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60 Lark Convertible Wiring *update* - DONE

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  • #31
    This is barely on topic, but I wanted to say that having seen Jim's Larks in person, I was highly impressed. (He sold me a set of tires on rims about 5 years ago. They mostly just roll the car around the garage, but still, I've only added air one time in all those years, so those are some rims!) I would imagine that the North Star guys should get you up and on the road in no time.
    '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

    "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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    • #32
      Eric do you have a color wiring guide for your car? I know I have one for a 58 Packard and one for a 63 Lark, but do not think they will work for your car. Maybe I am slow or maybe to scared, but the two that I have done took me the whole day. I checked everything twice before starting. These charts are not in the shop manual. I got them off of ebay. Please advise on the chart. Thanks

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      • #33
        Help With Lark

        Hi,

        Thanks for the reply. After some thought I have become a little leery of 'us guys' doing this. With all the trouble you have had you certainly deserve a break. I am wondering if that somehow you shouldn't
        get this done professionally. It would not be good if someone who did not know what they were doing would goof something up for you. I will ask around to see what others think. I'll get back to you.

        Jim R.
        sigpic

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        • #34
          Sorry Eric, but it is summertime and I am busy with outside chores and repairing the junk that I have. I think you can handle this yourself provided that you get advice from the experts here on the forum, have a shop manual and photograph things well before disassembly. If all else fails, I know of a nice 1960 convert in Buffalo for referencing.
          sigpic
          In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by 58PackardWagon View Post
            Eric do you have a color wiring guide for your car? I know I have one for a 58 Packard and one for a 63 Lark, but do not think they will work for your car. Maybe I am slow or maybe to scared, but the two that I have done took me the whole day. I checked everything twice before starting. These charts are not in the shop manual. I got them off of ebay. Please advise on the chart. Thanks
            What I have is what's in the shop manual. It does reference each circuit number and then tell what color it's supposed to be. Flipping back and forth between the wiring diagram and this color chart could work. I guess I am trying to figure out where to actually start. I don't want to just rip the old one out and have nothing to reference.

            If you combine the two, I guess that's what this is:
            http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-60-Stud...item564b2c4e5a

            So, you are saying this would be worth my investment to buy?

            The dash part is what's worrying me the most. Sometimes, that a jungle with what people have modified over the years. I hate dealing with the old brittle stuff because as soon as you move it, it breaks, but if you don't touch it, it works for years longer.

            I will work on my "golf acquaintance" and see if I can guilt him into helping me. He said the most important thing is to figure out where is started, and he can do it easily. But, it's a giant melted mess and I don't see how this will help or matter since the whole harness needs to be replaced.

            I just need to suck it up and spend some hours figuring it out. Thanks, guys. Here's to Colorado 2013! (Maybe even Labor Day 2012?)
            Last edited by gohdes; 07-09-2012, 08:37 PM.

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            • #36
              I went hunting and found the ebay sheet for my 58's. I have to admit they do help. The type on ebay that you linked are what I am talking about. For as little as they cost, they are worth it. This job, I can assure you (in my opinion) is a two person job. One technical person who can flip pages back and forth and one who can physically work in odd positions for extended periods of time and who is a good listener and communicator. Don't forget to remove the front seat. It makes it a whole lot easier. Damn I would love to help but I have projects coming out of my eyeballs and am working a ton of hours. I would have no hesitation in doing it....and have. Just be very patient and take your time. There are a couple of guys who reproduce these. Go with one who belongs to the club and knows what they are doing and get "all" of the wiring. If you are going to do it, do it right. It only cost a few dollars more for everything verses just the main harness. Also select someone who makes a correct match in terms of colors. As for a couple of other points, get a new generator, voltage regulator, silonoid, fuses and battery cables. Also I typically replace all of the interior light bulbs at this time. And while you have the fuses out, clean-up the fuse holder with a tooth brush. Being that you are not saving or reusing the old harness, cut it at the firewall. I leave about 4 to 6 inches of old wire on each connection. I only use them as reference material. They are not the gospel. A few times I have found crossed wires to the ignition, lights, etc. Not to mention this might offer some insight on why you are replacing this in the first place. GO SLOW and it will all come together. If you decide to wait until this winter, I can help. After my leaves are cleaned up I get a break on the weekends. If you have any questions, just give me a call 612-five zero eight-3518

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              • #37
                Would it not be easier to remove the dash, lay it face down on the front seat and then replace the harness? I wonder how it was done at the factory?
                sigpic
                In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Milaca View Post
                  Would it not be easier to remove the dash
                  I was assuming I would have to pull it out at least partway........hmmmmm.
                  I ordered the larger color wiring schematic from ebay. Something I could have made myself if I took the time, but oh well.

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                  • #39
                    I never removed the dashes on the two that i did. I currently have a dash out on the 63 R2 Lark that i am working on and we are going to install it prior to doing the harness. The dash is a whole other animal with alignment to the window, side fittings and steering column alignment. I would not pull it unless i had to or like the above mentioned current project, it was pulled for a ground up paint and restoration.

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                    • #40
                      I'll throw my 2 cents in. I'd get the harness from Studerbakers West. I've done the wireing on both a 60 convertible(built for my oldest daughter) and 63 Lark(in family since new). I'd purchased a whole 60 dash from Tom Karkewicz and bought a 63 dash at the 95 Detroit Nationals. After painting, I did a wire for wire change before installing. I did the same on my 63 Lark. It does sound intimadating to remove the dash,but isn't as bad as it sounds. There are 4 screws along the windshied underneath, a bolt at each side, disconnect the vent and heat cables, and disconnecting the "U" bracket from the column. Another approach is to remove the 4 screws that hold the instument cluster and pull it towards ya, drop the ignition switch, light, wiper amd heater fan swtiches to change wires. Verify all is correct then cut it at the firewall. Pull the new harness into engine compartment and do the wire for wire change. I also suggest removing the seat. The shop manual is all ya really need. I want all to understand, this is my opinion and the methods I've used on a number of Studebakers and one Hudson and am trying to encourage and help. If I can do it, anyone can. Wish I was closer, I'd come do it. Pay expenses and I'll travel. I'm in SE Michigan.
                      Kim

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                      • #41
                        Hi,
                        I started the re-wiring process today, and have a couple questions:

                        1. on the voltage regulator, where do you have your ground wire grounded to? According to the directions that came with my new one, it says to ground it to the grommet with the brass insert. So, it's directly under the screw on the top left mount where it is touching the bar like it shows it Fig. 1 (see scan on instructions)

                        2. from the Coil + screw, there is a pink wire (#22) that says "1.52 ohm resistance" that goes to the ignition switch. (see scan of wiring diagram) Is this an inline thing I have to splice into the wire? And actually, the harness did not have this pink wire. My old wiring did have a pink wire, but I saw nothing along the wire. What does this mean?

                        3. Where do I add an in-line fuse to keep future electrical fires from happening?

                        Thanks All!
                        Eric Gohdes
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by gohdes; 07-15-2012, 02:49 PM.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by 52 Ragtop View Post
                          I put a fuseable link on my Avanti, from the battery side of the solenoid, to the main lead on the harness. IF I have a short, "hopefully" the link will get smoked, and not my Avanti.

                          Jim
                          Would that be the larger black wire under the battery wire on the starter selenoid?
                          and what amp fuse? 15?
                          Last edited by gohdes; 07-16-2012, 09:11 AM.

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