Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clearance Issues Chevy V8 in 62 Lark

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Clearance Issues Chevy V8 in 62 Lark

    Just sitting here thinking about the small block Chevy V8 into Lark swap I'm going to do, and was wondering about the water pump setup. Until 1968 Chevy used a "short" water pump, so I assume these were also used on the "Chevybakers" in 65-66. The "long" water pump (1.6" longer) was used on all since then and is much more common as far as pulleys, etc.

    Can anyone tell me if using the long water pump will cause a clearance issue with the radiator? Also, what about using a fan clutch? That also adds length. Curious what others have found. Thanks a lot!

  • #2
    the best thing to do is copy what Studebaker did with the Chevy-Bakers. That way, everything is likely to work out and well... work. I believe there might be exhaust clearance issues IIRC.
    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

    Comment


    • #3
      It does help to have a '65-'66 parts car or engine from same.
      I know of lots of Chev. or Stude. McKinnon transplants into earlier Larks and Sedan/Wagon types, even some with brand new GM 350 crate engines, but all of them have the early GM/'65-'66 Studebaker Clutch/Converter housing, engine mounts, water pump, water outlet, ram horn exhaust manifolds, Stude. right side alternator mounts etc, etc.

      That way, you do not have to re-engineer anything, and it works really WELL even with the Flight-O-Matic Borg Warner Trans. Std. or H.D. or Power Shift as used in the Avanti II!
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Doug, I checked on mine and there is 3.25" between the end of the water pump shaft and the radiator or about 3.375" from the flange of the pump with no pulley.

        Comment


        • #5
          On my 66 even with the "short" pump the fan comes really close to the radiator at the bottom blade. Without going out there now I'd guess its less than an inch clearance. The other thing you have to think about is exhaust system clearance to the steering on the left side. If you dont have the "rams horns" manifolds you could go with block hugger headers. Thats what I did.
          59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
          60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
          61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
          62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
          62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
          62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
          63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
          63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
          64 Zip Van
          66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
          66 Cruiser V-8 auto

          Comment


          • #6
            Hello,
            I'm in the process of swapping out a McKinnon 283 with a 1985, 350 Corvette L-98. My '64 Daytona already had the Chevy engine swap. Here is what I encountered:

            1. The Corvette has a rather short water pump. However, it missed by 1/8". I used shim washers under the McKinnon crank pulley. The three outer bolts were shimmed with regular washers, but the center bolt I had to custom cut a large washer on a lathe. It is iffy if the water pump hub can go back the 1/8". So, that is why I opted to move the other pulleys.

            2. The water pump pulley center hole was too small. I had to open it up to 3/4". Additionally the the 4 bolt holes were too close to center. I elongated them to receive the bolts. I'll also have to make similar modifications to the fan. Ultimately I'm going to an electric fan, but for the time being I'll stay mechanical.

            3. I'll likely be grinding 1/8" off the back of the alternator bracket (making the difference up with a washer at the front to move it forward 1/8" also. Not sure on this as I'm not "there" yet.

            So, even with already having the Chevy swap and a short water pump (of the Corvette kind) I still had some alterations. Nothing difficult. I also wanted to mention my fan had about a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" spacer as originally installed.

            The Ramhorn exhaust (center dump) clears well on the passenger side, but on the drivers side it comes very close to the corner of the steering box. It also needs to take an immediate turn to get over the steering link. It's 90 degrees to go under the oil pan (single exhaust) or a twisty/turny thing to go in, then down and out the back as a dual exhaust. The motor mounts can probably be fabricated, but it is going to be easier to fine the correct set.

            Tom
            '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

            Comment


            • #7
              I can't offer any advice myself, but a couple of years ago there was a long thread about installing a SBC in a '63 lark. Maybe some tips there:

              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...-Lark...Update

              Jeff in ND

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the great information. What I'm hearing is that to make this work I need to use the short water pump, which is good to know so I can plan accordingly. I was aware of the challenges with the driver's side exhaust manifolds. Thanks for the help.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I was just wondering if anyone has ever moved the radiator forward in a Lark to get more clearance for the fan. I'm sitting in my office (should be working) so can't look at the car, but it seems like you could mount a lower, wider radiator like one from a mid-90's Firebird or Camaro, and move it forward. It wouldn't look stock. but then neither will my 327 in the engine bay either. Anyone done anything like this? Can it be done?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Seems to me if the Studebaker V8 and physically longer six cylinder motor fits in there, then there should be no real issue with fan to radiator clearance with the Chevy V-8. The Chevy small block V8 is a pretty compact motor. For the driver side exhaust, the are literally hundreds of different combination of exhaust manifolds to try, plus lots of block hugger headers.
                    Pat Dilling
                    Olivehurst, CA
                    Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


                    LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi,Why not make it easier and swap a 289 Stude, punched out to R-3 specks and a dual-quad set-up?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Because I've got a newly built 327 Chevy engine and a Muncie 4 speed in the garage. The Stude engine would be nice too, but I'm too far down the road to change now. I'll just have to settle for the cool looks of my 62 Lark 2 door post. Maybe if I keep the hood closed I might fool the purists.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Dougie,

                          If anyone challenges you on originality, tell them it is an early prototype for the 65-66 models. Very rare indeed!
                          Pat Dilling
                          Olivehurst, CA
                          Custom '53 Starlight aka STU COOL


                          LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=33611

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I like the way you think.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Dougie View Post
                              I was just wondering if anyone has ever moved the radiator forward in a Lark to get more clearance for the fan. I'm sitting in my office (should be working) so can't look at the car, but it seems like you could mount a lower, wider radiator like one from a mid-90's Firebird or Camaro, and move it forward. It wouldn't look stock. but then neither will my 327 in the engine bay either. Anyone done anything like this? Can it be done?
                              that is pretty much exactly what was done on the 65-66 six cylinder models. a little perusal of a 65-66 parts book might help here (probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have if you are considering any kind of Ch*vy swap into a lark type)

                              nate
                              --
                              55 Commander Starlight
                              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X