LOTS of new Studebaker owners Lately: welcome! Post Here

[StudeRich]

/Cut/ So if anyone has any pointers/advice/recommendations on where to start it would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here is a very good place to start learning for all of you that are New to Studes. or Classic Cars:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp

[StudeRich]

Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum Thomas! Sorry it took awhile for us to notice this, this string really does not get hit often enough.

That '61 Lark might be a good start to owning a Good'Ol American Classic!

It will be a bunch better in my opinion, if it is a Lark VIII, (259 c.i.d. V8).
But if it is a Lark VI 170 c.i.d. Overhead Valve Six in repairable Condition, it could also be fun.

Your very FIRST step should be getting the 1959 to 1964 Studebaker Chassis and Body Parts Catalogs, and the Shop Manual for same. The big thick Books are a bit pricey, but the CD Disc with all 3 is very reasonable.

You can PM (Private Message) me for one, or get it at any Studebaker Vendor at:
http://studebakervendors.com

Studebaker Parts are not difficult to find, there are TONS of them in NOS Original New condition available at reasonable prices.

[phrazlspitz]

Hi everyone, so obviously I'm new here and hopefully I'm doing this right. I was recently able find myself a '61 lark four door sedan just kind of rotting away out behind a garage while my grandfather was looking at a trailer. I was lucky enough to be able to buy it and am already enjoying owning my first classic car and my second car ever (I'm 19). It doesn't run, the floors are mostly shot, and the interior is trashed because of the raccoon that was living in it, but for the most part it is all there, and I think in repairable condition( I'm still working on figuring that part out). I'm planning to get it driveable and tinker around with it and use it as an experience builder till I can afford to really restore it or get a nicer stude. So if anyone has any pointers/advice/recommendations on where to start it would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Skip Lackie]

There more info in M-series trucks in chapters 5 and 7 here:
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com...uckHistory.asp

[Frank54]

Moe, cool 2R6 pickup. C cabs are my favorites, especially pre Transtar. 😎

[rcameron]

Thanks Skip it is solid I don't know much about these trucks but I hear they are somewhat "rare" even more so with the wheels and hubcaps that are on it, if anyone has anymore info on it would be greatly appreciated

[Skip Lackie]

Welcome! Looks like a nice solid truck.

[rcameron]

Hello all, also new here and a proud new owner of a 1941 M15 nice solid truck pulled out of the bush on a guys yard close to where I live, just getting started on the resto

[Skip Lackie]

Body-off on the trucks is easy, as the pieces all come off separately and can be painted that way. Just make sure you don't mix up the bolts holding the cab to the frame. All four are different. (In fact, now would be a good time to start soaking them with rust penetrant . . . . . )

[Moe]

Thanks Skip! I do have a parts book on order. It should be here today or tomorrow. I should have several boxes of parts showing up next week to get this thing running and on the road. Plan is to get her driving and just enjoy it the way it is until I finish the two Buicks. Then it will be time for a body off restoration for it.

[Skip Lackie]

Moe-
Welcome to Stude-dom and the forum! Looks like a nice solid truck. I have a 3R6 with 3-spd/OD and they are very nice driving trucks. They have enough horsepower to keep up with traffic, at least back here in the East. There are quite a few active Stude truckers in the PNW, and maybe one of them can help you find a used seat. The same basic seat was used in C-cabs 1949-64, so they are around. I had an extra around here for years until I finally found someone who needed it. I suggest you invest in a copy of the 49-56 truck parts book. They list every part, are very well illustrated (better than the shop manual) and are handy for determining what parts can be interchanged between models. They are available as both reprint and on CD from vendors, and originals come up on ebay all the time.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...s+manual+-fits

[Moe]

New member here!
I recently purchased a 1953 2R a couple of weeks ago. I've always loved the look of the 2R pickups. I've spent my life mostly working on Chevys and Buicks so I don't know a whole lot about Studebakers. My dad owned on in the '70 that we put a Chevy straight six with a powerglide in. I always wanted one for myself to make a mild Resto-mod from. I have looked off and on for a few years, seeing most on Craigslist, several have been nice but just never spoke to me. We just moved to Washington several months ago and I don't have a shop and the garage is totally full of my tools and parts for my '49 Buick Roadmaster Sedanette and '61 Buick Invicta Bubble top. I am waiting on the County for the permit to build the new shop so I haven't bee looking for anything just looking at Craigslist as kind of a car show for me. A couple of weeks ago though, I saw this '53 2R and for some reason it spoke to me. It was a Monday and my next day off was a Friday. I figured if it was still around then, I would go check it out. Thursday evening I called and he still had it. He said he had gotten calls from all over the country about it and was happy to know someone fairly close was interested in it. I went and checked it out the next morning and found it to be in pretty good shape. The only real rust in it is in the cab corners which are not a big deal. We struck up a deal and trailered it back home. When I looked at the title after getting home, Yes, I know I should have checked it before I paid for it, I noticed that it was titled with the engine number and it didn't look like what I expected. I did a little research in the previous days and found that the engine numbers were supposed to start with 1RXXX. This one said 6RXXX. I thought "What? Wait! NO WAY! I checked the VIN tag and sure enough it said model 2R6-12!! Happy day!!! Then to top it all off when I crawled under it I found it had an overdrive transmission! So I ended up with a 2R6 with overdrive and less than 57K original miles on it. It needs a good going over but I now intend to keep it stock. No resto-mod for this one. One thing I really need to find though is an original seat for it. Someone in the past has put what appears to be seat springs out of an AD Chevy pickup. It will get me going but I want the right ones in it.

So, I guess by now I need to post pics...

[StudeRich]

/Cut/To start. here are the numbers... under the hood b2V-Kb 6993. Inside driver's door: 62V-32127 (i dont know if the 1 is the number 1 or the letter I)...engine P91179. Another big question I have; what I would consider the ground is red, and the hot(going to a solenoid) is black. Is that normal? Regards, Foster

Welcome Foster to the SDC and to the SDC Forum, you can Join the Club from our Home Page.
Your Serial Number that SHOULD be on your Title is actually 62V-32127 because Studebaker stamped 1's as "I 's", and it is a Sequential NUMBER of all V8 1962 Studes. Larks & Hawks built for that Year Model.

The Plate on the Firewall is the Body Tag, it only I.D.'s it as a '62 Hawk and within that Hawk Body Type: 62V-K6 it is Body #6993 the 6993rd. BODY built on the Body Line.
There is no connection as to which Body went onto which Frame, so the Serial & Body Numbers are not in sequence.

Yes, the 6's and 9's are shaped similar to a "b".
The "P" as first digit on the Engine Number indicates a 289 c.i.d. Engine, Standard in all U.S. built GT Hawks.

You can Order/Purchase your Production Order using it's Serial Number to get ALL the details like; where delivered to, date ordered, date built, original Key Numbers, Equipment and Accessories, Interior and Exterior Colors etc.

The Studebaker National Museum in South Bend, IN has these at:

https://www.studebakermuseum.org/sto...duction-orders

[Adk46]

Thanks for the warm welcome. My car has the six. Automatic. Arrived as a non-mover. I should start a thread to cover this project, and solicit advice. But we've already taken apart the rear seat and we're preparing to re-upholster them - practice for doing the front seat. Removed the gas tank, got the sender unit going (DeoxIT), put it back in, new soft fuel lines. Almost runs, but now have the carburetor apart (float definitely maladjusted) , ordered spark plugs, etc. Gotta order floor pans. I'm nervous about repairing the area at the front base of the left opening. There's a guy across the lake I might ask to do the tricky bits.

So, everyone's gone to Mansfield? I used to go there for other reasons in the 1990's . I run a gathering myself for Porsche 928 owners here in northern New York, in the Adirondack Mountains. There's nothing like car people! I'm a small, opportunistic collector - most similar to the Lark is a Bugeye Sprite. Not that similar, I guess, but reasonably simple compared to German over-engineering, thank goodness.

[showbizkid]

I'll get it to go and stop, and close off the Flintstone stuff. Nancy will make the inside more ... sanitary. It may never be pretty, but we'll save it and have some fun doing it.

Curt, welcome from a fellow '63 owner! We are kind of the dark horses of the Lark universe You will have fun working on your new ride, I think. Looks like you have a solid Regal model there. V8 or OHV 6?

P.S.: Need tail lights...

You can order 'em online from many Studebaker vendors. See the link at the top of the Sale / Want / Found Cars board for a web page with a listing of many. Chuck Collins of Studebakerparts.com manufactures these lenses; you can get them individually or by the set for a reasonable price - as well as the lamp housings and gaskets if you need them (and you might!)

Welcome to the Forum!