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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Just about any chrome piece for the 53-54 C/K. I'm having a hell of a time finding good taillights, for example. And of course the grille shells and bars. The NOS chrome is all gone, apparently. Not finding much NOS trim on ebay or York/Reedsville. Trim pieces are all gone, or very pricey when found, or extreme $$$$$$$$$$ for rechroming (and still not be done right!!!! Grrrrr )

    There are few folks out there with huge parts stashes who don't have a complete inventory done. (you know who you are ) They might be the only hope unless repops happen. Seems a lot people are restoring these cars, perhaps a market for more repops exists. Then again, our fine Studebaker vendors have no doubt evaluated the market by now and are evidently finding it sufficient to support only the few bits now being made. But I hope I'm wrong!


    '53 Champion Starlight Coupe
    '60 Lark VIII
    '50 2R5

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  • Guest
    Guest replied
    Just about any chrome piece for the 53-54 C/K. I'm having a hell of a time finding good taillights, for example. And of course the grille shells and bars. The NOS chrome is all gone, apparently. Not finding much NOS trim on ebay or York/Reedsville. Trim pieces are all gone, or very pricey when found, or extreme $$$$$$$$$$ for rechroming (and still not be done right!!!! Grrrrr )

    There are few folks out there with huge parts stashes who don't have a complete inventory done. (you know who you are ) They might be the only hope unless repops happen. Seems a lot people are restoring these cars, perhaps a market for more repops exists. Then again, our fine Studebaker vendors have no doubt evaluated the market by now and are evidently finding it sufficient to support only the few bits now being made. But I hope I'm wrong!


    '53 Champion Starlight Coupe
    '60 Lark VIII
    '50 2R5

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Scott

    I've done the unbreakable motor mount on my 64 Daytona. The mechanic I bought it from suggested it. I believe we either took the metal from a stock mount or found some very large washers with the proper hole size. then I shopped around and bought a custom cut circular piece of rubber - believe it was 60 durometer. We used the metal for a template, drilled a hole through the rubber (it's thickness matched pretty well the Studebaker rubber thickness). Then we got a good strong grade long bolt and fed it through and bolted it in place like the real mount. After 50,000 miles I had no failure and no noticeable increase in vibration through the bolt. I remember it was tricky to get the bolt in and tightened down because it was a bit longer than the original overall height of the stock bolts, but it went in. I warned the new owner it might be tricky to take back out if he wanted to rebuilt the engine. If we had had a good place to get the bolt trimmed down, it would have been perfect.

    I only did it on one side - the side that moves up when the engine is revved.
    I remember engine mounts similar to this that were available 30-35 years ago. I don't know if they were Studebaker heavy duty parts or for some other manufacturer. They were commercial and not some home made item. I used them on my 1957 Golden Hawk.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Scott

    I've done the unbreakable motor mount on my 64 Daytona. The mechanic I bought it from suggested it. I believe we either took the metal from a stock mount or found some very large washers with the proper hole size. then I shopped around and bought a custom cut circular piece of rubber - believe it was 60 durometer. We used the metal for a template, drilled a hole through the rubber (it's thickness matched pretty well the Studebaker rubber thickness). Then we got a good strong grade long bolt and fed it through and bolted it in place like the real mount. After 50,000 miles I had no failure and no noticeable increase in vibration through the bolt. I remember it was tricky to get the bolt in and tightened down because it was a bit longer than the original overall height of the stock bolts, but it went in. I warned the new owner it might be tricky to take back out if he wanted to rebuilt the engine. If we had had a good place to get the bolt trimmed down, it would have been perfect.

    I only did it on one side - the side that moves up when the engine is revved.
    I remember engine mounts similar to this that were available 30-35 years ago. I don't know if they were Studebaker heavy duty parts or for some other manufacturer. They were commercial and not some home made item. I used them on my 1957 Golden Hawk.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rdGenStude
    replied
    Lower cowl patch panels for 47-52. Wouldn't it be the same for all models? If it replaced about the lower 8 inches of the cowl, and came flanged on the top for easy welding, it would be a nice companion piece to the front body mounts already done by Classic Ent.



    Paul

    1950 Land Cruiser project

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rdGenStude
    replied
    Lower cowl patch panels for 47-52. Wouldn't it be the same for all models? If it replaced about the lower 8 inches of the cowl, and came flanged on the top for easy welding, it would be a nice companion piece to the front body mounts already done by Classic Ent.



    Paul

    1950 Land Cruiser project

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Hell, I'd grab a pair of those, Bob![]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    Hell, I'd grab a pair of those, Bob![]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    Leave a comment:


  • BShaw
    replied
    C-cab [u]front</u> fenders in fiberglass for us'uns in the rust belt.

    BShaw,Webmaster

    60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
    Woodbury, Minnesota

    Leave a comment:


  • BShaw
    replied
    C-cab [u]front</u> fenders in fiberglass for us'uns in the rust belt.

    BShaw,Webmaster

    60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
    Woodbury, Minnesota

    Leave a comment:


  • Studenut65
    replied
    How about the pot-metal chrome piece at the top of the doors of a 60-61 Lark Convertible...they are impossible to find and mine are cracked right near the vent window. Plus, when you do find them...$$$$$$$$$.

    Nate

    Leave a comment:


  • Studenut65
    replied
    How about the pot-metal chrome piece at the top of the doors of a 60-61 Lark Convertible...they are impossible to find and mine are cracked right near the vent window. Plus, when you do find them...$$$$$$$$$.

    Nate

    Leave a comment:


  • Michidan
    replied
    Most rubber parts are being reproduced - but not all.

    Here's my addition to the list, rubber seals for installing the 4 pieces of rear glass on 1952 hardtops.
    I keep stalling hoping they will appear, before I have to by starlight coupe pieces and cut and glue.

    Dan
    52 hardtop

    Leave a comment:


  • Michidan
    replied
    Most rubber parts are being reproduced - but not all.

    Here's my addition to the list, rubber seals for installing the 4 pieces of rear glass on 1952 hardtops.
    I keep stalling hoping they will appear, before I have to by starlight coupe pieces and cut and glue.

    Dan
    52 hardtop

    Leave a comment:


  • 65cruiser
    replied
    Are you sure Studebaker Intl doesn't have these window seals? I've seen nearly everything for my Cruiser in their catalog. I would think the cat whiskers would be cut to fit, front or rear.

    quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

    '63 - '66 Lark vent window seals. How is no one making these?
    '63 - '66 Lark rear window cat whiskers.
    '62 - '63 Lark trunk lock housings that don't break when you look at them.
    Flight-O-Matic rear pumps for '59 - up.
    '63 Lark trunk lid lip pot metal trim.
    Honest-to-goodness padded vinyl dash covers, '62 - up Larks. They make 'em for Avantis!
    170-degree thermostats!
    Correct horn buttons for '59 - '63 Larks.

    Is that enough for now?
    [}][^]


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    ________________________
    Mark Anderson
    1965 Cruiser
    http://home.alltel.net/anderm

    Leave a comment:

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