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Taking rear fenders of 51 Champion 2 dr sedan

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  • Taking rear fenders of 51 Champion 2 dr sedan

    Im taking the rear fenders off of a 51 Champion 2 door sedan. I assume I need to take the rear seat and rear panels off? How are the window cranks held on? With that little funny looking C clip?

  • #2
    It's been a while so someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think all the bolt heads should be accessible from under the fender. The front edges are bolted into nutserts that are part of the body. It should not be necessary to remove the seat or rear trim panels unless the nutserts break loose in the body.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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    • #3
      I know nothing about your question, but I do have a 1965 VW convertable moter cover (the luvered one) It will fit 59 through 65 I think. I bought it new 30 years a go and did not use it. and have long sence got rid all of my VW cars and parts. I paid $250 for it and would sell it for that. sorry about not knowing or talking about studes. I do have two of them though

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      • #4
        I think Rockne is right. I haven't tried taking my fenders off, but I have taken off my inner trim panels. Those "nutserts" go all along the front of the fender, seen here (after a little Rust Bullet application for precaution):
        http://www.bulletshots.net/myStude/r...s/IMG_0348.jpg

        I think the only thing you'll probably have to do is take off your gravel deflectors (not guards) from inside the fenderwell, in order to get to those front bolts.

        Just curious, why are you taking the fenders off?



        1951 Commander Starlight Coupe (aka "Stella")
        www.bulletshots.net
        www.bulletshots.net/blog
        www.alabamastudes.com

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        • #5
          Well, besides replacing the welting (that has bugged me since we got the car in 1974), I have the rear end and gas tank out. As far as I can tell, it only has surface rust on the frame and under side. I want to kill the rust and paint as much as I can get to. So while I have it this far apart, I want to clean the inside of the fenders and paint them. Also make sure there is no rust that is hiding behind them. I have had the car for 32 years and I plan on passing it down to my daughter and son-in-law. They are only 22, so it could be in their hands for a long time and I dont want it to get any worse over time.

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          • #6
            can't help, but I think you have the right idea. I would definitely paint the surface where the welt sits and let it dry thoroughly before reassembly, that can't help but trap water and rust.

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            62 Daytona hardtop
            http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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            • #7
              And for the hell of it, this is me coming in to Florida with the 51 in tow. It was on a 16' double axle trailer with NO brakes. Pulled by my Nissan truck all the way from North of Indianapolis (Kokomo area) to North Central Florida. Everyone said I was nuts, but its what I had at the time. I now have an 18' dual axle WITH brakes and a Ford F150.

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              • #8
                Paint the rear fender welt body color before you begin reassembly.

                Gary L.
                1954 Commander Starliner (restomod)
                1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)
                Gary L.
                Wappinger, NY

                SDC member since 1968
                Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                • #9
                  Naw, I will leave the fender welt black Makes the contours of the body stand out even more. I know its supposed to be painted, but im not trying to make a show car. Just get it back on the road, but try to stop any rust for future generations.

                  On that note, I did take the rear back inside panel off for the hell of it. I wanted to clean out any junk that was down there and spray down any rust if I found any. To my surprise, its pretty much solid behind that panel. SO, I cant get to the nut that holds that splash panel on inside the fender. I tried taking it off, but found that bottom bolt just spins.

                  I've looked under the car to see if there is an access hole, but I dont see any. The only thing I can see is after I have taken out the 3 or 4 little screws that help hold that spash panel in place, I might be able to bend it down and get to the nut, or hope so anyways. I dont want to tear those pieces up, but I might have to. Then either straighten out as best as I can or find others.

                  Anyone with thoughts or ideas ? There always seems to be one bolt or screw that holds me up. [B)]

                  David

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                  • #10
                    Before bending or tearing anything, you could use a nut splitter to remove the nut. They are cheap tools.

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                    • #11
                      cut the head off the bolt with a grinder then with the fender off you may be able to take the "nutserts" to the vise and save them, then weld them back in later.
                      rob

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                      • #12
                        Would a nut splitter work on the bolt head ? If not, I might try to grind it off. I did get the drivers side loose before the nut started spinning. I move the splash pan to the side and found several inches of dirt behind it. No wonder they rust in that area. The splash pan looks to be doing more harm than good. With it off, I could at least spray water up in there and wash it out.

                        http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/vwands...e2.jpg&.src=ph

                        1963 R2 Super Lark
                        1951 Champion 2dr sedan
                        1957 Broadmoore wagon
                        1957 Broadmoore wagon
                        1966 Daytona 2dr sedan
                        1951 1 1/2 ton truck
                        and others, plus various air cooled VW's

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                        • #13
                          I got the drivers side splash pan far enough to the side to get behind it. All I found was LOTS of dirt and no way to get to the nut on the back of that bolt. The fender is attached to a bracket thats held on by this bolt. If I cut the bolt off, I wont have anyway of attaching that bottom section. BAD design by Studebaker. I guess it was ok a long time ago, but not good for me now 55 years later.

                          1963 R2 Super Lark
                          1951 Champion 2dr sedan
                          1957 Broadmoore wagon
                          1957 Broadmoore wagon
                          1966 Daytona 2dr sedan
                          1951 1 1/2 ton truck
                          and others, plus various air cooled VW's

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                          • #14
                            That bolt is also into a nutsert which has obviously broke loose from the body. You may need to grind the head off the bolt, then cut that section to weld a new nut behind it and weld the section back in. I don't know if you can get to it from behind the back seat. Not good news, I know, but that's a common problem with old nutserts. They are in a blind position. I've had to do this several times.
                            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Now, you may want to go ahead and remove the back seat to expose the rest of those nutserts and soak them with PB Blaster. If it enables you to remove the other bolts without breaking the nutserts it will be worth it. A heatwrench (torch) can also aid in fracturing the rust bond in the threads. It's nearly impossible to get up into the fender to cut or grind the boltheads in the front edge.

                              And, when you get to reassembly, run a tap through the nutserts, use new bolts and apply a liberal amount of anti-seize to the threads.
                              "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                              Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                              sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                              Comment

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