Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

OUCH! $$$$$$$$

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Transtar56
    replied
    Im with Gord on this one.
    My 62 Daytona hardtop had 27,000 miles on it when I bought it five years ago.As far as the engine goes,its had eletrical stuff replaced and regular oil changes.
    Still running strong at 68k miles.Burns and leaks a little oil, so what.Its a great car.
    My 60 Hawk was tuned to the teeth with electronic ignition and a new carb,it runs like a bear.
    My 56 Transtars never been apart and it dosen't smoke or use hardly any oil,never had it apart other than to paint the valve covers.
    I drive them all, and drive them hard.
    Id like to do a complete rebuild on a Stude V-8 and plan to do one,but for the fun of driving them,its not needed.
    Diane and I are talking the Hawk on vacation to Newfoundland in a couple of weeks.

    Leave a comment:


  • gordr
    replied
    No offense taken, Bunzard

    My handle here is just my first name merged with my surname initial. I'm Gordon Richmond to the tax department

    I agree with you that one should replace such things as belts, hoses, thermostats etc. on doing a rebuild, since they can come back and bite you later.

    I'll still say that one has to look at their intended use for the car the car and their overall budget, and then decide just how extensive he wants your engine work to be. For many of us, our cars just plain wouldn't get done if we had to rebuild every single part of the engine, and if we carried this philosophy through the rest of the car, we could be $20,000 into a $5000 Lark.

    I'm not afraid of reboring a Stude block, but if it will give satisfactory service with a simple ring and bearing job, I'll do that. I usually will have the rods resized, as that is cheap insurance against having a rod bearing fail. So maybe 3 years down the road, the engine begins to burn oil once more. I've still had 3 years of enjoyment out of that car, and I didn't mortgage the farm to pay for it.

    Lots of us Stude guys are getting older. If we want to get the younger generation into Studes, we are going to have to let them know it can be affordable. You can in fact drive and enjoy a Studebaker without totally restoring it. Fix the obviously broken stuff, and make sure your safety-related components are up to snuff, and then go for it!

    I began driving Studes about the same time the last one rolled off the line. Back then, they were just "old cars", and not really thought of as collector's items at all. I came to appreciate their styling, but even more so, came to appreciate their durability and the general ease of repairing them.

    So if it gives you peace of mind to have dotted every "i" and crossed every "t" when it came to rebuilding your engine, that's fine by me. I just wanted to counter the idea that one HAS to do all that work in order make a moribund Stude V8 into a runner again, when, in most cases, you don't.

    And I get to drive my Stude this weekend. Yee-Haw!

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied


    When it comes to restoring a car, don't go cheapo..Is it expensive, sure it is, depending on how much work you do or don't do yourself. I'm learning on my 63 Avanti. Always wanted one, always wanted to try to restore one. I gave myself a high/low price area on cost to do. Some things like the body & engine, I can't do & will have to look for a pro thats knows Avantis but, no matter what the cost, I'll have something that lots of folks in my area don't. An original Studebaker Avanti And, when its done & I add up the time, cost, labor, etc., I'll have the biggest smile on my face..

    Take your time Dan, research and keep it as original as possible. After all, they don't make em like that anymore. Matter of fact, they don't make em. Good Luck....

    Leave a comment:


  • Bunzard
    replied
    Sorry Gordr, I didn't intentionally mispell your name.

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    [quote]Originally posted by Bunzard

    Studegary, You are right, I could have ordered a NOS crank but by the time it was delivered it might have saved me twenty bucks...and stopped activity for a week at least...and the condition would be unknown until unwrapped. I opted to keep things moving with known quality. Brngs were the same price either way.



    The reason I could afford this car is that the previous owner did a real nice job of restoring EVERYTHING but the engine. It looked great but ran like ___t. When he had to reduce the price to where the engine could be rebuilt and keep the total investment below street value I brought it home. Used a quart of oil in the first 100 miles and then got worse as it warmed up. I plan to keep the car as long as I have a drivers license. When it is finished I will be confident to drive it anywhere and let my non-mechanic wife do the same.



    Bunzard - Thanks for your explanation. The two quotes that I included above explain a lot. I wish you many years of enjoying the car. My father still has his driving license, but he hasn't driven since he was 101.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bandit
    replied
    When I got the 232 rebuilt for the '54 Coupe I had it was no more expensive then the 305 that I got done for the old Chev truck custom ? In fact the 170 flat head six was about the same price too.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bunzard
    replied
    Gordo,
    You must have done a little mental currency conversion to come up with 3 grand. My expense was $2185 USD which would be about three g's CD. I also spent on a balance job, an admitted luxury, and with time tight had all the assembly done ready to install. With only the machine shop work/parts carried home to assemble the figure would have been about $1600 USD. With a rebore and new pistons and renewed heads, I don't think you are going to save much on that price for quality work anywhere unless your cousin runs the machine shop.
    I remember a little sign in a shop that has stuck with me for a long time. It said,"The pain of poor quality remains long after the thrill of a cheap price is gone". I didn't wait until I'm old to get a fun car by choice--I've never had the money. One of the reasons is I made some bad choices to spend half the money and got halfassed jobs when a little patience and self control would have allowed me to have the job done right.

    We are not talking 3 grand if you do your own labor, in fact just about half that, to get a quality rebuild, good as NEW engine. One more curse of being old, wise, and having a few dollars is that I don't risk all the investment in the engine/labor by putting on the old belts, hoses, water pump and thermostat. The failure of any of those can jepordize my safety, fun and investment. Yeah, its another hundred dollars, USD, but my mental image is me and my honey cruising down the road with the windows down on the hardtop (no ac)listening to some old time Rock and Roll smiling at each other as we live out our adolescent dreams as Old Farts. Slapping mosquitos while waiting for a towtruck can quickly squelch the fire of adventure in middle aged wives, a blaze it has take long careful work to start.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danarchy
    replied
    well, I have been messing with my(259)engine and I think it is in for the complete rebuild(as I plan to drive the wheels off it!), I put some Marvels Mystery Oil in the cylinders a few days ago and last night I got the engine to turn(by hand), there is some Harsh metal grinding sound and from what I can tell from the title and past registration slips, the car has 112,000 miles on it.(not 12,000)
    I didn't even have the 289 engine for 48hours and a nice gentleman from Austin (J.Miller) came and bought it.

    Dallas,Texas

    Leave a comment:


  • gordr
    replied
    Bunzard,

    I stand by what I said. Put into the engine what you expect to get out of it. Don't go shopping for a "champagne" engine rebuild if you are on a beer budget.

    Now Dan's engine may not be as badly worn as yours was. Maybe it's worse. He hasn't quoted the measurements his machine shop made, if they made any. But he did complain about the price, which is why I spoke up.

    It's all a matter of allocating one's resources. Should a guy really dump 3 grand into the engine, if it leaves him short when it comes time to do the brakes?

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Leave a comment:


  • studeclunker
    replied
    Dan, do you trust that mechanic? If so, have him tear that engine down and look it over. I don't mean completely, just enough to thoroughly examine it. For another hundred fifty or so it would be worth it. If the motor is out of an Avanti, it's probably a really nice engine.

    Yes I do have several autos to work with. I also have several OD trannys. All of them are in cars. I'm currently deciding which cars to make into parts junkers and which to make into driver junkers, Oops!![:I] I mean classic drivers! Yeah that's right, classic junkers, I mean drivers... Oh never mind....

    Lotsa Larks!
    Studeclunker
    A.K.A: out2lunch

    Leave a comment:


  • Bunzard
    replied
    Studegary, You are right, I could have ordered a NOS crank but by the time it was delivered it might have saved me twenty bucks...and stopped activity for a week at least...and the condition would be unknown until unwrapped. I opted to keep things moving with known quality. Brngs were the same price either way.

    Gordr, As a former technician in an automotive machine shop as part of my nearly sixty years of wrenching on engines, I think your attitude could use an adjustment. A good machinist thinks kind of like a brain surgeon. Most people will be happier and better off if the jog is done correctly the first time. I don't doubt there are scum bags in the trade that will sell whatever they can, that is why the consumer or his advisor needs to know something of the trade. As a rule of thumb I would guess there are not many 40-50 year old Stude engines out there that won't benefit from the services of a good machinist. My engine would not clean up with a .020 overbore. You are not going to have a very satisfactory product by "honing and ringing" a block worn that badly.

    Secondly, at my age it is quite a job pulling an engine/transmission and reinstalling it, especially in a nicely finished restored car. You would not like to hear my comments if it had to be done a second time because a few corners were cut in the shop and there is a fixed cost of reopening an engine, gaskets, fluids etc.

    The reason I could afford this car is that the previous owner did a real nice job of restoring EVERYTHING but the engine. It looked great but ran like ___t. When he had to reduce the price to where the engine could be rebuilt and keep the total investment below street value I brought it home. Used a quart of oil in the first 100 miles and then got worse as it warmed up. I plan to keep the car as long as I have a drivers license. When it is finished I will be confident to drive it anywhere and let my non-mechanic wife do the same.

    I've done my share of "quick and dirty" Chicago overhauls. I've fixed along the road in the snow and with chaff from a farmers combine getting into all the places it shouldn't be, but I'm doing my level best to never do it again. "In the shop and on my schedule" could be my motto. I don't need a "best paint" trophy and if the guy that gets it is stopped along the hwy with the hood up I will stop and help if I can...and probably offer some of these same comments to him while we fix. Thanks for listening.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danarchy
    replied
    #R4987 or R4937, it's hard to tell if the 3rd # is an 8 or a 3???


    Dallas,Texas

    Leave a comment:


  • GTtim
    replied
    If it is an 'R' or 'RS' engine, as a nice, clean reconditioned short block of unknown quality probably $1000 to $1500 wouldn't be too bad. It would depend somewhat on just what the specific cam and pistons are. And of course there will be some wondering as to the quality of the workmanship. You definetly got a deal though.
    Tim K.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danarchy
    replied
    what would the cost of a 289 short block be? I have had 2 inquires about the engine I just picked up, and might just use the extra cash to rebuild my 259. I plan to keep my car as stock as possible and didn't really want to start engine swapping right off the bat!
    any estimates would be appreciated.-Dan

    Dallas,Texas

    Leave a comment:


  • steve_smith54
    replied
    Gentlemen, let's face it, many things in life that are worthwhile are expensive. This is especailly true of hobbies, or perhaps obsessions is the more appropriate word for us car nuts. Consider how the cost of keeping up a nice Studebaker pales in comparison to the cost of a new car today. Look what you get when you spend money on your Studebaker in comparison to the cheaply made, mostly plastic, all-look-alike piece of [expletive deleted] you get when yoou buy a new car today. Okay, I'll crawl back under my soapbox now.
    quote:Originally posted by Danarchy

    started pricing parts for an engine(259)rebuild today and was stunned at some of the HIGH prices! Why is it cheaper to rebuild a 289, then a 259 [?] I am starting to understand why people go GM.

    Dallas,Texas

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X