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The 1964 Hawk runs, video to prove it. UPDATE!

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  • The 1964 Hawk runs, video to prove it. UPDATE!

    This is my first ever YouTube video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYTd-MXJs2k
    This is my 1964 Hawk with 70,xxx miles and I finally got the thing running this afternoon but it doesnt sound very good to me yet. The following are things I had to do to get it running.

    First off, I put the battery charger on the brand new looking dead battery that came with the car on the low charger setting (10 amp) but it was still dead after 90 minutes. So I then set the charger on high (40 amp) and after half an hour of this, the battery began to take a charge! I then put it back to 10 amp charge and it continued to respond. I think the battery froze while in cold storage this winter but it seems fine now.

    The fuel tank was disconnected from the fuel pump when I bought the car so I bypassed it and connected a riding lawnmower gas tank to supply gasoline to the fuel pump. I then got the engine to fire once or twice but the clear fuel filter wasnt filling up with gas so I replaced the fuel pump. Another reason for replacing the fuel pump was that I detected a large amount of gasoline in the crankcase and I thought gas may be leaking through the fuel pump. I replaced it with a known working used fuel pump that I had on the shelf. With that done, it still wasnt getting fuel. The lawnmower tank has a filter sock inside the tank and it was getting plugged with sediment and water. I cleaned out the tank but then the fitting began to leak so I found a gas can and converted it into a gas tank by inserting a gasline hose down the spout. Now it got fuel and it fired up but ran really terrible.

    I then checked the plug wires for correct placement and found two wires on the wrong posts. I then fired up the engine and it still ran terrible. I then pulled off the cap and rotor (the previous owner installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor and points) and was about to inspect the point contacts when I realized the points lacked spring tension. There was apparently a helper spring missing as the points had very little closing pressure. I just happened to have a new set of points on the shelf which I then installed. I fired up the engine again, and it still ran terrible.

    I then loosened the lock bolt on the distributor and began to adjust it and found it ran best with it rotated counterclockwise as far as it would go (the vacuum advance hit the intake manifold so I couldnt rotate it any further). At this point, the engine sort of galloped up and down. I determined that the wires were on the cap correctly, but the distributor must be a cog or two off. So, I removed each wire from the cap and moved them counterclockwise one hole. Started the engine up and it ran much better, and I then fine tuned the orientation while it ran. However, it still doesnt sound great.

    I then adjusted the automatic choke (which helped) and adjusted the mixture screws at the front base of the carburetor but I couldnt improve it any. The carb was wet on the outside leading me to believe the float was stuck open too far so I tapped the side of it, but nothing changed. I'm suspicious of this carb anyway being that the accelerator pump doesnt work at all. It appears to have been refurbished in recent years but I think I will install a new kit soon.

    In conclusion, it runs but not great, and the water pump leaks like a canoe made of swiss cheese. While recording the video, I attempted to drive the car outside but the engine stalled each time I moved the auto transmission selector. Next week a rebuilt water pump should be here and I will do more to it then.

    Please watch and listen to the video and give me any suggestions as to how I might get the engine to run better. The exhaust heat riser was rusted stuck, but I freed it up when I was under the car replacing the freeze plugs so I know thats open now. Might it still be ignition issues or is it more likely to be the carburetor? I havent checked compression yet, perhaps it has some stuck valves? After typing all of this, I realize I should have posted this under the Tech section. Sorry.

    [img]http://far
    sigpic
    In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

  • #2
    It clearly is laboring, like it's extremely retarded. If you're 100% sure the distributor is in right and the wires are right, I have to wonder if it has somehow jumped timing. You'd think if a gear was bad enough to jump a tooth it wouldn't run at all though. So it's likely a distributor issue. Doesn't sound like any exhaust blockage.

    Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    GOD BLESS AMERICA





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    • #3
      According to the paperwork that came with the car, a new distributor (I'm assuming it was new) was purchased from a former Studebaker dealer in 1974 for $15 and installation cost another $15. At this time the car had less than 65,000 miles and now it only has 70,xxx miles. I'm curious why the distributor was changed before 65,000 miles. Perhaps there has been something else wrong with this car for 36 years?? Maybe the distributor and valves are not in synch? It's a mystery thus far.

      And you're correct Bams, no exhaust blockage here. The mufflers are no where to be found and so the exhaust exits under the floor. [8D]
      sigpic
      In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

      Comment


      • #4
        Video was great, I'd say you're on the right path. I would get the carb cleaned out and working, check the valve lash, make sure the dwell is right first, then set timing and do final carb adjustments last. When you're setting the timing (vacuum unhooked), make sure to check condition of the distributor with your timing light. It should be smooth up and down with the RPM's if all the parts are in good shape. I'll have to try and get over there sometime to see all your projects, looks like you're having fun![8D]


        Skinny
        Watertown, SD
        Skinny___'59 Lark VIII Regal____'60 Lark Marshal___

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        • #5
          I'll see about getting a carburetor kit for it this week. Once that is done, I can rule it out. It's running too rich as attested by the black soot that I blew out of my nose.
          sigpic
          In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

          Comment


          • #6
            Brent,
            I would love to come back to Minnesota & make that '64 Hawk run like it should.


            "QUIGLEY DOWN UNDER"
            MELBOURNE.

            \"QUIGLEY DOWN UNDER\"
            MELBOURNE.

            Comment


            • #7
              I must be the horns.

              Candbstudebakrs
              Castro Valley,
              California




              Candbstudebakers
              Castro Valley,
              California


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              • #8
                I discovered today why the accelerator pump in the carburetor wasn't squirting gasoline into the venturis. A previous owner installed a rebuild kit and installed a new pump outlet check ball under the pump discharge nozzle and forgot to remove the old existing check ball! After removing the new check ball, I looked down inside and saw this other check ball and it wouldnt come out as it was stuck. So I blew 90 psi of air into the pump inlet which then blew the stuck check ball out of the outlet.

                Aside from that, all the passages seem clear and I adjusted the float level slightly and then reassembled it and put it back on the engine. I'll go back out now and remove the valve covers and check for any possible stuck valves being it sat for a long time. Other than that, I hope to have a rebuilt water pump next week for installation. And to make Bob Peterson happy, I will try to get the dual air horns functioning.
                sigpic
                In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Did you have that camera mounted to a helmet? If not, you did a good job with just one hand free. Oh, to have three hands.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Nice progress. I had a 64 back in the 90's Sat for years but ran fine once I got the bugs out of it. The timing sounds retarded. Put a timing light on number 1 and get it flashing around 10-11 degrees BTDC at idle. These engines need more intial timing to respond well. Check the point dwell and quality of the points. Dwell should be between 27-32 degrees and stay in that range as rpm increases. Valve sounds fine. Probably ok on the lash but wouldn't hurt to double check. Should purr like a kitten once it gets new plugs, wires, points, and correct timing adjustment. May need carb work since it sat so long. Run a compression check to ascertain the sealing of the rings and or valves. Oil pressure is excellent. Divide and conqueor each issue. Good luck.

                    Start and Stage Your Studebakers
                    Start and Stage Your Studebakers

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My rebuilt water pump came in yesterday and so I installed it right away. I fired it up (first time since reinstalling the carburetor) but it still ran bad. So I gapped the plugs, regapped the points (I dont have a dwell meter yet), made certain that all ignition wires were seated on the plugs and in the cap, readjusted the distributor (by ear, I need a timing light) and readjusted the choke so that it would run leaner. Fired it up....well, watch the videos and you will hear and see! (The 2nd video is the best

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDIoI...eature=channel

                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhx8n...eature=channel


                      A wild Red Hawk admiring it's reflection.
                      In the middle of Minnestudea
                      sigpic
                      In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well, alrighty then! Rock on!

                        (Diggin' that aftermarket fuel cell [8D] )

                        Keoni Dibelka / HiloFoto
                        In Hawai'i; on Hawai'i; on the Windward Side
                        If da salt air never chew 'em up bumbye da lava will...

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                        • #13
                          Much better !!! Me LIKES IT...

                          John


                          63R-2386 under restoration & modification
                          sigpic
                          John
                          63R-2386
                          Resto-Mod by Michael Myer

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                          • #14
                            RESTORE IT!!!

                            Chris Dresbach

                            1940 Champion two door.
                            Parts of the 1952 Model N
                            1960s Prototype cart
                            Chris Dresbach

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                            • #15
                              quote:
                              Well, alrighty then! Rock on!

                              (Diggin' that aftermarket fuel cell )
                              Considering the one I got for the '55 from Summit, and the design and construction of the gas can in the video, you're not too far off the mark with statement [)].

                              [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010531-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                              [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/P1010550-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
                              [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
                              [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

                              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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