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Need Everyones Help!!! 49' Champion with 33,652 origional

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  • Originally posted by aj86 View Post
    still has that little hesitation we you rev it up. I'm thinking it just needs to be ran good.
    I think NOT running these old engine many times does more damage that getting out and stretching their legs.

    If the slight hesitation is immediately when the accelerator is activated, it might be the accelerator pump in the carb - it give the intake a good squirt of gas so there is not a big hesitation after the pedal is pressed.

    Thanks for the updates and it looks like things are moving along...

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    • Its official!!!

      She drives! And drives good. Clutch seems to have great grip, goes straight down the road. She does have ok acceleration but the carb starts to cut out a lot after a few rpm's. Not sure what that is. Thinking carb related but it was completely rebuilt. Here are some pictures after our little drive. First time she has pulled her own weight in 30 years.
      Attached Files

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      • very cool!!!

        probably carb, but maybe electrical - timing, points, etc?
        Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

        '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

        '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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        • Check your vacuum advance diaphragm. Make sure it is working properly. That can cause hesitation on acceleration and if it has a big enough leak, rough running similar to an intake gasket leak.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • It will idle like a kitten with no issue. It's when you rev it up and/or drive it and at a certain point it just cuts out and spudders unless you let off the gas. The stuck valve fix issue definitely helped a lot but it still has something else holding it back from running at its peak.

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            • Points gap can give those kind of symptoms as well.

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              • What is the proper setting for the points?

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                • You need a shop manual. However, even though it's early...I managed to shuffle back to my "Man Bookcase" (where you'll soon discover...after the wedding...some are more suitable for show) and retrieve my 1956 Motors Auto Repair Manual. I didn't see the '48 Studebaker shop manual, so this one will have to suffice.

                  It indicates that breaker point opening (inch) Plus or minus .002 should be set at .020
                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

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                  • I have been thrown a bone. The local studebaker club VP gave me a hand last night to figure out that my points were "floating" causing the car to loose power at higher rpms. The new ones I bought were made without the spring. So, I owe a huge thanks to him, thanks Brian. He knows his stuff. I have 11 days to get her back together and finished. No pressure. Anyways i hope the wedding will be a success with the car. Sounds like there will be several local STUDEY lovers showing up for the drive on our wedding for the surprise for my future wife as an honoring of her father passing in febuary to a 5week battle of cancer. This car that I have been resurrecting was his pride and joy. So hopefully he will see us driving it.

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                    • I'm so glad Brian was able to help. I knew he'd probably be able to save you!
                      ~Matt Connor
                      '59 Lark 2-door

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                      • Thanks for your help as well Matt.

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                        • I don't remember mention of it, but just to be on the safe side you may want to install a flow thru electric fuel pump.
                          At least put it on a manual switch so you can turn it on if needed.
                          Vapor lock.
                          It still could be hot that time of year.
                          South Lompoc Studebaker

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                          • Been following this thread and think it's great you guys are doing this. I didn't own a classic car at the time of our wedding, but would have been a neat thing to do. Best of luck to you.
                            sigpic

                            1950 Commander Starlight Coupe
                            Regal Deluxe Trim
                            Automatic transmission
                            46k original miles, 4th Owner

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                            • In case you haven't taken care of the starter/ swich problem yet, take the switch off the car and go to a NAPA store. Those switches were used on a LOT of tractors and industrial equipment for a lot of years. The differences in them is the length of the stem. You should be able to get new ones with no problem. Also, this type of switch does not use a solenoid or relay, the battery cable goes to one side and the starter cable to the other, there should also be a #10 wire going to the side the battery cable goes to, this supplies power to everything but the starter and horns. Good luck, looks like you're winning the battle!

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                              • I have another switch coming in the next day or so. A man out of st. Louis is giving me some parts to help and then the local VP of the chapter in town is helping us also with some parts to get her ready for the 8th, plus he's the one who was nice enough come out till almost midnight last night and help me figure out that the points I bought new were made wrong. So, big thanks to Brian and everyone who is helping us with parts. Gonna be hard to repay everyone.

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