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50 commander restoration

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  • 50 commander restoration

    I am currently restoring a 50 commander 2 door. Where do I find the following parts and services?All of the necessary rubber..door,trunk, window seals,suspension bushings, body mount pads, hood bumpers etc.; door/window channels and weather strips; climatiser; complete wiring harness; steering wheel rebuild or repair; gas tank refurbishing; should the brake lines be cleaned out and if so with what?; is it necessary to remove the sheet metal covers on the rear leaf springs for any cleaning or greasing? Thanks for the help, Bob.

  • #2
    Welcome!

    The first thing to do is to join the Studebaker Drivers Club if you haven't done so already. You can do it here...

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...ere-right-now!

    Next, join your local chapter...

    http://studebakerdriversclub.com/localchapters.asp

    Doing so will get you the SDC monthly publication, Turning Wheels, and the local chapter news letter...but most important, it will get your Studebaker network kickstarted to make it easier to find parts and advice.


    Here is a list of some of the Studebaker parts vendors...

    http://www.studebakervendors.com/

    Also lots of parts show up here...

    http://www.studebakerswap.com/swap/swap.php

    Stick around here and ask your specific questions. I'm sure you will get help.
    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      Remove the rubber brake lines and toss them in the dumpster - get new ones. Flush the metal lines with alcohol and blow them out with air. Do a search of this site for the Hill Holder brake device if your car is so fitted (quite likely) for instructions on dealing with it.
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        Use denatured alcohol to flush the brake lines out and blow dry with air. Rubbing alcohol contains a lot of water!

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        • #5
          The car is 62 years old and has been filled with dot 3 brake fluid that absorbs moisture out of the air, and condenses it in the metal lines. Do you really want to trust your life on something that looks ok on the out side, but may be totally rusted on the inside?
          Replace the lines, and then you'll know what you have.
          The bushings for the front suspension are steel. You can get most parts from SI (studebaker international), but other vendors should have most parts too.
          I would definately replace the spring bushings too(including shackle bushings) . I would guess that the springs would be ok, if it sits level, just keep them greased.
          Shrock Brothers(in Pa) can recast your steering wheel.
          Studebaker west has replacement wireing,but it is vinyl, and perhaps a but skinny for 6 volts.
          Y & Z Yesteryear parts in California does a good job, and so does Rhode Island Wireing.
          Wyo-tech is right there in Laramie, perhaps they would be interested in using your vehicle as a teaching aid?
          You may be lucky with the gas tank in such a dry climate, perhaps a radiator shop can boil it out for you.
          Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-318-8948
          http://bezautoalchemy.com


          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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          • #6
            Robert,
            Welcome to our forum.
            The questions you are asking would seem quickly addressed with receipt of the monthly magazine TURNING WHEELS with membership in the Studebaker Drivers Club. It's just all right there. If it could be made any easier, it would be illegal.
            http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/joinsdc.asp
            Brad Johnson,
            SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
            '56 Sky Hawk in process

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