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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    Originally posted by wittsend View Post
    I've had mind on/off a number of times. For sure you need a deep socket, a universal joint and about 18" of extension. Wire brush the threads (use the small ones), spray with a penetrate and pray that nothing breaks. Yes, there are three studs per side.
    Hoping to get after this this weekend finally. Between moving and the newborn, I have just watched the car sit on the parking strip. I have been spraying it with the PB Blaster every so often so that it can work its way in and do its job. My cousin in law who is a diesel tech suggested giving the bolt a quick jolt to the right then trying to loosen it. He said to do this after it soaks for a while.

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    All great suggestions but I would like to caution if you use heat from an oxy/acet. torch, place a soaking wet rag on the starter & soleniod just as a precaution.

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  • wittsend
    replied
    I've had mind on/off a number of times. For sure you need a deep socket, a universal joint and about 18" of extension. Wire brush the threads (use the small ones), spray with a penetrate and pray that nothing breaks. Yes, there are three studs per side.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    Originally posted by cultural infidel View Post
    in my picture you can only see 2 bolts. When I look them up online all i find is ones with 3 bolts. Is there a 3rd hiding back in there? Also, anyone know what the size is that I should be looking for? 2"? 2-1/2"? I am looking at deletes and replacements. I am weighing all of my options. I most likely will not be driving this in the winter so I am not too consider about the chilly days. I generally let the car warm up for a bit of time.
    Ram's Horn exhaust manifolds all have 3 studs.

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  • nwi-region-rat
    replied
    I had a similar problem. bought a air body saw from harbor freight, it's about the size of a flashlight and has a nice short saws all type blade. Under $20 and worked great, I use it all the time now....

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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    in my picture you can only see 2 bolts. When I look them up online all i find is ones with 3 bolts. Is there a 3rd hiding back in there? Also, anyone know what the size is that I should be looking for? 2"? 2-1/2"? I am looking at deletes and replacements. I am weighing all of my options. I most likely will not be driving this in the winter so I am not too consider about the chilly days. I generally let the car warm up for a bit of time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip Lackie
    replied
    The heat riser heats up the fuel faster in cold weather so it will vaporize. It does this by partially blocking one of the exhaust head pipes and directing the exhaust gases through passages in the intake manifold to the other side. It really is not related to the enrichment provided by the choke. If you live in Fla, you can probably get along without it. But in Washington, your car will start moving a lot more easily on a cold day with a working heat riser.

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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    Next question about this.... what does the heat riser do? is it necessary? From what I understand, it's not as important since I have a manual choke already on the car.
    Last edited by cultural infidel; 07-06-2012, 01:07 PM.

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  • studegary
    replied
    I thought that you were trying to get studs or bolts out. Now that I see that you just need to remove nuts, simply destroy the nuts and replace them with brass nuts.

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  • mmagic
    replied
    Ouch ! I just did the same drill with engine out and it wasn't much fun. My solution having been there would be pull the manifold, sacrifice the studs to get it out and with manifold out drill out the old studs, clean re-tap the manifold threads. New studs are $4 at Advanced. That is essentially what I did.

    You can spend man-years trying to solve the problem in an awkward spot and still have old rusty studs that won't come off any easier the next time.

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  • johnod
    replied
    After you get it apart, you might try using brass/bronze nuts for reassembly, an old trick.

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  • new2drive
    replied
    You can also take the opposite approach and use something like Loctite Freeze and Release. I will tell you it works. We use it at the shop all of the time to aid in breaking frozen nuts up on meters that are solid rust. I have also used it on the Stude too. Sometimes heat, sometimes cold... it all has to do with breaking that rust seal between the parts.

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  • gordr
    replied
    Originally posted by 64V19816 View Post
    What I do with well and truly frozen bolts is use a dremel cutoff wheel and slice into it. Then a few whacks or sometimes a Twist with a screwdriver gets it iff
    What he says! They are exhaust flange nuts, not the Crown Jewels. Take the Dremel tool to them, and slice the nuts until you can just see the threads showing in the cuts. Slice them in two places if you can, and then a few taps with a hammer and cold chisel should knock the pieces off. You can probably buy a basic Dremel tool kit, or its Craftsman counterpart, for about $40, and it is money well spent. Get an extra sleeve of the little cutoff discs; they are fragile. Once the head pipes are off, run a die over the studs to clean up the threads.

    BTW, if you are really good with a cutting torch, you can smoke the nuts off there without damaging the studs. That used to be the routine way for muffler shops to deal with this issue.

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  • 64V19816
    replied
    What I do with well and truly frozen bolts is use a dremel cutoff wheel and slice into it. Then a few whacks or sometimes a Twist with a screwdriver gets it iff

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  • jclary
    replied
    Originally posted by cultural infidel View Post

    Thats what I am working with. The angles to get a socket in there absolutely suck. I had also never seen that middle "donut" (for lack of a better time) on a car before. The gaskets that I was told to purchase via NAPA's website look like a blue graphite donut instead of a flat gasket. Is this the correct gasket?
    If I am understanding your photo correctly, your exhaust connection involves the heat riser valve with a fixed flange gasket, and a floating flange that takes the donut style gasket. It also looks like the assembly was tightened with a slight mis-alignment with the right side squeezed tighter than the left which causes a bind increasing the difficulty in removing the rusty nuts.

    Unfortunately, one of the things that I think Studebaker was truly ahead of its time was "space economy." Which really is a euphemism for not leaving much room for working on the darn things. Also, any muffler shop too timid to tackle a job like this is probably not qualified to do a proper job in the first place. There are some great suggestions already mentioned. Enough heat to get it "cherry red" and six point sockets and/or a good old-fashioned wrench, candle wax, etc. are all excellent suggestions.

    About the worst thing is, if you are having to depend on the car as your daily transportation, because very often, it takes time and patience to allow these things to work to your advantage. Having to rush to do this type of job is often where you brake bolts and strip threads making a hard job even worse.

    Not only are you battling close working conditions, but you need top quality thin-walled sockets and wrenches because there is usually not much clearances between the nut you are trying to remove and the curved side of that exhaust pipe. Hang in there and keep at it. Few things give me more satisfaction than overcoming the difficult jobs. Fortunately for most of us...this is one we don't have to do very often.

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