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  • maxpower1954
    replied
    The best handling, most solid feeling and modern car ever to come out of South Bend - I love my GT Hawk but the Avanti is the choice for a road trip in rainy weather. I've been running gas shocks for years and that makes it even better!

    I bought mine at York in 1993 for 11,000 grand and everthing had been redone, except for paint, which I took care of a year later ( four thousand bucks.) I think it's a keeper.

    Russ Farris

    1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
    1964 Avanti R-1 Auto

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  • Laemmle
    replied
    Boy am I glad my Avanti has hand power:-)

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  • edpjr
    replied
    While definitely problematic, I'd say power window issues rank in the lower quartile of the problems you'll likely have to address with a "cheap" Avanti. Ya got to get a car that will crank, run and stop, first. And you don't want one with rusted troughs or frame. [:0]

    edp/NC
    '63 Avanti
    '66 Commander

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  • okc63avanti
    replied
    quote:Basic rule of thumb for a power window Avantis, convert to manual ASAP. The motors are tiny, draw so much current that they fry the switches and wiring and will bust the doors if they bind.

    JDP Maryland
    There are vendors that sale brand new replacement motors for use with the original Avanti power windows regulators. There is also a set up out there to convert Avanti Power windows to a regulator using a modern GM motor and switch set up.

    John


    63R-2386 under restoration & modification

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    The power window motors (on 63 & 64 Avanti's)are the same as used on Fords of the same era. The switches are exactly the same as 57 T-bird with the exception of the knob being a different color. Perhaps the problems with the motors is due to the door glass on the Avanti being so much larger than others of that time. I do remember seeing that those doors were the longest at that time.

    60 Lark convertible
    61 Champ
    62 Daytona convertible
    63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2)
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan

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  • HawkGT
    replied
    That's interesting advice re. Avanti power windows, JDP, and good advice I'm sure. I've been wishing it were easier to find two manual mechanisms. I have intermittent problems, though I think the switch problem is less common on the A II, and I suspect the relay or wiring. Mine is a 1985 with the switches on the console.

    To answer Gil's original question, I drove an early 70's Corvette once and thought that the car would plum come apart at the railroad crossings. Avantis have never had structural defects like that as long as the hog troughs and frame are not rusty. Studebaker's choice of the Mercedes door latches helped a lot too.

    Gene Nagle
    1963 Hawk R1
    1985 Avanti

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  • JDP
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by 53k

    quote:Originally posted by unimogjohn

    Gil, this looks to be a nice driver quality car. And it is in CA.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...ffc69d7d#v4-35
    Very strange- it appears to have the double power window switches on the passenger door and the single on the driver's.



    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

    Whoever did the homemade door panels might have screwed up, but that's a lot of rewiring. Basic rule of thumb for a power window Avantis, convert to manual ASAP. The motors are tiny, draw so much current that they fry the switches and wiring and will bust the doors if they bind.

    JDP Maryland

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  • JDP
    replied
    I have another cheap Avanti coming in next week but as you know, they are only cheap on the front end of the deal. (63 R1, Powershift, AC, Hope I can afford to save it.)




    JDP Maryland

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  • edpjr
    replied
    Here's some more info from Jan 2010 that may be of interest. This status was before the latest $2K hit to the wallet in the above post. IMHO the best thing you can do if you want a Studebaker Avanti is to find one with low mileage in as near-mint original condition as you can get. And make sure it has the correct engine! Don't buy one that needs paint. It could easily cost $5-7K to strip and paint one. Pay upfront rather than on the backend like me. [B)]

    I started work last June with your basic $15K supercharged Avanti with an R1 engine, good oil press, good frame and troughs,and working S/C and 124K on the odometer. Now in 2010, here's my status. In hindsight, one of the very first things I should've done was to address the fuel tank corrosion that has been a source of constant misery.
    (1) replaced dead battery with new Hi-Amp type
    (2) oil change (Penzoil), filter (Fram) and lube
    (3) gas filters (3 so far)
    (4) replaced exisitng single point Prestolite dist with T-Bow Mallory electronic type (expensive, but marvelous investment)
    (5) replaced spark plugs and plug wires (SI)
    (6) replaced gas cap (had wrong type on it) (Myers)
    (7) replaced wiper arm and blades (finding an original chrome Trico arm was quite an odyssey). Thanks WinchesterHawk!
    (8) got new door lock off eBay(no original keys)
    (9) replaced voltage regulator twice (which also semi-fixed Tach problems)
    (10)replaced multiple and sundry wiring (especially for the PW's)
    (11)replaced rusted Chrome Valve Covers and oil breathers (Bob Helms)
    (12)replaced valve cover and valley pan gaskets (SI)
    (13)R2 carb kit (Helms) and rebuild
    (14)replaced brass PCV valve (eBay)
    (15)replaced all vacuum and fuel hoses
    (16)had intake manifold cooked out to remove carbon build up
    (17)new intake gaskets (SI)
    (18)coolant flush
    (19)trans filter, gasket and fluid (SP)
    (20)Dual master cylinder conversion kit.
    (21)Dist curve kit (Sunset)
    (22)Dash light bulbs
    (23)New factory type rear-view mirror and bracket (eBay)
    (24)Complete strip down to fibreglass, work skim coat bondo, and repaint original turquoise color. (fortunately no evidence of wreck or body damage revealed)
    (25)Replace ALL body emblems and badges (SP & SI)
    (26)Rechrome rear bumper (Jerry Forrester)
    (27)Replace rusted rear bumperettes with rubber type (SI)
    (28)Replace ALL weathertripping and window/windshield rubber (SP & SI)
    (29)Replace headlight bulbs
    (30)Replace headlight rubber gaskets (SI)
    (31)Purchased new door sills (SI) Man, were these puppies expensive!
    (32)Purchased new headliner kit (Myers)
    (33)Replace dented stainless steel pillar cover between door window and vent window on driver's side, (eBay)
    (34)Had gas tank removed, cleaned, refurbed, sealed and restored.
    (35)New gas tank level sending unit (SI)
    (36)Repair rust to rear seat springs from unknown leak
    (37)New starter solenoid
    (38)New parklight lens

    There's more but that's about all I can think of right now. I'm probably eventually going to have to replace the carpet too. The unique combo of a tuned up R1 Engine w/SC runs very powerful, especially with 100 octane gas. The car has tight steering and good brakes so far. I am having some problems getting the doors to close properly after the body work. I'm going to take the body shop the Avanti Repair Manual so they can read the section on "door adjustments" when it goes back in a couple weeks for final touch up. The passenger's side PW window switch is shot and I'm not sure how much the PW relay has left either. The car currently has cheap tires and I could also use a new set of wheel covers. But, over time, I should be able to field a nice, but expensive, car. I sure hope the reliability improves with the refurbed fuel system. Below is a fairly recent picture and some taken along the journey. The adventure continues....


    edp/NC
    '63 Avanti
    '66 Commander

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  • edpjr
    replied
    Here's a link that will interest you:

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=39291

    edp/NC
    '63 Avanti
    '66 Commander

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  • WCP
    replied
    And non-pleated door panel covering but otherwise a nice example of an R1 Avanti.

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  • 53k
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by unimogjohn

    Gil, this looks to be a nice driver quality car. And it is in CA.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...ffc69d7d#v4-35
    Very strange- it appears to have the double power window switches on the passenger door and the single on the driver's.



    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

    Leave a comment:


  • unimogjohn
    replied
    Gil, this looks to be a nice driver quality car. And it is in CA.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...ffc69d7d#v4-35

    John
    1963 Avanti R2
    Marshall, VA

    Leave a comment:


  • JBOYLE
    replied
    I agree with everyone else. Figure out what you want to spend and go from there.

    Like you, I was a Avanti novice.
    Before I bought my car the only one I had driven was a 1987. I wondered why if felt rather numb and modern (it reminded me of a 80s K-Car) then I found out it was based on a Chevy chassis.

    When I bought mine, I was surprised at how modern it was.
    Excellent steering and more than adequate brakes.
    I learned to drive in the every early 70s so a lot of my early driving was in a family 63 Rambler & 69 Ford LTD and various 72 drivers-ed Mercs, so I think I know what 60s-era cars were like... and the [u]Avanti is a better driving car than I really expected</u>.

    I bought mine (a well-equipped R-1) in the mid-teens.
    My intention was to drive it for a long time before restoring it.
    As it worked out, I only drove it for a couple of years before redoing the engine, interior and a glass out repaint. (I only did the engine becasue it was out of the car for the paint and leaking oil like a torpedoed Navy oiler).
    If I had known I was going to do that so soon, I probably would have bought a rougher car to begin with and saved a few thousand in the purchase price.

    But then again, it may not have been in as good of shape as my car proved to be (nice chassis and excellent body only let down by a cheapee respray 10-15 years ago).
    So before you buy a car, think about if you want a driver, a nice driver or perhaps something where the work has already been done.
    When playing with old cars, you pay your money and take your chances.

    63 Avanti R1 2788
    1914 Stutz Bearcat
    (George Barris replica)

    Washington State

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  • bige
    replied
    A quote from my son during a Sunday drive in the 64 " This car rides like a new car". It didn't when I first bought it back in 1995. New rear springs, shocks, all the rubber up front, tightened every bolt that was loose especially the radiator support a bit of sound deadening added when the interior was out, and underhood pad and tight fitting door glass is all it took. Seroiusly though, the frame is very rigid and if all the attached pieces are up to snuff and snug the car is very solid. More so than my '88 which has more shakes over bumps. That Monte Carlo frame is very flexible and the difference between the two cars is noticeable.

    ErnieR



    1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

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