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Drivers side front and rear sits lower than pass side.

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  • Drivers side front and rear sits lower than pass side.

    On my 62 R2 lark in my signature. The rear end must be due to weak leaf springs but the front has no leaf springs. It's a couple inches lower. Do I need new leaf springs in the rear or can they be re arched??? And the front must need new coil springs??? I like the stance much better on the pass side.
    John

    62' Deluxe R2 4SPD.

    63' R1 Wagonaire

    57' Transtar 259 punched to 312 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction

    58' 3E6D Stock 4X4

    64' (Studebaker Built) Trailer Toter


  • #2
    'Sounds like you need new springs all the way around, John. Re-arching is generally a waste of time and money; buy new springs.

    It would also be a good idea to have the frame checked for squareness and possible fatigue cracks on the bottom of the frame at the front coil spring pockets, too. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by BobPalma View Post
      'Sounds like you need new springs all the way around, John. Re-arching is generally a waste of time and money; buy new springs.

      It would also be a good idea to have the frame checked for squareness and possible fatigue cracks on the bottom of the frame at the front coil spring pockets, too. BP
      As Bob stated.
      --------------------------------------

      Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

      Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

      "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

      Comment


      • #4
        My 64 Hawk sits the same way, wating on my new rear leaf springs from SI, but I know I will be doing the front coils next. Good luck with you car.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by BobPalma View Post
          'Sounds like you need new springs all the way around, John. Re-arching is generally a waste of time and money; buy new springs.

          It would also be a good idea to have the frame checked for squareness and possible fatigue cracks on the bottom of the frame at the front coil spring pockets, too. BP
          Does SI have all the leaf and coil springs or should I just check a local suspension shop?
          John

          62' Deluxe R2 4SPD.

          63' R1 Wagonaire

          57' Transtar 259 punched to 312 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction

          58' 3E6D Stock 4X4

          64' (Studebaker Built) Trailer Toter

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 289stude View Post
            Does SI have all the leaf and coil springs or should I just check a local suspension shop?
            I looked at my catalog and SI does have what you need, but be prepared to spend some money, new leaf springs $575.00 a pair, same price I spent for my Hawk springs.

            Comment


            • #7
              springs ?

              Bob, why the condemnation of re-arching springs? Having the rears re arched as a matching set has been successful for decades, at 20% of the cost of new springs.

              Comment


              • #8
                ...well you could always swap left springs for right, eventually it'll even out... ;-)

                Ken

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by oldguy View Post
                  Bob, why the condemnation of re-arching springs? Having the rears re arched as a matching set has been successful for decades, at 20% of the cost of new springs.
                  To ensure future non-sagging, I replaced my lark springs with heavy duty lark springs (the ones from taxi cabs, police cars, etc.) from Dave Thibault.
                  I think I paid about $200 each plus shipping. It really brought it up to a nice stance.
                  See the attached two pictures before & after leaf springs.

                  Here's Dave's take:
                  We have made for us, and stock new heavy duty rear springs. They are the ones that were used on Police Cruisers and the heavy duty station wagon. 6 leaf springs. Part #1560439. We use them on all the larks, but on the earlier larks they must be replaced in pairs as the center bolt is 1/2 inch farther back on the later spring, so the rear axle is moved back slightly. That is not a problem, Studebaker did it in 1962 to improve the ride a little.
                  Dave Thibeault
                  Studebaker Parts & services
                  13 Nick Lane
                  Maynard, Ma 01754
                  978-897-3158

                  I have heard other people go this route: have an additional leaf made from a truck spring company and add it to the newly re-arched set you have. I have no idea what it would cost for re-arching, but if you want to add the extra leaf, it may be just as well to buy a new set. If you're not adding an extra leaf, maybe re-arching would be significantly cheaper.

                  Below is before & after new HD springs. Notice how much more tire you see on the "after" pic. It feels a lot more level as well, and not driving "uphill" as you sit in it.
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by gohdes; 05-15-2012, 12:09 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by oldguy View Post
                    Bob, why the condemnation of re-arching springs? Having the rears re arched as a matching set has been successful for decades, at 20% of the cost of new springs.
                    OK, Don; if it works for you, go for it.

                    I simply have not had such a positive experience, nor has anyone I know. Nothing more complicated than that; the re-arched springs seem OK for awhile, but fatigue sooner than new ones....and changing them again is a PITA! BP
                    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

                    Ayn Rand:
                    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

                    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK Bob, good rational answer I accept.
                      In reflection, I've only kept those cars a few years. not the lifetime relationships many Stude owners have.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Have had many sets rearched for Studes and brand x. Always have a helper spring installed and on personal car put 35000 miles with no problem at a fraction of the cost.

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