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  • Body work question

    The 63 sedan project rolls on and I'm removing the innards from the doors. Ever try to de-clip a window whose regulator is stuck in the UP position? I learned a new vocabulary! Drop lights, mirrors, long handled screwdrivers...oh well, I got 'em.

    The bottom of at least one of the doors has paint bubbles and I know what's waiting for me under them. Until I remove more paint and wire wheel the area I'm not too sure of the extent. Is it advisable to cut out and replace a strip of sheet metal where the bubbles run, or after cleaning and de-rusting, lay a strip of fiberglass inside the door and fill it in from the front?

    Thanks for any input.

  • #2
    NO WAY on the fiberglas! Cutting out the rust and welding in new metal is the only right way to go.

    Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
    Parish, central NY 13131





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    • #3
      I agree, no fiberglass. But make sure you drill some drain holes in the bottom of the door so when water gets in the door (and it will) it can drain out. A common cause of those bubbles is the last time someone did body work on that door it probally had pin holes and or big rust holes on the bottom form the lack of the door being able to drain. They filled the holes with bondo and when the water got in the doors it got the bondo wet from the inside and that caused the bubbles. I bet when you grind the bottom of the door you will find bondo only. Replace the bottom with new metal put some light undercoating on the inside and you ae good to go. Good luck.

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      • #4
        Thanks! I did check the two drains and they were plugged.
        Opened them with the screwdriver, and will weld in new metal.

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        • #5
          Like Bob said,no glass only metal!!! if you replace metal where the origional drain slots are,make new ones as close to old location so water drains outside the rocker panels and not on the inner floor area!

          Joseph R. Zeiger
          Joseph R. Zeiger

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          • #6
            POR-15 and fiberglass MAT will work well for pinholes in the lower door and outer door skin.
            It is important to get a hacksaw blade in there to clean out the inner seam. Sandblasting is also an avenue to explore.
            Once cleaned- use DUCT-TAPE to close off any pinholes and the drains from the OUTSIDE. Thin 1/2 cup of POR-15 with URETHANE reducer... and pour it into the door. ROCK the door back and forth to get good coverage...and let it sit for a couple hours. BEFORE the POR-15 is completely dry... repair the pinholes with the fiberglass MAT on the inside of the door.
            CLEAR THE DRAINS.. and do not cover them with the mat. Check the drains several times during the curing process... to be sure they stay clear, You can stand the door upside-down to help keep the POR from flowing into the drains.
            Do your bodywork as necessary from the outside...

            IF your door is weak at the lower HINGE area.. that MUST be reinforced with METAL. I usually remove an 8" x 8" area of the outer skin right at the hinge to provide good access. It's also easy to re-fit a corner piece of metal there. After re-skinning.. use the POR/Fiberglas combo to seal the area.

            Ray


            Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
            Ray

            www.raylinrestoration.com
            Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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            • #7
              Here's whaqt I'm looking at:



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              • #8
                Replace the metal. Go up to good solid metal to weld to. Good luck!

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