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Clearance Issues Chevy V8 in 62 Lark

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  • #16
    So that was because they used a Chevy 6 cylinder as well as the Chevy V8 in 65-66? I thought they only got the V8 from Chevy.

    I'll have to look into that. It seems like it could be pretty straightforward to move a radiator a few inches especially if it's being replaced with non-stock. Thanks.

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    • #17
      Dougie, thats what I have in my 66. A 327 with a t-10 4 speed. I used the stock 65-66 Stude transmission crossmember to the GM trans mount. The trans mount location from the stock Stude was just a bit in front, so I cut a piece from a front bumper of a Jeep CJ & used it to make up the difference, making it all bolt in. That way if I ever wanted to return it back to its original 3 speed o/d it would be easy.
      59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
      60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
      61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
      62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
      62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
      62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
      63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
      63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
      64 Zip Van
      66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
      66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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      • #18
        I have the front frame mounts but I'm still trying to scrounge up a 65-66 trans crossmember. If you know of one, please let me know. Thanks,

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        • #19
          Have you considered an electric water pump and a Walker Radiator/Cooling Components electric fan/shroud.
          I had to move the radiator back on my car. I had clearance issues that I solved with the Walker set up. Total thickness of the unit is only 2.625 inches.

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          • #20
            So you're using both an electric water pump and cooling fans? Is it a street driven car? I was under the inpression that electri water pumps were more for show/racing. Expensive????

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Dougie View Post
              I was just wondering if anyone has ever moved the radiator forward in a Lark to get more clearance for the fan. I'm sitting in my office (should be working) so can't look at the car, but it seems like you could mount a lower, wider radiator like one from a mid-90's Firebird or Camaro, and move it forward. It wouldn't look stock. but then neither will my 327 in the engine bay either. Anyone done anything like this? Can it be done?
              Dougie....Yes I did move the radiator forward on my 62 Daytona.....I have a sbc stroker with a tremec 3550 5 speed behind it......I also have a serpentine belt system installed ......To do it, I got me a roundy round aluminum radiator from my local speed shop and I cut approx 1/4" out of the top panel and fabed new mounts for the top and bottom to move the rad forward and I cleared everything very nicely......The radiator is moved 1/4" forward at the top, and 1/2" forward at the bottom

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              • #22
                Yes, I am using both electric water pump and cooling fan,shroud. The car will be driven on the street. The water pump is a 35-37 gpm pump by CSR. The costs from Summit is $282.00. They can be found cheaper. The fan and shroud costs me $225.00 including shipping. I should mention that I had a Griffin aluminum radiator build for the car. It was built to my measurements, unfortunately, that is the reason it was moved back. I do not know anything about Lark frame dimensions,
                but if you are interested in putting full length headers on your car, Sanderson has headers for many applications. I was able to find a set that fit my car with no modifications.

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                • #23
                  Can you give me any information on the headers? they're a pain as I understand it due to the steering box. Any help there would be appreciated. Thanks,.

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                  • #24
                    The headers that I used are Sanderson C32, sbc, 1 5/8" tube. They also have the same header in a 1 1/2" inch tube, C3 is the part #. They have the same dimensions. They are a center drop design. I originally had block hugger style, but I really wanted full length. I found the Sandersons, looked at their dimensions, and took a shot in the dark that they would fit. I guess I got lucky.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Stephen Davis View Post
                      The headers that I used are Sanderson C32, sbc, 1 5/8" tube. They also have the same header in a 1 1/2" inch tube, C3 is the part #. They have the same dimensions. They are a center drop design. I originally had block hugger style, but I really wanted full length. I found the Sandersons, looked at their dimensions, and took a shot in the dark that they would fit. I guess I got lucky.
                      Stephen,

                      Is your car a Lark, and what year? Those are nice headers, but a little pricey.

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                      • #26
                        My car is a coupe, specifically, a '60 Hawk frame. As I mentioned in a earlier post, I know nothing about Lark frame dimensions. I did do a quick look at frame dimensions between the Lark and the coupe. Width wise, the dimensions appear to be the same, but your Lark is 13 1/2" from front of dash to front wheel centerline, the coupe is 20 1/2" from front of dash to front wheel centerline. The reason that I mentioned the headers is because they are a very compact. they are known to fit many applications with tight fit constraints. Generally speaking, header issues are with side clearance, not length.

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