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Need some lark education

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  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    Originally posted by rodnutrandy View Post
    Ok , I went and looked at the Lark, car is in decent shape ,but does need front fenders, and rocker panels, plus drivers floor is badly rusted. Interior is toast, but dash is good . Is a Lark vIII. with running 259 Auto. It is a 2 Dr hardtop. But just looks like more work than I want to tackle. One taillight lens missing, but trunk looks good, hood bent by froze up hinges. Man came down to $1800 ,but I am going to pass. Told all gauges work .It comes with 2 new rocker panels. If anyone else is interested ,contact me or go to Cincinnati Craigs list .
    I don't blame you for passing at that price ($1,800). You would be better off IMHO getting a rustfree body (even if missing its motor/tranny) and paying some $$ to have it shipped to you. Mechanical bits are still relatively to find for Studes but tin..........

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  • rodnutrandy
    replied
    Ok , I went and looked at the Lark, car is in decent shape ,but does need front fenders, and rocker panels, plus drivers floor is badly rusted. Interior is toast, but dash is good . Is a Lark vIII. with running 259 Auto. It is a 2 Dr hardtop. But just looks like more work than I want to tackle. One taillight lens missing, but trunk looks good, hood bent by froze up hinges. Man came down to $1800 ,but I am going to pass. Told all gauges work .It comes with 2 new rocker panels. If anyone else is interested ,contact me or go to Cincinnati Craigs list .

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  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by JRoberts View Post
    My first Studebaker was a 1959 Lark hardtop. Rust is a problem check as advised in earlier posts. I believe rear fenders, doors and door regulators are the same as '59-'60 convertibles. These are really nice looking cars. Good luck with yours.
    For Larks: The hardtops were first for 1959. Convertibles didn't come out until the 1960 model year.

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  • JRoberts
    replied
    My first Studebaker was a 1959 Lark hardtop. Rust is a problem check as advised in earlier posts. I believe rear fenders, doors and door regulators are the same as '59-'60 convertibles. These are really nice looking cars. Good luck with yours.

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Or - if it's set up right, you can tromp the long pedal to the floor when taking off from a stand still and that'll get you a first gear start.

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  • 55 56 PREZ 4D
    replied
    To add to Roscomacaws post :
    If you want 1st gear, shift into and start out in 1st gear then manually shift into drive. Gives full use of the 3 speed auto trans.

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  • studegary
    replied
    Hopefully, it is a really a hardtop. Lately, I have run into a lot of younger people that think that any car with a steel roof is a hardtop. You will know soon. I say this because a two door hardtop is more desireable and therefore worth more than a two door sedan (1960 Lark).

    They are a nice car to drive. I sold my 1959 259 AT hardtop with 27K miles on it. Every year, the guy that I sold it to says that he is going to sell it. It hasn't happened yet. Probably the only real chance of getting it back is to buy it from his estate.

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  • 2r10jim
    replied
    If you get some pictures post them. Always enjoy seeing new Stude finds. I hope it works out for you.

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  • rodnutrandy
    replied
    Thanks for quick answers and the info. I plan to go see it saturday. Will update then

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  • BobPalma
    replied
    1. Rear fenders unbolt.

    2. Transmission is the "regular" Studebaker Flightomatic; no big deal.

    3. Look for structural rust everywhere...or evidence of earlier repairs to same.

    4. Check the frame carefully for salt-expanded pinchwelds along the bottom plate, which may even be rusted away entirely in places if the car is real bad.

    5. As a hardtop, the rear window regulators are weak. Carefully, repeat CAREFULLY try to roll them down, but do not force anything. You may have to push the window(s) rearward the first inch or so to help them along, before they actually start to descend. The "thing" you are checking for is to see if they are already broken.

    6. See if you can drive it, even if just around the yard if the brakes are flat (and they probably are).

    Those are cute Larks. (I drove a 1959 Tahiti Coral Regal Hardtop with Power Kit 259 and Flightomatic to Purdue in 1968 and 1969. Even though it was a ten-year-old central Indiana car, it was in very nice condition.)

    'Hope "yours" checks out OK.

    Let us know! BP

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  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Rear fenders DO unbolt. The trans is essentially a Ford-o-Matic. A 3-spd configured to start in 2nd gear (and hence, cause the unwashed masses to conclude it's really a 2-spd unit). Rust is it's biggest enemy. Floorboards in the front and also the floor of the trunk. Replacement fenders shouldn't be too hard to find (I have a solid pair here in CA that I'd ship via Greyhound for the right price. I even have an NOS pair of rears as well. Price sounds good for a true hardtop (J-body) - if it isn't a rust belt rust bucket.

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  • rodnutrandy
    started a topic Need some lark education

    Need some lark education

    I am going to go look at a 1960 Lark 2dr, hardtop this weekend , unrestored with a running 259 ,auto. , Questions are what to look for, how hard are body parts to find( in Ohio rust belt), Is the automatic a Studebaker trans, and anything else I should be asking . price is $1950 and its been in storage 25 years ( but could have been in a barn so take it for whats its worth. Have not seen car or photos of car.do rear fenders unbolt?
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