would it be ok to use 4130 steel for my floor boards or should i use something else?
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i was more worried about trying to weld it to the original structure being that it has such a high carbon content. i don't know what the original steel is. what is best a cold rolled mild steel?Kevin Phillips
Jacksonville,AR
53 commander
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i was more worried about trying to weld it to the original structure being that it has such a high carbon content. i don't know what the original steel is. what is best a cold rolled mild steel?Kevin Phillips
Jacksonville,AR
53 commander
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i am just trying to save a little money i work in a sheetmetal shop for aircraft and can form just about anything, as far as my welding it is limited. everything on aircraft is held together with some sort fastener they are not welded. i just didn't know what kind of problems i would run into trying to weld together 2 different types of steel. i do like the idea of the van top that would work great for the flat areas.Kevin Phillips
Jacksonville,AR
53 commander
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i am just trying to save a little money i work in a sheetmetal shop for aircraft and can form just about anything, as far as my welding it is limited. everything on aircraft is held together with some sort fastener they are not welded. i just didn't know what kind of problems i would run into trying to weld together 2 different types of steel. i do like the idea of the van top that would work great for the flat areas.Kevin Phillips
Jacksonville,AR
53 commander
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With floor replacement experience(more than once) I would recommend prefab floors already formed to your car. Believe me making your own is many more houre than you think. If it just a repair patch then that might be different. Good Luck.
1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"
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With floor replacement experience(more than once) I would recommend prefab floors already formed to your car. Believe me making your own is many more houre than you think. If it just a repair patch then that might be different. Good Luck.
1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"
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If your trying to save money like I always do(cause I'm cheap). Build yer own. Especially working in a sheet metal fab shop, I'm sure you know how to make anything. 4130 isn't necessary 1015 or 1020 mild steel would be just fine. The 4130 will weld just fine to your original floor pan. Hope this helps.
Jake
-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://varozza4x4.com
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If your trying to save money like I always do(cause I'm cheap). Build yer own. Especially working in a sheet metal fab shop, I'm sure you know how to make anything. 4130 isn't necessary 1015 or 1020 mild steel would be just fine. The 4130 will weld just fine to your original floor pan. Hope this helps.
Jake
-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://varozza4x4.com
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If you would rather not spend the money on Classic Enterprise's pre-formed floorpans, and want to avoid having to form a lot of reinforcing ribs and stampings, another option is to just use a thicker gauge metal, 18 gauge mild steel sheet is what is used by most hot-rodders to fabricate replacement floor pans, as it is strong enough to be quite resistent to oil-canning and flexing, and is much easier to weld without the warpage and burn through that plagues working with thinner materials. Very little additional weight and being thicker, more resistent to rusting out.
The downside is it will not have all the formed channels that were in the original, so might cost a few points in concours judging, but other than that, how often is anyone going to be crawling around under your car?
I've used the other methods before, but this is what I'll be doing from now on, unless the vehicle is a something really rare and valuable like a '57 Golden Hawk, then I'd definately go with the CE products.
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If you would rather not spend the money on Classic Enterprise's pre-formed floorpans, and want to avoid having to form a lot of reinforcing ribs and stampings, another option is to just use a thicker gauge metal, 18 gauge mild steel sheet is what is used by most hot-rodders to fabricate replacement floor pans, as it is strong enough to be quite resistent to oil-canning and flexing, and is much easier to weld without the warpage and burn through that plagues working with thinner materials. Very little additional weight and being thicker, more resistent to rusting out.
The downside is it will not have all the formed channels that were in the original, so might cost a few points in concours judging, but other than that, how often is anyone going to be crawling around under your car?
I've used the other methods before, but this is what I'll be doing from now on, unless the vehicle is a something really rare and valuable like a '57 Golden Hawk, then I'd definately go with the CE products.
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Hot wheels - ALL current steels and most aluminums are "alloys"!!!
Most all have more than one material in them, which makes them alloyed compositions.
For an answer to the original question.
While it can be welded with the "mig" method, it's best "tig" welded. It cannot be welded with gas...and be a good weld.
Excessive heat will ruin it and cause it to crack prematurely.
Mig welded...it may last a year...depending on how and where you drive. The rougher the road, the quicker the welds and around the welds it will crack.
Best bet...use something else.
I believe it's Classic Indusries...they make many floor pans, plus other things that rust badly.
Mike
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Hot wheels - ALL current steels and most aluminums are "alloys"!!!
Most all have more than one material in them, which makes them alloyed compositions.
For an answer to the original question.
While it can be welded with the "mig" method, it's best "tig" welded. It cannot be welded with gas...and be a good weld.
Excessive heat will ruin it and cause it to crack prematurely.
Mig welded...it may last a year...depending on how and where you drive. The rougher the road, the quicker the welds and around the welds it will crack.
Best bet...use something else.
I believe it's Classic Indusries...they make many floor pans, plus other things that rust badly.
Mike
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