Rust holes repaired the right way.

[candbstudebakers]

Brian
What did the floor come out of ?
Bob
Looks like you started with a good floor. Was the rust only on thr roof ?
Klif

Klif, the floors are in pretty good so I put por-15 on them to keep then good, the roof problem was from the bad after market vinyl roof installed it was the padded type and easy for moisture to get in and over the years all hell can break loose

[Jessie J.]

My post here (#8 above) has generated several PM inquries. So I believe it best that I provide this further information on this opportunity.

Here is a lising of most of what I have on hand; (all 1964 Daytona)

5 sets of HT/Conv doors, most with all internal mech. and windows intact.

4 hoods, (2 of them are SASCO NOS)

4 NOS grills a couple still in the original Stude boxes + a couple of good used ones

Several sets of headlight doors

NOS factory rocker panels

4 sets of used but good rear 1/4 panels

3 sets of front fenders + a set of NOS fronts and NOS inner panels

2 trunk lids with all trim (these are becoming very hard to come by now)

NOS still in the box R&L vent window assemblies ( have never seen another set of these for sale anywhere)

2 sets of bucket seats and consoles. ( one set of black buckets, I just removed last week are actually '63 or 4 Hawk)

1 split recliner bench

several dash boards (all have cracks )

NOS chrome inst. cluster surround (comes with NOS '63 brushed Aluminum instrument plate)

multiple sets of interiour panels.

PowerShift Automatic transmission floor shift assembly and floor tower

literally a hunderd or more pieces of stainless and aluminum ( including a complete set of NOS '64 Commander narrow stainless body-side moldings -I like them much better than the wide aluminum ones that turn dull on the Daytona models- also have the Commader stainless roof gutter trim that was not used on Daytona's.)

4 steering coloums and boxes ( one is 4 speed/Powershift >no shift handle)

R-3 cast iron headers purchased from Ted Harbit (never installed] and A complete Don Simmons stainless steel 2 1/4" R-3 exhaust system including straight through SS mufflers & SS clamps (never installed) -Price this out in todays market.

2 1964 259 full-flow engines and auto transmissions

1 '64 289 full-flow with PowerShift trans

Delco distributor, Prestolite alternators

New 'Show Chrome' '64 valve covers never installed since chroming (looked through a dozen sets and selected the best of the bunch, really nice)

NOS tail light chrome rings (NLA and hard to find unpitted, big $$$ to have rechromed.

NOS standing 'S' Hood ornament (also have several of the 'S' that appeared on the Commaner models roof sail panels)

Multiple tailight assemblies.

Gauge Clusters

several very nice clocks

NOS 160 MPH speedometer

2 Daytona 44 rear axels

lots of rims, the roof panels, quarter glass, backlights, and more.

This is my private collection of two decades of attending Studebaker meets, buying on e-bay, and the parting out of 3 Daytona HTs. I am not a dealer
I would like to see this all go at once along with the weathered but very restorable '64 Daytona HT that I now have about $3000 tied up in minus these extra parts

I spent years in the time and travel involved in searching out, hauling thousands of miles, collecting, and providing storage of these cars and parts.
If one is serious about the owning, restoring, and maintaining of a '64 Studebaker Daytona there will perhaps never be another opportunity to come across such a large collection of model specific parts in one location.

I'm not trying to make a killing off this, most of the NOS and e-bay items I still have the purchase invoices for, and do wish to at least recieve back their original costs. Some I know that I that could e-bay and easily recieve double or triple of what I paid 20 years ago. I do not desire to sell off only the cream and shiny bits, and still be stuck with tons of leftover '64 parts.

This is for the serious Studebaker enthusiast/restorer who has the storage space, shop, skills, and desire.

Make a reasonable offer and it can all be yours

[candbstudebakers]

Ok Milt I see what you mean, what can one do but move on, hope he sells every thing.

[thunderations]

I would recomend putting some paint on the roof before putting vinyl on it, if it's not an epoxy. Many primers are simply that, a prime coat for paint, not a protective finish. Many primers are pourous and moisture will go right through them and rust under the primer. Years as a restoration shop owner allowed me to see many projects that had been worked on and primed to protect it until painted. When the owner brought it to my shop and we started to prep the car for paint, the primer had rust under it. Most epoxy primers will seal moisture out. If my projects can't get E coated after being stripped, they get epoxied before anything else happens. Epoxy primers can be used as a sealer prior to finish coat too.

[studegary]

I would recomend putting some paint on the roof before putting vinyl on it,.

I doubt that the car will ever see a vinyl roof again. 1964 Daytona hardtops were not offered with vinyl tops.

[candbstudebakers]

I doubt that the car will ever see a vinyl roof again. 1964 Daytona hardtops were not offered with vinyl tops.

Right on Gary, I never removed an original that had any problems, but after market with a little padding you can plan on problems, here are some pictures I took of the Daytona roof before going to my body man, believe me when I say he knows what he is doing , only been doing it for over 40 years, also the reason the whole roof is in primer is because he sanded all the old glue off and any extra crap, the car also had been hit a little at the right rear tail light and he fixed that and we installed a good housing.

[studefan]

Jessie, check your PM please.