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Newbie here... building a 46 M-5 into an old school hot rod roadster pick up...

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  • Newbie here... building a 46 M-5 into an old school hot rod roadster pick up...

    1st off... Hi... I'm Magnum... gotta love the orphans... I have a survivor 38 Nash Lafayette trunkback sedan, that I'm keeping as original "looking" as possible, & I love cruising in, but I'm one of those guys that everything I own is custom, so the Studie, is getting the treatment... my goal of this build, will be a hot rod "as could have been built on the farm, pre 64...

    The truck belonged to my FIL, who restored all his cars & trucks original, the original lil 6 had been hopelessly stuck for a couple years before he got it, & after unsuccessfully going through the normal cure alls for unsticking a motor, it got dragged to the pasture, where it sat for another 20 years, until I dragged it up to the drive way this summer

    I found a Studebaker sweepstakes 289 & 3 speed overdrive ( supposedly a good runner from a 58 Silver Hawk ), & have the truck now stripped to the frame for alterations... I'm trying to keep as much Studie personality as possible I've picked up a set of Studebaker script dog dishes that will ride on new steel wheels... I'll be running 6" steel wheels in front, & 10" wide in the rear

    the motor has a 2 barrel, & I just bought an original cast iron 4 barrel manifold, likely will stick a Carter back on it, but am open there yet

    what I'd really like to find, is a set of headers... I'm prepared to build my own if needed, but would really like to find a set of late 50's or early 60's pipes... any suggestions ???

    also I've heard that a GM distributor can be modified to fit... I have a mechanical dash tach from a early 60's Corvette, that I've mounted in an old headlight bucket, to make a "monster" mechanical tach of sorts, & am hoping to modify a mechanical tach output GM distributor to work in the 289, for my big ol tach

    I'm sure I'll have alot of questions as I get closer... hoping you guys won't beat me up too bad for cutting up a realitively common & no frills truck, with a hopelessly stuck motor, from MN, the rust capital of the US
    Last edited by Magnum Wheel Man; 08-23-2012, 06:31 AM.

  • #2
    Stude used Delco distributors in its 59-61 V8s, so if you can find one, it's a drop-in. The version used on the 60 and 61 Larks is the later Delco with the window to set the dwell with the engine running. All can be modified for electronic ignition.
    Skip Lackie

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    • #3
      I noticed my original was a Delco, but didn't know if there were some internal changes... thought I remembered that something needed to be machined smaller... & honestly I'm a bit hesitant to pull the dist. without any books or technical info to make sure I put it back in correctly... at least this early in the build ( I have so many other things I'm working on right now )

      Comment


      • #4
        Pictures, pictures, pictures!
        Tom
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Welcome to our 24/7 cyber campfire! (although our moderator probably thinks that sometimes its more like a day care!)

          Sounds to me like you are very competent, mechanically, have the facilities, and may only be lacking a bit in Studebaker specific knowledge and resources. If that's the case, my suggestion is to be patient and not rush anything. Additionally, be sure to keep a tough skin as we sometimes get a bit edgy here. I contend that us Studebaker fans have what I call a "Studebaker Personality"...and that the edgy characteristic sometimes leads to misunderstandings.

          There are certain strict "purists" among us that don't care for modified vehicles, but even they seem to be modifying their positions. The fact that you are sticking to Studebaker power, should certainly soothe them somewhat.

          Even though you are modifying the truck, may I suggest you buy the shop manuals for the year of the truck and the car your engine came from. That way, you can get a good grasp of where things should be and modify from that perspective. There are several members on this forum who have done similar rods, and hopefully can give you some great tips on what they did, or even better, what they should have done. If you have not done so, join the SDC. The monthly magazine, Turning Wheels, is worth the cost of membership alone. Also, you should have a state chapter (and in some instances more than one). Join your regional chapter as well. You might be surprised at the resources available. One of the most often heard comments from people not familiar with Studebaker is..."You can't find parts." If you are one of those...and you take the time to join us...you are in for a big surprise!

          Again, welcome...post pictures...and post often. Can't wait to see the progress and the end result.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

          Comment


          • #6
            Honestly... actual pictures will get me banned from the site ???

            anyway I can attach a photoshop rendering... this rendering was done when I was still thinking about using my Ansen Sprints, but after I added some 37 Lafayette script dog dishes to new steel smoothies on my Nash, & loved how that looked, I decided to use 37 Studebaker script dog dishes on steelies on this build...

            frame is being notched in the front, & I'm keeping the original I beam front axle, but new mono springs will be mounted under the axle no air bags will be used on this build, ( my goal is front roll pan at 5" or so height ) the rear axle came out of a 1955 Ford station wagon, & is a Dana 44 flanged axle with a 4.09 gear ratio... it'll be held in place with a triangulated 4 link, & will keep a normal, or slight raised ride height, giving the truck a pretty raked stance, coil over shocks at all 4 corners, will allow for some tuneability... stopping will be done through 4 2.5" x 12" finned early 60's Cadillac drum brakes & a new dual chamber remote ressy master... cab was cut down to box height, the top 1/3 of the doors removed as well, also to box height, box will be shortened 12-14", & will have a wood floor... right now everything is stripped to the frame... I'm keeping all 4 fenders, but probably not the running boards, 6" will be sectioned out of the fire wall, to keep everything in proportion, as well as the hood... the gas tank will be moved to the rear, & the seat riser removed, in fact, the floor will actually be dropped ( & frame notched ) angled towards the back of the cab, to keep the floor ( & seat ) level, with the raked stance... I'm running Goodyear Eagle SS DOT drag radials in back, 325-50-15's & a short blackwall radial in the front

            oh...BTW... after hanging out on H.A.M.B. for a while, & getting beaten to death there for this project... I've got pretty thick skin... I'm also on Stude Truck Talk, & they've been great over there...
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Magnum Wheel Man; 08-23-2012, 07:52 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Magnum Wheel Man View Post
              Honestly... actual pictures will get me banned from the site ???

              anyway I can attach a photoshop rendering... this rendering was done when I was still thinking about using my Ansen Sprints, but after I added some 37 Lafayette script dog dishes to new steel smoothies on my Nash, & loved how that looked, I decided to use 37 Studebaker script dog dishes on steelies on this build...

              frame is being notched in the front, & I'm keeping the original I beam front axle, but new mono springs will be mounted under the axle no air bags will be used on this build, ( my goal is front roll pan at 5" or so height ) the rear axle came out of a 1955 Ford station wagon, & is a Dana 44 flanged axle with a 4.09 gear ratio... it'll be held in place with a triangulated 4 link, & will keep a normal, or slight raised ride height, giving the truck a pretty raked stance, coil over shocks at all 4 corners, will allow for some tuneability... stopping will be done through 4 2.5" x 12" finned early 60's Cadillac drum brakes & a new dual chamber remote ressy master... cab was cut down to box height, the top 1/3 of the doors removed as well, also to box height, box will be shortened 12-14", & will have a wood floor... right now everything is stripped to the frame... I'm keeping all 4 fenders, but probably not the running boards, 6" will be sectioned out of the fire wall, to keep everything in proportion, as well as the hood... the gas tank will be moved to the rear, & the seat riser removed, in fact, the floor will actually be dropped ( & frame notched ) angled towards the back of the cab, to keep the floor ( & seat ) level, with the raked stance... I'm running Goodyear Eagle SS DOT drag radials in back, 325-50-15's & a short blackwall radial in the front

              oh...BTW... after hanging out on H.A.M.B. for a while, & getting beaten to death there for this project... I've got pretty thick skin... I'm also on Stude Truck Talk, & they've been great over there...
              OK OK after seeing that picture...I take all the nice things I said back!

              (Jus kidding)

              Since you're in Wisconsin...any plans for a custom snow plow attachment?


              Speaking of competent abilities...anybody capabable of spouting all those technical specs this early in the morning...sheish!...I had to go for a second cup of coffee and my eyes still glazed over!
              John Clary
              Greer, SC

              SDC member since 1975

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Magnum Wheel Man View Post
                Honestly... actual pictures will get me banned from the site ???
                Huh? No! Really, we LOVE photos! Post away!

                Regarding pulling your distributor, here's a link from my blog that will tell you all you need to know about that. This doc explains clocking, wire position and how to re-seat it once it's removed. No worries - it's a simple thing.

                We're glad to have you here! Welcome to the Forum! Oooh, and if you're going to post pix, show us that Nash, too
                Last edited by showbizkid; 08-23-2012, 03:18 PM. Reason: Forgot the link!
                Clark in San Diego
                '63 Standard (F2) "Barney"
                http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Welcome to the forum. I like where you are going with your build. Please keep us updated, and post lots of pictures.
                  TDITS The Dude In The Stude

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    When I saw the old school hot rod reference I had visions of a chopped up rat rod. If your truck turns out anything like the rendering it will be a nice piece. I am thinking of building a Stude V-8 powered M series also, but mine will keep the top and running boards. Keep us updated.
                    sigpic

                    "In the heart of Arkansas."
                    Searcy, Arkansas
                    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                    1952 2R pickup

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Magnum Wheel Man
                      We all own and love old cars. We also love our projects so please no more renderings .Part of the brotherhood is watching another fellow start projects worse than ours and completing them, it inspires us. So join SDC tell them k-hawk sent you I would like the patch I'll get for sending a new member. Thanks and we are waiting for pictures. K-Hawk

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        yup... no snowblower parts will find their way into my build... so it's not going to be a rat rod by any stetch of the word... I will have lots of spare parts ( I've already sold both my outside door handles ) I thinking of building a free standing ( probably stainless ) grill, so my bottom roll pan will be seperate from my grill ( original grill is all there, & good shape ) going to use flat stock & 3/8" rods, so it'll be a bit more sturdy, but will be same size & shape, so it'll bolt in nicely into the front end... the rendering is supposed to be primer brown, this will be a 2 year plus build ( at least those are my intentions ) I've got a mile or so of gravel, so the truck will be primer brown for several years, & I doubt you'll ever see a $5,000.00 paint job on it... but it will always be in some sort of paint... as it sits now, the rat guys would love it, 3 layers of pealing paint tan, then blue, then tan again, with moss growing on it,

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          OK... at the risk of my new standing roaming south... here are a few disassembly pics...
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by Magnum Wheel Man; 08-23-2012, 09:35 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            so what are my chances of finding an old set of headers... drag headers would even be fine...

                            BTW... my tire choice may seem out of place, being radials, but I'm building this to drive, & will be driving the crab out of it, as soon as it'll move under it's own power ( even if it looks like a rat with only 1/2 the body done, or even on the chassis )

                            My rear tires came in today, they are Goodyears DOT drag tires pic included, & will look nice ( IMO ) mounted on 10" steel Gennies, with the Studebaker script dog dishes pictured in my previous post
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Just a little imagination "ruminating" here...but until you do an actual "mock-up" on the engine, in place, how would you know if anyone else's headers would work for your application? Besides, with your fabrication skills, a few pieces of flat-iron, tubing, creative bending and welding to suit your dimensional needs shouldn't be a show-stopper.

                              I know you talked about eliminating the running boards, but well placed running boards incorporating heat shielded "Lake Pipes" kicked out and terminating between the back of the door and front of the rear fenders would be killer cool.
                              John Clary
                              Greer, SC

                              SDC member since 1975

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