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  • avanti wire wheels

    Are the spokes in Avanti wire wheels stainless? I am having a set powder coated next week and have to strip them. The guy doing the powder can send them out but they sandblast them which I was warned against here on the forum. I have decided to use a muratic acid solution to strip the existing chrome myself as a less abrasive (and cheaper) method. I looked online and saw several posts that said the acid will tarnish stainless but I figure the powder should cover that discoloration up anyway,if they are even stainless. Is there any other reason I should not use muratic acid on them?
    Question 2) Am I correct that loosening the nut from the reverse side of the wheel will allow the center caps to be removed or is it harder (or simpler) than that? I was scared to try before I asked someone in the know.
    Thanks,Steve
    sigpic

  • #2
    Please clarify. No Studebaker Avantis came with wire wheels. Are you referring to wire wheel covers, original wire wheels on a non-Studebaker Avanti or something else?
    The wire wheels that I remember on post-Studebaker Avantis were, I believe, chrome plated steel.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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    • #3
      Can't help you with the Muratic acid (HCL) question, but if you use it. Soak the living He!! out of the acid treated parts in a solution of baking soda and water. That will neutralize the acid which will continue to corrode the metal in places you could not rinse.

      Bob

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      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by studegary

        Please clarify. No Studebaker Avantis came with wire wheels. Are you referring to wire wheel covers, original wire wheels on a non-Studebaker Avanti or something else?
        The wire wheels that I remember on post-Studebaker Avantis were, I believe, chrome plated steel.

        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

        Sorry,Avanti II wires,I believe they are Daytons but do not know. Steve
        sigpic

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by sweetolbob

          Can't help you with the Muratic acid (HCL) question, but if you use it. Soak the living He!! out of the acid treated parts in a solution of baking soda and water. That will neutralize the acid which will continue to corrode the metal in places you could not rinse.

          Bob


          Thanks,I usually use water followed by MEK as a rinse after muratic acid but have never done anything this intricately designed or anything chromed. I would guess a washtub full of water/baking soda would be a money saver.I am starting with the worst wheel I have but would hate to damage any of them.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Also,How much baking soda per gal of water for that rinse? We are starting a wheel in a few minutes. Thanks,Steve
            sigpic

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            • #7
              The wire wheels used on Avanti ll's in the '70s were made by Borrani and were knockoff splined hub.The splined hub itself just bolted to the drum or disc with the stock lug nuts. They were gorgeous, made any Avanti look like a million bucks, and were quite heavy. I installed probably a dozen sets while I worked on he Avanti line '73-'75. Still doesn't answer your question, I know. KP

              Ken Pyle

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              • #8
                BE CAREFUL with that acid!!! It can de-temper some metals such as spring steel I tried to clean some springs once and it left them useless. NT


                Neil Thornton
                Hazlehurst, GA
                '57 Silver Hawk
                '56 Sky Hawk
                '51 2R16 dump truck
                Many others.

                Neil Thornton

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                • #9
                  Keep Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic) away from stainless, the chlorides will attack the stainless, and you'll end up with corrosion pits, I'd use phosphoric acid. With regards to neautralising the acid after the clean and passivating the metal, so long as you use some sort of alkalai and bring the passivation solution pH up to above 10, but monitor it with pH strips or litmus paper, as the acid will bring it down with each wheel. Have you tried a molassis solution for cleaning rust off? It's very good but you have to keep an eye on it or you'll dissolve the parts away[:0]

                  Matt
                  Brisbane
                  Australia
                  Matt
                  Brisbane
                  Australia
                  sigpic

                  Visit my Blog: http://www.mattsoilyrag.blogspot.com.au/

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                  • #10
                    I would try to contact the wheel manufacturer, or their representative, and get their opinion/input.

                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer
                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by Aussie Hawk

                      Keep Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic) away from stainless, the chlorides will attack the stainless, and you'll end up with corrosion pits, I'd use phosphoric acid. With regards to neautralising the acid after the clean and passivating the metal, so long as you use some sort of alkalai and bring the passivation solution pH up to above 10, but monitor it with pH strips or litmus paper, as the acid will bring it down with each wheel. Have you tried a molassis solution for cleaning rust off? It's very good but you have to keep an eye on it or you'll dissolve the parts away[:0]

                      Matt
                      Brisbane
                      Australia
                      OOPS! I had already started before I read your response. Hopefully they are not stainless, I should know momentarily. Unfortunately 3 of these are beyond any cleanup. Steve
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Dayton offeres a wheel refurbishing service. Call Dayton before you go any further.

                        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Tom - Mulberry, FL

                        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

                        1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

                        Tom - Bradenton, FL

                        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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                        • #13
                          These are pics of one of the wheels.



                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Well,That didnt work. The acid is attacking the center part of the rear of the wheel too hard. Its like a spacer that is actually a part of the wheel. The acid turned it black and seemed to be deteriating it pretty quickly. I tried to find a number for Dayton but suspect that service is out of our budget. I am officially stuck now. Others have said not to use an abrasive blaster on them but I see no other budgetable alternative available to me. Dry ice blasting was reccommended but I cant find anyone near me with the equipment. Steve
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              I would recommend against powder coating the wheels as whole assemblies. The wheels can actually flex just a little where there are connections between the different parts - which I think could flake some of the powdercoat. Your wheels apear to have chrome over steel spokes. If I saw a set of previouly chrome wire wheels and spokes that had been powder coated whole, I would pressume they were junk.

                              Restoring wire wheels is not easy or cheap. Whether you rechrome or powdercoat the proper way is to disassmble the wheels first. Lacing up wheels is no fun - time consuming or expensive depending on if you do it or pay to have it done.

                              Thomas

                              Long time hot rodder
                              Packrat junk collector
                              '63 Avanti R2 4 speed

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