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A Better Coolant For Your Stude Engine?

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  • A Better Coolant For Your Stude Engine?

    Just read an interesting article about this Evans NPG+ coolant.
    -40F freeze point.
    + 370F boiling point (non-pressurized![:0])

    One university test ran vehicles with a 215 degree thermostat rather than a 190 degree thermostat and realized a 3% fuel economy improvement.

    Interesting product.
    Jeff[8D]


    (source)
    http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm



    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

  • #2
    Wow, $32.50 a gallon ain't cheap. CASOs beware. Is it possible to mix this stuff with regular antifreeze/coolant?

    Comment


    • #3
      What does that internal temperature do to the oil? I know that I had an 85 Subaru that when it got hot (200 or so) the engine seemed to have a lot more power. I replaced the radiator and lost that power.

      [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
      Tom Bredehoft
      '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
      '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
      (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
      '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
      All Indiana built cars

      Comment


      • #4
        Non-aqueous propylene goes in straight NOT mixed with water or any other coolant. Water is actually considered to be a contaminant to NPG, so you need to completely drain and dry your cooling system before filling with NPG. So yes, it definitely is not CA$O friendly. It is amazing stuff, I have used it in hot rod applications. It is a high end industrial coolant that wicks away more heat from metal and resists the formation of over heated air pockets. Because of its unique gualities it is possible to see a higher temperature reading on your dashboard guage, while actually having a lower temperature on the metal of the cylinder head and block - its that good at wicking away heat energy. In a car engine the thermostat is removed and discarded, and a flow restrictor may need to be installed. Read their website for more details.

        If you have a "heater" (hot running engine for no good mechanical reason), then it is worth the money. Everyone else should stick with ordinary anti-freeze. Often times a hot running stock engine still has an undiagnosed problem (how many times has a hot running Stude had all sorts of fixes thrown at it when the problem was a hairline fracture of a head gasket?). For hot rods and other difficult to cool applications NPG may be the answer you seek.

        Thomas

        Long time hot rodder
        Packrat junk collector
        '63 Avanti R2 4 speed

        Comment


        • #5
          Tom B, you would need an oil temperature guage to know for sure.

          For a lot of old car owners, cooling systems are kind of like electrical systems in not being well understood.

          The newer the car, the more its tune is geared towards 200 degree coolant temperatures - higher in some applications.

          While we are on the topic of cooling systems, too many times I've heard an old car owner lament that their car runs "too hot". When asked how hot is too hot, I often get answers ranging from 180 to 200 degrees. That is not too hot, but a lot of guys are shooting for a 160 degree guage reading. Only in drag racing is a low starting line temperature desireable. In a street driven car running that cool shortens the oil life - because getting the engine running closer to 200 degrees help to burn off contaminants that accumulate in engine oil as the engine cools down after being shut down.

          Now if the car doesn't reach a temperature stability, but just keeps getting hotter as it is driven - then you have a problem.

          Thomas

          Long time hot rodder
          Packrat junk collector
          '63 Avanti R2 4 speed

          Comment


          • #6
            As Mike says, we put Evans Coolant into our R1 Cruiser 5 years ago and it has very fine molecules, so it can seep out of any fine gaps (like Silicon Brake Fluid does). I had to remove and hand file one pad of the intake water manifold on the Cruiser that was seeping although didn't with regular anti freeze.

            It contains [u]no water</u>, so no rust to wear out your heater core, radiator, or water pump. [:0]

            With such a high boiling point, you don't need a pressure cap, so less pressure on hoses, etc. (I run 4 pound rad cap to seal).

            It's about $150 to fill up a Stude, so it's best to use on new engine rebuild with clean water free system and new hoses, etc.

            Then you don't have to worry about flushing, rusting, or overheating again!

            It won't even kill your pet cat if he licks it!

            You will want to make sure your not running any distance with old hoses and keep spare fluid in trunk in case something cuts into your hose, or punctures the rad.
            I've put Evans Coolant in several of my Studebaker's and been very pleased with it.
            In the last 15 years, it's one of the best 5 ways I found to upgrade my Studebaker's.

            Water & Studes don't mix well. [xx(]

            James Bell





            The Bell Collection
            Bellingham, WA.
            Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
            Bellingham, WA.

            Comment


            • #7
              James, you make a convincing argument. Since I'll be using a fresh engine and radiator in my Cruiser, I may opt for this stuff from the start. Less system pressure, no oxidation, what more could one hope for![:0]

              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
              1963 Cruiser
              1960 Larkvertible V8
              1958 Provincial wagon
              1953 Commander coupe
              1957 President two door

              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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