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  • Gunslinger
    replied
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    Yes, Royal Purple is a good oil.

    No, I've never found any brand name oil which which in the correct weight wouldn't safely and satisfactorily lubricate and protect a stock Studebaker engine. By any standards our engines are pretty agricultural. In normal driving, they don't put heavy loads on bearings or lifters.

    Maybe, since all major brand oils pass the same certification standards, just buy whatever is on sale at the local FLAPS.

    jack vines

    Absolutely. There's so much misinformation on the net about motor oils and flat tappet engines. From what I've been able to determine from all the information...both good and bad...is that engines such as Studebaker designs are at no real risk. If any Stude engines are it would be the R- engines due to higher valve spring pressures.

    The entire controversy stems from unrelated but concurrent events...the EPA mandating lower ZDDP content in motor oils and substandard camshafts and lifters coming in from offshore. Many cams wiped and engine builders blamed it on the oil. Even then, the problem was pretty much confined to high performance engines with high valve spring pressures. For the most part it occurred more than not during break-in. Once the real problem was recognized and corrected it's really a non-issue but the myths and controversy lives on.

    There's no such thing as a mom and pop oil refinery...the motor oils today are far better than what was available when Studebaker was building cars. If today's motor oils are that bad for older engines, why aren't there old cars constantly blowing their engines? How many that do blow their engines doing it from poor maintenance or are simply worn out and being blamed on today's oils? I remember all the predictions of mass engine failures when unleaded gasoline was phased in...it didn't happen. Those that did were likely from poor maintenance or being worn out anyway.

    If one has a performance engine with high valve spring pressures and can't find motor oil with the necessary ZDDP, a container of STP or similar is all that's required. If you can find motor oils with the ZDDP, then no further additives are necessary.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    Yes, Royal Purple is a good oil.

    No, I've never found any brand name oil which which in the correct weight wouldn't safely and satisfactorily lubricate and protect a stock Studebaker engine. By any standards our engines are pretty agricultural. In normal driving, they don't put heavy loads on bearings or lifters. Maybe, since all major brand oils pass the same certification standards, just buy whatever is on sale at the local FLAPS.jack vines
    "Agricultural" seem like the best descript I have heard in awhile. If we treat them as such, don't overly complicate care & maintenance, and don't expect too much from them, they will run dependably forever.

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  • sweetolbob
    replied
    A lot of good discussion both here, now, previously and all over the internet.

    My feeling in a nutshell. I don't know at what spring pressures, cam lift or other variables that ZDDP is necessary or if it is at all, But I'll tell you that in my flat tappet engines there will be the current oils that I can buy at my FLAPS on sale w/filter and a $10 bottle of ZDDP concentrate.

    With the oil change frequency that most of us have the $10 cost to not provide a data point on camshaft failure is money well spent in my book.

    Bob

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  • Dan White
    replied
    Using premium and/or synthetic oil in the rear is probably a good idea since it is rarely changed. On the other hand the oil in my ’50 Hudson rear and 3 speed trannie is the original from the factory! I use Amsoil in my ’08 Subaru STI as it is a high performance turbo charged engine and runs at high RPMs. I use Delo 15W40 in my Studes and Hudson engines as they are changed more often and do not have the requirements of my Subaru and also has a bit more zinc for the cam. If you are racing or have severe duty where you need the performance then Amsoil or RP is what you should use, but for an occasional driver it is way overkill and again it does nothing to protect your flat tappet cam. I am not saying there is anything wrong with RP, Amsoil, or any other high performance synthetic petroleum products, however it is a good idea to use the right product for the right application and in this case using RP in a Stude or old engine is probably not the best application. Again your money your car.

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  • SilverHawkDan
    replied
    I used the gear oil

    We used the RP gear oil in the trans and differential in the Avanti for the last two years. It made shifting easier and the trans and diff turned over easier after the change to RP. I know that Dave Bloomberg used Amsoil at Bonneville as I got him the deal on it from a fellow hot rodder. In the engine we used Delo 400 diesel grade 15w40 oil. I also use it in the camper 289 that I tow the Avanti with. I noticed that I didn't have any oil wear issues in the Bonneville engines. I have friends who use RP in their race engines and street cars and swear by it. Same with Amsoil. SO there you have my 2 cents.
    Dan

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  • Dan White
    replied

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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    The RP in store was $15qrt... I had found it online for $6qrt. I should have ordered it online. Will be doing so for next time though. I ended up getting Pennzoil High Mileage and a Wix filter. Slowing making some progress. The oil was definitely due for a change. Have no clue when the last one was done... I have a feeling that it was quite some time ago. The PO showed me the dipstick and it was black and said, "not too bad for an old car." errrr what?! lol i did use a zinc additive when I changed the oil.
    Last edited by cultural infidel; 05-04-2012, 07:27 PM.

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  • kamzack
    replied
    Check Lubrication Engineers Web site. They make a 15W40 with a high zinc content, very compatible with flat tappet engines. Also petroleum base, non syn/oil good for high mileage or new and a long drain oil. Phone # 800-537-7683
    Kim

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  • 62champ
    replied
    Since switching to Royal Purple in my brand Xs three years ago - I am a believer. Had lifter clatter on start up when temps got below 20. At the time I was running Mobil 1. One morning when it was about 5 it sounded like there was tin can band under the hood. Next oil change was a week away and decided to bite the bullet and spend the $5 per quart (in 2009) and get the RP. Even when it was -3 last winter I did not hear a peep out of the valve train.

    They offer everything from 0W20 to 20W50. They even have straight weights in 30, 40, and 50. Shop around - even with shipping it is cheaper on-line sometimes. My local FLAPS/speed shop that has been around forever always has it in stock and it goes for less than $6.50 a quart.

    Good luck.

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    I've been running Royal Purple in my R-2 Hawk now for about 8 years. Seems to be fine for me-no oil consumption & performance has stayed steady. When I had to replace the axle in my 93 Ranger I used their gear oil then too. I prefer to buy mine at the local speed shop over Autozone due to wanting them to stay around for the times I need those "special" things.

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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    so the safest bet in the 65 would probably be a 10w30 or 15w40?

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  • stevo5671
    replied
    I use regular 10W 40 in the power hawk, synthetic blend 5w 40 in my 04 Pacifica, and full synthetic 5w 30 in my 07 Audi. I have heard that running synthetic in cars that have not previously used synthetic can cause/worsen oil leaks. The oil doesn't actually cause leaks, but the extra detergents can free up "crud" that might be slowing down previous leaks making them seem worse. However, we all know that Studebakers hardly ever leak oil
    Last edited by stevo5671; 04-25-2012, 06:31 PM. Reason: bad spelling

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Yes, Royal Purple is a good oil.

    No, I've never found any brand name oil which which in the correct weight wouldn't safely and satisfactorily lubricate and protect a stock Studebaker engine. By any standards our engines are pretty agricultural. In normal driving, they don't put heavy loads on bearings or lifters.

    Maybe, since all major brand oils pass the same certification standards, just buy whatever is on sale at the local FLAPS.

    jack vines
    Last edited by PackardV8; 04-25-2012, 07:56 AM.

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  • 63larkr1
    replied

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  • cultural infidel
    replied
    Thank you for the info fellas. I guess that I should have left it at just Royal Purple in general. not specifically the 5w-30. I know that they offer 10w and 15w as well. I had found RP online for $5-6qt which isnt horrible.

    That being said, there are a lot of higher mileage oils out there, any worth a damn?

    Never heard of Rotella T. One of my buddies has used Amsoil religiously over the years. So he is pushing that.

    The engine in the 65 is supposedly the original and has quite a few miles on it. Trying to make it last as long as possible.
    Last edited by cultural infidel; 04-25-2012, 06:14 AM.

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