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Closs Call Wiring Short

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  • Closs Call Wiring Short

    Had a close call today when I decided to give my 62 Champ a 100 mile run. As I was travelling I noticed the Gen warning light coming on intermittently. At the 50 mile turn around point I stopped for a coke, when a tried to start the truck the battery was dead. Opened the hood to discover the wire that goes to the "B" terminal on the volt regulator was smoking. Quickly pulled the battery cable off. Discovered that the main harness was pinched where the left front corner of the hood came to rest on it. It was melted from that point back to the regulator. The wire from the "A" terminal on the regulator to the solinoid was also burnt. Managed to pull everything apart and tape them up (always carry electical tape). Tried to start the truck but only got a groan. A managed to get a boost from local garage. Started OK. Drove it for the next 2 hours and never shut it off. I unfortunately had to make a quick instepection in a wooded area for lead that I had (turned out to be a Silver Hawk being squeezed by trees on all sides). When I returned home I shut the truck off fully anticipating that it would start. -Wrong! Just a groan again! Do you think there was more damage done other than the harness?

    Will inspect the Hawk more fully a latter date. It looks bad, but the parklight bezels on the fenders looked good. Windshield glass not cracked and rear fin chrome good. Will need a chain saw to remove it from its wooden prison!


  • #2
    Battery probably needs a deep-cycle recharge. Or, possible that one of the plates shorted. How was your charging on the way home? Any more lights come on?


    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" |


    • #3
      You will pretty much need to check out everything electrical now. The Voltage regulator may be cooked also.

      Back in the days of Generators being common, there were special aftermarket tiny fuses that connected to all three Voltage Regulator Terminals to connect the wires to. I found a few in an old Dealer stock buyout and thought it was a great idea.

      You could make something similar very easily with those in-line mini fuse holders for the plug-in fuses with the two flat leads.

      Also you need to protect the main power wire at the Solenoid Batt. terminal that powers up the Ignition Switch and everything on the Dash with a fuse or Breaker.
      Fusible links work, but I don't like them because they can not be easily replaced on the road, they are just gimmicks to get your car towed to a Dealer for repair.

      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies.

        The generator light did not come on on the drive back. I have it on charge now and will check it tomorrow to see if it take a charge. I will look at installed a fuse as you suggested.



        • #5

          When I rear mounted the battery in the 54K, I wanted to be sure the Main Power line was protected.

          Here's a shot of the High amp fuse from West Marine and the electric power diconnect from a Travel Trailer dealer. The fuses are available in a wide variety of amps.

          Power goes from battery to fuse to disconnect along the frame in plastic conduit to the starter.



          • #6
            I want to see pics of this Hawk.

            Alex Nelsen
            1954 Champion Coupe
            Lizella, GA
            Alex Nelsen, certified Studebaker nut.
            Driving a 1954 Champion Coupe powered by a Chrysler 383.
            Lizella, GA


            • #7
              Thanks for the info.

              I will try to get a picture of the Hawk in a couple of weeks when I'm back that way. As my truck was idling and the car was in a wooded area with "No trepassing" I did not want to linger long.