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  • 63 Lark Cluster Removal

    While I wait for my garage to be ready for the Lark, I thought I'd remove the cluster and bring it inside to restore. Since I don't yet have a shop manual, I am unsure on how it comes out. I was hoping to find a bunch of phillips head screws on the outside of the cluster but that isn't the case. Can someone enlighten me?
    Thanks!
    Todd

  • #2
    Todd,
    Are you a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club? If not you should.
    In their magazine, Turning Wheels, there's a great section called "The cooperator". In it they answer all kinds of questions.
    Also, you really should purchase the service manual for your car.
    Studebaker International and SASCO sell these valuable books. You won't be sorry you bought the book.
    Sorry I couldn't help you with the removal of your gauge cluster.
    Rog
    '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
    Smithtown,NY
    Recording Secretary, Long Island Studebaker Club

    Comment


    • #3
      It's held by nuts from the inside, not easy to do with the dash in the car. You have the wiring harness to deal with too.

      Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
      64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
      63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
      JDP Maryland

      Comment


      • #4
        JDP is right. I removed the entire dash from my Lark-type when I needed to do cluster work. As he alluded, the wiring harness is a complexity as it doesn't have a connector at the firewall. Therefore, to remove the cluster, you have to disconnect all the wiring from everything under the dash (difficult), or disconnect everything under the hood and feed the harness through the hole in the firewall. (I planned to replace the harness on mine anyway, so I just cut the old one off at the firewall. New ones are available from the major vendors.) Be sure to have Band-Aids on hand when doing work under the dash.

        Good luck,

        MarkC

        MarkC, 64 Y8
        Working in Spokane, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          Wow. I guess the cluster was installed off-line into the dash and the whole unit was installed on the car. I guess that will wait until the car is in the garage. Can ya tell I'm anxious to begin work on it?
          I will be joining the SDC and getting the manual asap.


          Todd

          Comment


          • #6
            Todd, I just did this a month or so ago. I wouldn't pull the dash until you're ready to. As mentioned, look long and hard at your harness. As I'm replacing mine, I didn't worry about cutting it up. Other pains include dropping the column and disconnecting the heater control cables. There are roughly 8 nuts that hold it in place. Four are along the upper edge of the dash, and four at the sides. Good luck.

            ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
            Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

            Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
            Tom - Bradenton, FL

            1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
            1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the tip. I'm not too concerned with the harness as I am thinking of going with a Painless setup. I've heard good things about their wiring system.

              Todd

              Comment


              • #8
                I was going to suggest that, as that is the route I'm going, though I haven't decided on which manufacturer to use. I would mark your harness, at least in the engine compartment. This will allow you to reuse connectors that may otherwise be unavailable. Keep in mind that there's no real fuse panel and that you'll need to find a spot large enough for the panel to mount.

                With mine being a full-on hot rod, I'm looking at installing the fuse panel in the trunk area next to the battery. I figuire if Chrysler can fire up it's new Hemi with this set up (300C), I can get it to work as well. I can't remember if it was Ron Francis or Painless who refuse to make a trunk mount because they feel it's 'unnatural'. Good luck with your project.

                ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

                Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
                Tom - Bradenton, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mark,

                  Forgive me for disagreeing, but advising this fella to remove the whole dash to service a cluster is a bit extreme.
                  What wires there are to the cluster in question are fairly easy to get off the back of said cluster.
                  If it's a '59 thru '62 LArk, there's nothing but push-on connectors and a couple of inst. lite receptacles that just pop out. If it's a later Lark type, it's gonna have the little line nut that attaches to the oil pressure gage and two more substantial electrical terminal nuts that serve the ammeter that these later cars have.
                  Once these connections are undone, each cluster is held to the dash face by two "legs" with nuts holding them to the back of said cluster.
                  Yes, on the later larks it tends to seem a bit crowded behind the dash - but with the exception of the oil pressure tube, nut drivers (the little sockets on handles) can make things easier than trying to swing a wrench or a ratchet amidst the clutter.
                  MOVE # ONE should be to disconnect the battery! That way you won't let the smoke out of any wires by accident![:0]
                  It IS a bit of a pain (literally - in the neck) to lay on the floor of the car and work above your head. Unless you're smart and wear protective eyewear, you're inevitably gonna get some dirt or worse in your peepers[xx(]
                  You'll also want the services of a drop lite or a hands off flashlite as it's gonna be dark up there - even in the daytime.[}]

                  Miscreant at large.

                  1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                  1960 Larkvertible V8
                  1958 Provincial wagon
                  1953 Commander coupe
                  1957 President 2-dr
                  1955 President State
                  1951 Champion Biz cpe
                  1963 Daytona project FS
                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Is this a "stock car"??? Why go the "Painless" route when whole NOS harnesses are available???
                    If it's gonna be custom (different engine, accessories, etc.) - sure painless might be a good alternative. But if I can read between the lines a bit here, sounds to me like you're gonna go back stock with this car - or maybe you'll even do a swap to an alternative Stude engine. Either way, a Stock harness is DESIGNED for your PARTICULAR Stude with all the connectors installed and all the wires measured and configured and whatnot. WHY try to reinvent the wheel here?[?]

                    Miscreant at large.

                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe
                    1957 President 2-dr
                    1955 President State
                    1951 Champion Biz cpe
                    1963 Daytona project FS
                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I agree with Mr. Biggs, if you are able to lay down under the dash, it is no big problem to remove the nuts that holds the leg brackets in place, on the back of the cluster, after the leg brackets have been removed the cluster will just slide out the front of the dash. When I replaced my dash custer, I waited until I had the cluster out of the dash and then removed the wires and oil pressure line from the front side of the dash, after I climbed back out from underneath the dash, the wires were still attached to the cluster and hanging through the opening for the cluster. The biggest problem is being over 50, over weight and climbing under the dash on my back all at the same time.


                      Studebaker Fever
                      60 Lark
                      51 Champion
                      Phil

                      Studebaker Fever
                      60 Lark
                      56 Power Hawk
                      Phil Hendrickson
                      Arnold, Missouri

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The car is a 63 Lark 2dr Sedan. Basically it can best be described as a rust free shell with good glass. The seats are shot, the headliner,packeage tray is long gone, not running 6 cyl/auto. My plans are an engine swap-likely an early 327 Chevy (unless a low mileage 289 Stude becomes available close to home, I fear this will be my most economical route). I am looking at replicating the early super stock drag racers- Cheater slicks, Radir wheels etc. I feel the 63's lend themselves well with this look and I feel it might be a bit more expensive to restore the car to original condition. All my previous cars have been kept original and I'd like to have some fun with this one. As far as wiring goes, I havent had a chance to analyze the condition of my harness but I would excpect it will need replacing as well. I've had the car a week so I havent got my shop manual yet but as far as cost goes, isn't a painless kit cheaper than a NOS harness? The Painless is nice as it has a modern fuse block and labeled wires every few inches which makes diagnosis a little easier. I'll have another go at the cluster. How many "legs" hold the cluster in place? What size are the nuts?
                        While we are in the interior, I found a cool website that sells upholstery "Kits" to fit our cars. The patterns aren't correct but they have that classic look. www.rodinteriors.com
                        They offer complete interior kits- front/rear seats, door panels, headliner, windlace and I believe package tray for $1200.

                        Todd

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Not to stir the pot again, but http://rodinteriors.com uses the same factory I do, but gets $795 for the same covers I sell for half that. (stitched pleats, custom patterns.) I can do all the wild purple, orange and so on too, just not many Studebaker guys want them.

                          Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
                          64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper)
                          63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
                          JDP Maryland

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

                            You'll also want the services of a drop lite or a hands off flashlite as it's gonna be dark up there - even in the daytime.[}]

                            Miscreant at large.
                            Yeah, what Bigg's said. And spidery too. Cause, if I was a spider that's where I'd be
                            ________________________
                            Mark Anderson
                            1965 Cruiser
                            http://home.alltel.net/anderm

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I found the former homes of three spiders buried in my dash and heater assembly. That, and lots and lots of rat turds.

                              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                              Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

                              Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

                              1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
                              Tom - Bradenton, FL

                              1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                              1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

                              Comment

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