LOTS of new Studebaker owners Lately: welcome! Post Here

[PNW_63_Champ]

Thanks Studerich. The heater box needs work, as the truck has been sitting since 1990. The fiberglass is shot and I just got the valve unstuck. I bypassed the core to get the truck running. Water pump should come in today along with a shop manual. I was pleased that the engine runs, but there is so much to do. The driveshaft splines are seized/rusted together, but it's a little wet to be getting under the truck in the backyard. I'll take the shaft out soon so I can check the clutch, but all the wheel cylinders will probably need rebuilding. Baby steps.

[StudeRich]

Hi, Good to see another Northwesterner here!

That looks like a Good Project Truck.

I THINK I noticed one of my "Pet Peeves" that someone did incorrectly on your Truck, it is hard to see in the Engine view but it looks like they connected the "Hot" input Heater Hose (the UPPER one) to the Heater Core instead of the Control Valve. If so, you can never turn the Heat OFF.

We have all of the available New & Used Studebaker Parts, Everything Mechanical and some Body Parts here in Washington just over the "Hill", closer to you than most.

[Skip Lackie]

Welcome back. Sounds like a fun project, and you have the skills to pull it off. The left-had threads on the left side were very common at one time, and are still used on some big trucks today. The rotation of the wheels can tend to loosen right hand lug nuts on the left hand side.

[PNW_63_Champ]

Hello, I'm new to the group after about 25 years. I was a member back in the 1990's. I used to have a 51 2R5 from 1986-1994. It's a long story, but I repowered it, changing the old flathead to an Iron Duke (yeah, yeah, I know, but I like those engines. I have an 83 Citation coupe as a daily driver...). I returned to the fold this january, wanting a project for my coming retirement. I bought a 63 Champ 8E7 from a local enthusiast. The truck had been sitting and was last registered in 1990. It is quite rusty, but has a 259 2V, three speed with overdrive, and the old Dodge bed. The floors are toast, and some rust in the doors and fenders. The good news is that I have a wirefeed welder and a bunch of spare parts. I just have to learn how to use the welder after doing most of my welding with a stick.

I told the seller that I would buy it if the engine turned over. Well it did, and the first thing I did after I got it home was remove the plugs and shoot some sea foam in the cylinders. I let it sit for a couple of weeks while I rebuilt the carburetor and distributor.

I got new ignition components, removed the plugs again and shot some PB Blaster in there.

I have a lot of work to do, but I'm pretty confident that the engine is OK.

I primed the oil pump and blew the solvents out of the cylinders. Sprayed some fogging oil and turned it over again. I installed the distributor (Autolite) and gave it a shot of ether, and it fired right up. I'm waiting for a water pump, so I haven't been running it much. It does run on a gravity tank, as the fuel pump is probably shot, and the condition of the fuel tank is unknown.

The engine sounds okay with no apparent knocks, though it is a louder machine than what I'm used to. I did not see any smoke either. I had to fabricate a temporary exhaust system so I can run it in the backyard and get it to a muffler shop this summer.

I took the driveline off to get it home on a tow dolly, but the splines were seized, so I haven't tried putting it in gear yet. The throttle linkage needs some work, as does the charging system.

The bed cam loaded with LOTS of spare parts: 1). two Lark fenders 2). Lark grille and core support 3). three unknown steering columns (old truck I think) 4). One unknown door with handle 5). two sets of exhaust manifolds 6). three heater cores (one is from a 2R series) 7). five unknown bumpers 8). Champ fender chrome trim 9). 259-289 water pump housing 10) probably some more stuff for trading.

I know I have a lot of work to do, but I'm up to the challenge. I'm starting with the low hanging fruit. The front brakes look good, but the pedal goes to the floor. Looks like the cylinders need rebuilding. I'm going to change the LH threaded lugs on the drivers front wheel. Why did they do that?!

Regards,

TE

[StudeRich]

/Cut/ So if anyone has any pointers/advice/recommendations on where to start it would be appreciated. Thanks!

Here is a very good place to start learning for all of you that are New to Studes. or Classic Cars:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/TechThings2do.asp

[StudeRich]

Welcome to the SDC and to the SDC Forum Thomas! Sorry it took awhile for us to notice this, this string really does not get hit often enough.

That '61 Lark might be a good start to owning a Good'Ol American Classic!

It will be a bunch better in my opinion, if it is a Lark VIII, (259 c.i.d. V8).
But if it is a Lark VI 170 c.i.d. Overhead Valve Six in repairable Condition, it could also be fun.

Your very FIRST step should be getting the 1959 to 1964 Studebaker Chassis and Body Parts Catalogs, and the Shop Manual for same. The big thick Books are a bit pricey, but the CD Disc with all 3 is very reasonable.

You can PM (Private Message) me for one, or get it at any Studebaker Vendor at:
http://studebakervendors.com

Studebaker Parts are not difficult to find, there are TONS of them in NOS Original New condition available at reasonable prices.

[phrazlspitz]

Hi everyone, so obviously I'm new here and hopefully I'm doing this right. I was recently able find myself a '61 lark four door sedan just kind of rotting away out behind a garage while my grandfather was looking at a trailer. I was lucky enough to be able to buy it and am already enjoying owning my first classic car and my second car ever (I'm 19). It doesn't run, the floors are mostly shot, and the interior is trashed because of the raccoon that was living in it, but for the most part it is all there, and I think in repairable condition( I'm still working on figuring that part out). I'm planning to get it driveable and tinker around with it and use it as an experience builder till I can afford to really restore it or get a nicer stude. So if anyone has any pointers/advice/recommendations on where to start it would be appreciated. Thanks!

[Skip Lackie]

There more info in M-series trucks in chapters 5 and 7 here:
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com...uckHistory.asp

[Frank54]

Moe, cool 2R6 pickup. C cabs are my favorites, especially pre Transtar. 😎

[rcameron]

Thanks Skip it is solid I don't know much about these trucks but I hear they are somewhat "rare" even more so with the wheels and hubcaps that are on it, if anyone has anymore info on it would be greatly appreciated

[Skip Lackie]

Welcome! Looks like a nice solid truck.

[rcameron]

Hello all, also new here and a proud new owner of a 1941 M15 nice solid truck pulled out of the bush on a guys yard close to where I live, just getting started on the resto

[Skip Lackie]

Body-off on the trucks is easy, as the pieces all come off separately and can be painted that way. Just make sure you don't mix up the bolts holding the cab to the frame. All four are different. (In fact, now would be a good time to start soaking them with rust penetrant . . . . . )

[Moe]

Thanks Skip! I do have a parts book on order. It should be here today or tomorrow. I should have several boxes of parts showing up next week to get this thing running and on the road. Plan is to get her driving and just enjoy it the way it is until I finish the two Buicks. Then it will be time for a body off restoration for it.

[Skip Lackie]

Moe-
Welcome to Stude-dom and the forum! Looks like a nice solid truck. I have a 3R6 with 3-spd/OD and they are very nice driving trucks. They have enough horsepower to keep up with traffic, at least back here in the East. There are quite a few active Stude truckers in the PNW, and maybe one of them can help you find a used seat. The same basic seat was used in C-cabs 1949-64, so they are around. I had an extra around here for years until I finally found someone who needed it. I suggest you invest in a copy of the 49-56 truck parts book. They list every part, are very well illustrated (better than the shop manual) and are handy for determining what parts can be interchanged between models. They are available as both reprint and on CD from vendors, and originals come up on ebay all the time.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...s+manual+-fits