Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Studebaker 2R5 1952 - Hot Rod process

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Hey TDITS!

    That's really important to know.... it's gonna be really useful. I'll have to get some metal sheets to make some bodywork (including the new exterior of the glove box) so I might use the shape and make the new cluster as well.

    What's the diameter of the gauges you used? I was checking and I'll have to use 100mm if I go for this option, because it is really difficult to find speedometers with 85mm. So to leave both on the same size, I'll go for the 100mm.

    Another idea would be like this:





    Not so stock, but easy to make and it looks quite good.

    Many doubts. lol



    Thank you so much for your support gentlemen!


    BRGDS

    Comment


    • #32
      What's the diameter of the gauges you used?

      Speedometer is 4 1/2 inches and the two smaller ones are 3 1/2. It was a tight fit with the ignition switch and the light switch but it all fit
      TDITS The Dude In The Stude

      Comment


      • #33
        Click image for larger version

Name:	Christm2011 001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	81.6 KB
ID:	1674997 This is how mine turned out. Once you fill in the original hole in the panel, you can place your gauges anywhere you want. You could even place your tach in it. There are a multitude of aftermarket guages you could combine to give you the data and the look you desire.
        Jon Stalnaker
        Karel Staple Chapter SDC

        Comment


        • #34
          Multiply inches by 25.4 to convert to millimeters. 4 1/2 inches = 114.3 mm.

          Comment


          • #35
            I mounted my Sun tach on the steering column down below the dash. It does not distract from the look of my stock dash, and is reasonably visible and does not interfer with my other gauge views or shifter shaft.

            Comment


            • #36
              Nick,

              I"ve got a selfadhesive decal that would re-do all the numbers and marks on the instrument panel glass. I'm willing to give it to you if you want it. Of course, if you're going to go with aftermarket gages....... I've also got a couple of complete truck instrument panels you could have for the cost of shipping.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Roscomacaw; 07-30-2012, 10:04 AM.
              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

              Comment


              • #37
                Thank you for the help gentlemen!

                I really do not know what to do. I got some special price for the aftermarket gauges and then it could be really easier go for them. I'll be double checking this tomorrow as I'm still in touch with the vendor.

                Roscomacaw, I've sent you a PM.

                I really don't doubt that I'll end up making both clusters work. So they'll be almost plug n play. Or even keeping the original one as a spare.

                Regarding the line I'll use if I make it with aftermarket gauges:



                To try to keep it more harmonic, I' d use two 100mm, one 52mm and one 60mm. To use the place where I nowadays have the gauges, I'd put three 60mm ones.



                Thank you gentlemen!


                BRGDS

                Comment


                • #38
                  Hello gentlemen,

                  After a long break, now we have some news on the old Stude.

                  I got the gear box and the gauges to be used on the cluster. The gearbox is a Mazda M5R1, the one used by the Ford Ranger, with the rear axle Ford 8,8", still to be delivered, expected for the beggining of next week.

                  So, enough of talking:















                  Except for the "direction sign one", all the others are 60mm and 100mm.



                  Now for the next thing to be bought, I'll go for the radiator, if possible using the Ranger OEM part, or a smiliar good brand one. And also I have to get the fans, so that everything is place, opnly neededing the wires later on.


                  One problem has come. I need to used brake discs on the front to make it safer and to allow it pass the govt tests. I thought about using the Ranger "wheel cubes" like this:



                  If I can adapt this part, I make it work with OEM brakes for the Ranger. So I can use the suspension quite similar with std and no big modiffications are needed.

                  Do you think this is the easier / cheaper way? I'd save time / headaches by installing the full Ranger front suspension / brakes?

                  The bolt pattern is 5x114.3..... not so commom in BR.



                  Thank you in advance!!


                  BRGDS

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Hello gentlemen,

                    The old Stude is not with many news, but the working process is about to start, next month.

                    Now I've exchanged the trunk and the new model will come in some days, the vendor is working on it, hopefully I'll get some pics quite soon.


                    Now some photos to update the ideas for the old stude:











                    So the dash board has been decided.... I'll put a metal sheet with the instruments on it and paint it white (the truck will be red).


                    I've been thinking of getting som parts from Summit, like mufflers and camshafts.... because most probably I'll need to have some parts from USA.

                    Are the camshafts they sell good? I mean with their own brand.



                    BRGDS Gents!!!!

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Hello dear gents,

                      It's been a long time without any updates.

                      Last week I have sent the Stude to the mechanic, so most probably he'll start the job any time soon. It'll be sand spraid to get all the old paint out, and then start all the welding and engine, transmission, rear axle adaptation.

                      The front suspension most probably I'll keep the springs as they are now (don't know the name for them in English), maybe as suggested by the mechanic, using GM Blazer rear springs for it.

                      As I talked to the vendor, the trunk must be ready tomorrow so I hope to get a picture of it and have it received by the half of december on the mechanic. I selected the one we know as "Canadian style" trunk, which uses no rear bumpers and the lights are installed at the lower part of the trunk.

                      I am already studying to see what will be the best to improve a little bit the engine output, as it originally has 162cv (40 cv/l). This could go with no risks to something around 60 ~ 65 cv/l. I'm checking the local legislation if turbo can be installed legally. Otherwise I'll have to keep the NA engine but change some items as camshaft and exhaust manifolds.

                      But for sure I'll use a stand alone fuel injection controller, to make it easier to install and accept the modifications and also as the engine will run is a non stock vehicle, it might be easier with less sensors and running it in a simpler way.

                      As a complement, I got the side emblems here in Brazil:





                      BRGDS gents!



                      Best

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Nice find and good luck with the project. Although most of us are working on some sort of Stude project it is nice to see another Portugese person interested in one. I am Portuguese but to not speak the language. (Azores decent). Ask questions here and at www.network54.com the Studebaker truck talk forum.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Gentlemen,

                          Now the job and restoration has started and the old Stude is already torn apart.

                          The body will be sand jetted and the base for the paint will be apllied to avoid rust from coming.

                          The cabin floor has to be changed and will be made new with 1,5 mm carbon steel metal sheet. As a benefit the mechanic has told me that the new powertrain is much smaller than the original onde so the floor will be flat, no need for the elevation for the gearbox. That space I will use to make some panel with the radio and maybe some other acessories.

                          The Ford 8.8" rear axle and the Ford Galaxie V8 cardan shaft have already arrived as well as the truck bed and rear fenders.

                          Maybe in one or two months time I'll visit again the workshop. Some more items are missing like the hydraulic steering, front brakes and radiator.

                          Most probably in 5 or 6 months time the mechanic will be finished. i'm already choosing the red tone I'll use for the paint and tthere a very nice pearl red used on the Fiat 500, which I have seen on the street these days, but I'm still defining.

                          Please see below the pictures:


                          Preparing to take the engine to the mechanic..... 240km of road!





                          And here how the Stude is and the parts I told you above:
























                          Thank you very much!

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            That's gonna be a lot of work, but in the end you will really enjoy it. Good luck with your project.
                            sigpic

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X