I picked up a real decent 60 Lark Convertible last spring that needs an engine in addition to the usual maintence items (brakes, u-joints, seals, etc.). The car is originally from California so it is near perfect by Minnesota standards and it also has every reciept from day one. The problem is that the previous owner had an engine fire and when the fire department put it out it filled the engine with water. They saved the car, but the engine is stuck. So currently I have four options for the engine.
1. Use a 55 259 short block that I have that has been rebuilt and should be ready to go. The down side is that I'd like to keep this engine with the car so I'm not mixing too many numbers up.
2. Rebuild the cloverleaf service block that is in the Lark using the crank and pistons out of the 55 block since the 55 will be getting a 289 in the future.
3. Use a spare full flow 289 that I have that would need rings, bearings, and gaskets at the least.
4. Use the running full flow 259 that is in my 63 Lark that would probably need rings, bearings, and gaskets. Since it is in a manual car I'd have to pull the pan and rear main to change the flex plate bolts so I might as well change the mains and rod bearings at the same time. This engine I could also compression test since it is running.
The other problem that I'm running into is the heads. How far do I go? Since there are off two of the engines and will probably be off the other two should I put new valves and seats? If I get new valves should I get stainless? If I'm going with new stainless valves should I use the R3 intakes in case I want to warm up the engine in the future? I plan on using a R1 camshaft and I also have some slightly used R1 valve springs that I changed out on another car in favor of the R1/2+ springs.
How far should I take this?
Nick
1. Use a 55 259 short block that I have that has been rebuilt and should be ready to go. The down side is that I'd like to keep this engine with the car so I'm not mixing too many numbers up.
2. Rebuild the cloverleaf service block that is in the Lark using the crank and pistons out of the 55 block since the 55 will be getting a 289 in the future.
3. Use a spare full flow 289 that I have that would need rings, bearings, and gaskets at the least.
4. Use the running full flow 259 that is in my 63 Lark that would probably need rings, bearings, and gaskets. Since it is in a manual car I'd have to pull the pan and rear main to change the flex plate bolts so I might as well change the mains and rod bearings at the same time. This engine I could also compression test since it is running.
The other problem that I'm running into is the heads. How far do I go? Since there are off two of the engines and will probably be off the other two should I put new valves and seats? If I get new valves should I get stainless? If I'm going with new stainless valves should I use the R3 intakes in case I want to warm up the engine in the future? I plan on using a R1 camshaft and I also have some slightly used R1 valve springs that I changed out on another car in favor of the R1/2+ springs.
How far should I take this?
Nick
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