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  • I love it when a plan comes together.

    I posted last week that I had to pay $471 for the VIN verification {I know it is not technically a VIN} and taxes and registration fees....ouch. Then on top of the fees I need to get it weighed for state road taxes since it is a truck. Not a big deal, but, you have to roll it or drive it onto the scale by itself. You can NOT weigh it on a trailer, then weigh the trailer later and subtract to come up with truck weight.

    The task is not difficult except that my truck is apart and up on jack stands. I really want to get it plated and a title in hand before I do too much, obviously a good idea before spending a truck load of money on it only to find out there is some issue.

    Well, the brakes and rim issue is my biggest hang up to getting it back as a roller.

    Huge step forward today. My amazing Local Auto parts store and their star counterman and my friend Doug is a magician. Obviously most Stude parts are no longer in your standard parts catalogs and not likely on most computer catalogs. Yet Doug in his life long career as a parts guy just knows how to find something to interchange and match up. I take him my brake drums and some of my hardware and brakelines and hoses and axle U-bolts and leaf spring centering bolts.......

    On SI the brake hoses for my truck run over $30. I appreciate that they stock Studebaker OE parts and their prices overall are decent. If you are building a Concours car and want it to ba all OE then SI and some of these others NW type companies are awesome.

    I on the other hand I am just building an old ranch truck, daily driver and just want it to run, be safe, and a bit cool. My parts guy Doug finds me Dorman brake lines that look like they could be factory for $16 each. He found me wheel cylinder rebuild kits from a chevy that look like they could be an OE part for $2 each where the SI ones are $12 each. He gave me the C-clips that crimp on to the adjustment studs which hold the brake shoes to the backing plates for free.

    I got a 5 gal bucket of GL-4/GL-5 hypoid gear oil for the rear diff and trans/OD for less than 2 one gallon jugs cost. I also got all of the steel brake lines, a few couplings, a tub of good wheel bearing grease, 4 brake drum seal {cross referenced by measuring the old ones}, all 4 brake drums turned, a roll of gasket material because the rear axle shaft gasket are not available so I need to make them, and lots of other odds and ends all for $273 total with tax, license, destination fees and licensing. {JK}

    Basically almost a complete brake system minus the MC plus a bunch of other goodies for well under $300 I think is a great deal. So now a day or so of reassembly and she will be back on her wheel and ready to get weighed so I can get my plates and pink slip.

    My main things left to get her on the road is to upholster the seat, rewire the harness {pick up my kit by friday} put my 289 back together and bolt it in...then drive this big dog. Might sound like alot to some but really not that bad overall and I am making good strides forward.

    Now if I could just figure out a way to post some pics without using photoSUCKet {bucket} or some other hosting site I can show you guys some cool pics so you can follow along.

  • #2
    Do Not use the GL5 in the transmission. It will destroy any brass in it. Jim

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    • #3
      Originally posted by kmac530 View Post
      Now if I could just figure out a way to post some pics...
      Kelly,
      If you have them saved in your 'puter you should be able to browse and upload expandable thumbnails direct from your "C" drive. If you can plug a camera in as an "E" drive, should be able to load from there as well.
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

      Comment


      • #4
        if you have pics in your "pictures" file on your 'puter, you can post them here. i use it since they come up as thumbnails, and keeps the dial-up folks happy.
        go to submit reply, click "go advanced", then click on the 6th from the right icon . that takes you to a new window then click "select files" find your pics file on your 'puter, then double click the pic(s) you wish to attach. click upload file in the window, and you're done... click submit reply like usual...

        after you have done it one time, it's easy.

        doesn't work in "stove huggers", though...
        Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

        '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

        '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by DieselJim View Post
          Do Not use the GL5 in the transmission. It will destroy any brass in it. Jim
          The stuff I got is GL-4/GL-5 and it insist on the container it is safe. Should I read up on it? Conatct the manufacturer?
          The bucket says it is safe for all GL-4, GL-5 and MT-1 applications and it is 80w-85w-90 weight.

          I had read that before not to use the GL-5 but this says it is safe for all....now you got me scared.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here is some info I found and it has been support on other reading I have been doing:

            http://www.benzworld.org/forums/unim...-oil-plot.html

            According to this, the first GL-5 oils could be corrosive to brass and other yellow metals especially at high temps. But the new GL-5 MT1 oils are NOT harmful to brass syncro's on manual transmissions. I confirmed this on Amzoil, Sta-Lube, and Valvolines websites info.

            I am feeling pretty comfortable using this oil. Does anyone have any Current Actual research showing not to?

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            • #7
              GL-5 is a anti friction agent. The sycronizer works by friction. Using GL-5 will keep the sycronizer from working as it made to. Jim

              Comment


              • #8
                From the drivers seat: I've been using GL-5 in Pete's T-85 and his DANA44 rear for at least the last 16 years. I'm not having to resort to double-clutching yet. The rear axle HAS BEEN howling at about 45MPH for the past 4 or 5 years, but that's cause I let it run outta GL-5 at one time. I've got a better ratio 44 that's waiting to do duty if I ever get around to it.
                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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                • #9
                  I was using 140W GL-4 in my T-9 for a couple of years but lately it was getting quite noisy so I drained it and put in Valvoline High Performance 85W-140 gear oil. It is API Services GL-5, MT-1. I've had it out twice with the new oil and so far no noise. 'Course, the T-9 is a non-syncro transmission so no brass stuff to worry about.
                  Rick
                  Kingman, AZ

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                  • #10
                    I use SIN50 in my transmissions. If Eaton-Fuller will warrenty their truck transmissions 750,000 miles behind 600 HP diesels, my T85 will last forever. Jim

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                    • #11
                      a few shots

                      So I am trying to upload a few shots how Corvanti described. If this works then there is a pic of my truck up on jacks and under an ez-up, then a shot of the valves and the pistons and bores on the motor Mr Roscomacaw donated...it looks perfect inside barely any carbon deposits even.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        looks good from here!
                        the middle pic didn't get much bigger from the thumbnail.
                        i sure do like your truck! keep us posted with pics!
                        Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                        '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                        '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Kelly,
                          SAE 90 API GL-1 Mineral oil is recommended for Studebaker trans and od. It is inexpensive and NAPA stocks it. If for some reason they don’t have it, it can be bought at most farm and tractor dealers. Your SAE gear oil is fine for the rear diff.

                          Dick
                          Mountain Home, AR
                          http://www.livingintheozarks.com/studebaker2.htm

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Testing 1-2-3

                            Testing 1-2- My builder 55 jimmijim
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by jimmijim8; 10-28-2011, 08:03 AM.
                            sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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