to a primitive form of organization the year I discovered HD's annual January less than $5 storage tub sale. The Champ in red tubs (it's new color), the Speedster in green tubs (its original color). the Lark another shade of green to match it's color and the Galaxie in blue! My final touch is Classy duck tape labels for "As Removed", "De-Rusted", "Repainted (and ready to instal)l", "Polished", "New, Small or Delicate", etc.

    Gray tubs are reserved for electrolysis rust removal tanks.

    The bonus is the functionality of tub lids for use as scrub trays on the work bench and drip pans under vehicles etc. Until they also have a Zip Lock bag sale for small parts, I'll have to keep using recycled ones from the kitchen.

    I making my list and checking it twice to make sure I get the right colors.

  • #2
    I do it a little differently; my storage "Tubs" are mostly the same color Rubbermaid brand of Light or Dark Blue but the labels are a lot different, since I probably have around 50 or 60,000 Lbs. more, all Studebaker Parts than you do.

    Mine say; Electrical, Engine, Fuel, Suspension, Brakes, Body Parts, Chrome, Rubber etc. Most fit all late V8s, but a few would of course be limited to certain years and some others that fit older than 1954, and even a few for 6 Cylinder cars.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      I did it... I splurged and upgraded my electrolysis rust removal tank. Walmart had nice red 45 gallon Christmas storage tubs for $15 and I added 2nd piece of rebar for $2. Can't quite fit a whole car in there but it's getting close. Shot below is of a bucket seat bottom after its been in the tank about an hour on 75 amps.

      If you haven't tried this for cleaning small parts... headers, seat frames, hinges, window regulators etc. give it a shot. Plastic tub, 1 tablespoon of WASHING soda (not baking soda) per gallon of water, a piece or two of rebar and the battery charger sitting on your shelf.

      Just remember to hook the + terminal to the rebar and the negative to the object being cleaned. DO NOT LET THE PART AND +ELECTRODE TOUCH! 12 amps is adequate for 8 to 12 hours, they rince, scrubbrush or wire brush off the residual. When it dries, spray it with ospho to control flash rust until you get around to painting the part. Hidden parts are a great way to use up all those left over spray cans I accumulate.

      Oh, don't attach your negative directly to the part as your battery clamo will get groady quick. I put self tapping screws into the battery clamp, use 12 ga electric wire to the part and bolt it on for a good connection. Just be sure to have negative on your part or you part will accumulate the rust rather than the rebar.

      Water gets murky quickly but remains effective. Dump iron rich residue on your lawn for fertilizer when done.

      Click image for larger version

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