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R3 Avanti?

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  • #16
    I have seen stress cracks on non power window doors, but I've never seen one broken out like the power regs will do. You guys up north must be strong!!!!! This area was also beefed up by the factory on later cars.
    Jim
    I was STUDEBAKER, when STUDEBAKER wasn't "KOOL".

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    • #17
      To:WCP,---------- I'm interested in Your idea of attaching the midpoint pivot to the regulator frame to relieve stress on the fiberglass. Would You elaborate on that a bit more? Would You weld the pivot base
      and the regulator frame to the strap? Thanks

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      • #18
        No - I wouldn't weld. Simply replace the 3 existing fasteners with ones slightly longer to accommodate the strap thickness. The fibreglass region between regulator and midpoint pivot is placed under tension and compression as the window is moved up and down. It is the compression that causes the inner panel to bow inward towards the car interior. This flexing eventually leads to fracture of the inner part of the fibreglass profile between the door opener remote and pivot. The strap should be stiff enough to resist that flexing.
        When I restored my current Avanti, I re-enforced the door hinge pads with 1/4" thick pieces of fibreglass bonded to the backside of the inner panel where the captive plate cages are mounted. While doing that, I also bonded similar pieces inside the inner panel profile where flex failure usually occurs, to provide additional rigidity between pivot and regulator. Because of that I didn't add the steel straps to this car. This car has power windows and that operate satisfactorily with what I consider usual slight hesitation at mid-point on the up-cycle ( the regulator springs are a bit tired).

        The strap ties the pivot to the door latch remote. I used 2 of the fasteners of the pivot and 1 fastener of the latch remote actuator. I'll try scanning the photo and post it this evening. Since the strap is not painted, it tends to blend in with the door panel fibreglass. Incidentally, this particular repair is on a very very late '64 Avanti with manual windows. You should be able to see the white lines of the fracture of the door inner panel.

        I don't have pictures of the re-enforcement with fibreglass "board" on my own car but I may still have the patterns for the hinge pads and centre re-enforcements.
        Last edited by WCP; 02-02-2012, 09:21 AM. Reason: Corrected Information

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        • #19
          This shows the correct position of the steel strap or bar
          Attached Files

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          • #20
            I had a round headlight '64 that had an issue with the top hinge on the driver's door. It did not have power windows, so I think the weak hinge attachment area was a problem with quite a few of the Avanti's. The door never did lie flush with back of the left front fender. It stuck out about a good quarter of an inch on the upper half of the door. It leaked when it rained and developed a good air leak at high speed. I never did get it fixed during the 3 years I had the car.
            sigpic[SIGPIC]

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            • #21
              To move the upper door hinge in, the 4 fastener locations on the hinge need to be laterally slotted so the position on the cowl can be adjusted inward. The factory used shims on the door pad if the door needed to be moved outward. Slotting the hinges gives a much better means of aligning the door with the fender surface.
              The weak fibreglass at the hinge to door mount pads is common to all Stude Avantis. Avanti Motors at some point began re-enforcing the pad area with fibreglass board, as described previously.

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              • #22
                To: WCP,------------- I wasn't quite getting exactly how that strap should be installed---then You posted a picture of the install, ('one picture says a thousand words'), THANK YOU. I have suitable steel strap and am going to install
                this weekend (have a '63 with p/w).

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