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Newbie (1951 Champion) Questions -- Brakes

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  • #31
    to bypass the hill holder, just get a piece of brake line tubing with both ends and two female/female adapters. Connect the brake line that originally went IN to the hill holder to the new brake line. Connect the other end of the new brake line to the brake like that originally came OUT of the hill holder and bleed, bleed, bleed the brake lines.

    On the overdrive, since it is a 33% reduction, you can go 45 in direct or 67 1/2 in overdrive for the same engine speed.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

    Comment


    • #32
      Great news from the CR Studebaker front. Got her back last week and have essentially driven it every moment since.

      Midas did a great job with the help of SDCf's recommended guru, Al Meeker. Talked to Al a bunch and then got him involved with Midas and he pointed them in the right direction. Al then invited me to the SDC meeting last weekend. It was a lot of fun. Was driving downtown CR two days later and noticed someone was following me and was waiting while I parallel parked -- it was Al stalking what he thought was a new Studebaker driver. Kind of funny.

      Thanks for the recommendation, Bob @ candbstudebakers.

      The most common comment I get from people is that "I used to have a ....." or "Whose car is this? This is not your car..." Last night a man came up and insisted that I must have borrowed it from someone or that I had inherited it from my grandmother. Either I look younger than I think or people aren't used to seeing 30-somethings in 60-something cars. It's such a great car. Thanks for all the comments on here, it was a great help.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by tviner View Post

        The most common comment I get from people is that "I used to have a ....." or "Whose car is this? This is not your car..." Last night a man came up and insisted that I must have borrowed it from someone or that I had inherited it from my grandmother. Either I look younger than I think or people aren't used to seeing 30-somethings in 60-something cars. It's such a great car. Thanks for all the comments on here, it was a great help.
        Congrats! I know the feeling. I'm 22 and take care of a pretty nice '51 Champion coupe for a friend. Every time I take it out, someone always asks "Where'd you find that?" I always reply with "Oh, I bought it new." It leaves them scratching their head for a minute.

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        • #34
          Worst sound I have heard yet -- speedometer cable going out. What is the best way to fix this issue? New cable?

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          • #35
            You MIGHT get by with lubricating it. But FIRST.... on the back of the speedometer - just above where the cable attaches - there's a tiny hole that likely hasn't seen any oil it's there to receive since the car was built! A drop or two of 3-1 oil might stop the racket. If that don't get it, you disconnect the speedo cable housing and extract the cable. Then you lube it with some graphite (auto store available) , Slide it back in and twiddle it until the far end re-engages the drive gear in the tranny. Reconnect it to the Speedo and you're good to go. Of course, IF the cable should be frayed or kinked when you get it out, you'll have to get a replacment from a Stude parts vendor.
            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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            • #36
              Great tips. I will have to try to identify the cable. I have the shop manual but still had trouble -- any additional thoughts? Mechanic?

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              • #37
                Now that you are a proud Studebaker owner, the next step is to learn to do some of these little things for yourself. Lubricating the speedometer is a good way to start. The chassis parts manual shows all of these parts in detail.

                Disconnect the battery cable (you do not want to start an electrical fire in your new baby) and cover the drivers side floor of the car with newspapers.

                Try oiling the hole first, like Roscoe says. the hole is on the body of the speedometer, right where the cable plugs in. You cannot see it as it is on the top and you are looking up from the bottom, but it is there. fill it with a few drops, let it soak in an hour or so, and fill it again.

                If that does not quiet the speedometer, you can lube the cable.

                The speedometer cable is the flexible silver colored metal one that goes into the back of the speedometer right where the speedometer needle rotates. It's held in with a knurled nut that you can remove with your fingers if you are lucky, or with a pair of pliers. It is a rotating compressed spring-like looking thing that rotates inside of an outer sheathing. It's construction is similar to the brake cable on a bicycle in that the center moves in relation to the jacket, but is designed to rotate rather than push-pull. It is not an electrical cable.

                Again Disconnect the battery cable and cover the drivers side floor of the car with newspapers. Disconnect the knurled nut and pull the cable out of the back of the speedometer. Once you get it free, you can pull the center/core out of it. This is where the newspapers come in. Wipe the cable center down with a rag, mark with a magic marker WHICH END IS THE BOTTOM AND WHICH IS THE TOP and inspect it for kinks and sharp spots. If there are any, you need to buy a new cable core. The Studebaker parts dealers have them. Keep the old one until you get the new one and compare their lengths and ends.

                As you feed the core back into the housing, smear it with a light dose of speedometer cable grease, or any lightweight grease. Chassis grease and petroleum jelly will not work. Do not get any dirt mixed in with the grease. Dirt will jam the thing up.Once you get it all the way in, rotate it by hand like Roscoe said until it clicks into the gear at the transmission and goes all the way in. Then hook it back into the speedometer and rotate it again until the top end goes all the way back in before tightening the nut.

                Do not force anything.

                Do not fret. It is really much simpler to do than it is to explain.

                Now you can drive it and be proud that you did it yourself.
                Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-31-2012, 11:26 AM.
                RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                Comment


                • #38
                  Roy gives good directions. Invest in a little extendable inspection mirror - any GOOD auto parts store should have one available. Won't be expensive - WILL make finding that oil hole alot easier tho!
                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    And a few words of caution. When you are up behind the dash, be gentle! Don't be a bull in a china shop.

                    The wires for the dash instruments and lights are all around you up there. They are brittle from age and will not flex like modern vinyl covered wire. Leave them alone! Do not try to move them out of the way. If you try to bend them or move them, the insulation will crack and fall away.

                    They are OK if you just leave them alone. If you mess with them and crack the insulation, you will have more trouble on your hands than you can fix.
                    Last edited by RadioRoy; 07-31-2012, 01:02 PM.
                    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Got it worked out. Thanks for the tips.

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                      • #41
                        Water Pump.
                        I need some help diagnosing the problem. The water pump went out in early September. Ordered a new one from Studebaker Intl, had it installed. Drove it a few days but anytime I was driving in-town it would get really hot and I could smell the anti-freeze boiling. On the highway it was fine. It was as though it needed high speeds to get the coolant circulating. The guy I had put the new water pump in put a new 13psi cap on it and I thought that was the problem, as the book calls for a 7si cap. Studebaker Intl tells me a 4psi is best, but either a 4 or 7 should work.

                        Question, why is it still overheating? I put the new cap on yesterday hoping that the 13psi cap had failed and that it had no pressure and that the new cap would give it the pressure it needed to circulate while idling parked. Did not work. it overheated in 10 minutes and filled the garage with steam. The radiator is filled with coolant. It has a new waterpump. The fan runs. The fan seems appropriately tight.

                        Any ideas out there in Studebaker land?

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          From this description can we ASSUME that the car did NOT overheat with the old water pump? If that is the case, then something is going on with the new water pump, the installation process of the pump, or the fan belt is too loose.

                          You might have gotten a bad water pump. Sometimes the repro pumps are manufactured incorrectly.

                          There might be some silicone seal or other gasket-like material stuck somewhere it should not be.

                          The mechanic might have flexed the radiator hoses too far and cracked/broken them and they might be closing up internally.

                          Don't drive it on the highway until you get it fixed. It's probably still overheating, but the wind keeps the smell away from your nose.

                          If it was overheating BEFORE you put on the new pump, then there are lots of other things to look at.

                          But the point is, if it was not overheating with the old pump, and started overheating only after the new pump was installed, then something happened during the installation process. That rules out looking at all the standard things, like crud in the water jackets, blown head gasket and stuff like that.

                          It could still be a collapsed radiator hose, as that might have been damaged by over flexing it during the pump installation process.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Roy:

                            I took it to someone who I knew could figure it out and they did, but for the sake of argument here are some addtl pieces:

                            The old waterpump was cracked and before such, there was no overheating. It seemed that after the initial installation the waterpump was itself sound, belt was tight, fan was tight, but thermostat said HOT. It would even overheat just idling.

                            SOO, took it to my guy, told him the deal. He said "give me a few days." He called to say that he thought it was an air bubble / pocket in the system. He put the car vertical (or as close as he could) and flushed it and then refilled it.

                            It now works perfectly -- cool as a cucumber. Weird. I wanted to bring it (the studebaker) on my trip to Indianapolis this weekend and swing by South Bend but to no avail, my wife insists on a car with a child seat for our newborn. Maybe next time.

                            Tom

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by tviner View Post
                              Roy:
                              It now works perfectly -- cool as a cucumber. Weird. I wanted to bring it (the studebaker) on my trip to Indianapolis this weekend and swing by South Bend but to no avail, my wife insists on a car with a child seat for our newborn. Maybe next time.
                              Tom
                              Sounds like somebody may need to install some seatbelts in that Stude -- heh!
                              I just put some in my car, and my 5 year old is really enjoying riding in her "Studey"
                              sigpic

                              1950 Commander Starlight Coupe
                              Regal Deluxe Trim
                              Automatic transmission
                              46k original miles, 4th Owner

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                              • #45
                                @deco_droid. I don't know if I could handle seatbelts in there, just doesn't seem right in a way. Would be fun, though.

                                Iowa winters make Studebaker addiction difficult. Anyone out there feel my pain? To cope I have started seeking out more and more obscure details to address. I have started looking for NOS console light, door handle pieces, etc. Kinda fund if you ask me.

                                Anyone wanna enlighten me with other ideas of how to expand my Stude-obsession?

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