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Valuable lesson learned.

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  • Valuable lesson learned.

    OK, I'm a moron. I've always known this, but just had it reconfirmed.

    My son and I went out to reinstall the hood on Barney. I was smart - I'd marked the location of the hinges by outlining them with Sharpie before I removed the hood. So all I had to do was match the hinges up to the marks on the hood and bolt 'er down.

    Here's where the moron part occurs. I forgot to allow for the 1/16" of gap between the nib of the pen and the actual placement of the hinge. So my boy held the hood in place while I tightened things up and then gently closed it. Can you guess what happened?

    The hood was aligned 1/16" too far back. So when I tried to raise it again it snugged up against the cowl and would not open.

    I tried tugging on it from the front to try and skooch it forward. No go, I'd tightened the bolts just a little too much. I tried running a plastic Bondo spreader in the gap, hoping to coerce the metal of the hood UP. No go. I tried sticking a long board in the opening between the grille header and the hood to push the hood up from the inside. Similar results. And of course there's no way to loosen those bolts from the engine compartment, even if you could get an appendage up that far from underneath. I had visions of having to cut the hood off at the corners [V]

    Thank God the body gaps in Studebakers are so wide, for that was the only thing that saved me. It occurred to me that the sheet metal "wrench" on my Skil circular saw was the same size as the bolt head. So I flattened it with a couple of sledge blows and levered it in the gap between hood and fender. Got it! a few turns on all four and the hood slid forward enough to lift it without damage.

    So let my stupidity be a lesson to any other rubes and noobs reading this: never tighten 'em down until you're sure the alignment is right. I escaped with just a barely noticeable kink in the hood where it meets the cowl, but it could easily have been much worse.

    You may now tell me how dumb I am [:I]


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    Clark

    If that doesn't happen from time to time, you're spending to much on having other people do your work.

    At least you were able to figure out a solution without mucking up the hood.

    Just another day in Studebaker land.

    Bob

    , ,

    Comment


    • #3
      Next time, when disassembling, try drilling a lil' 1/8" alignment hole and stick the drill bit in there to use as an alignment pin on reassembly.
      Dab of filler in the hole and a touch up and no one will ever know...
      HTIH
      Jeff[8D]


      quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

      <snip>
      My son and I went out to reinstall the hood on Barney. I was smart - I'd marked the location of the hinges by outlining them with Sharpie before I removed the hood. So all I had to do was match the hinges up to the marks on the hood and bolt 'er down.
      <snip>
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        I usually use a scribe up close to the item. Also, as you state, do not tighten the item until you are sure of the placement/alignment.

        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

        Comment


        • #5
          Jeff's suggestion is tried and true. But I have to add the
          following WARNING :

          1. Make sure your twist drill is new / sharp

          2. DO NOT use a full length twist drill

          3. Insert the drill DEEP into the chuck with just enough protruding
          to drill through the hinge and inner hood.

          4. Use a lubricant

          5. DO NOT eat a big breakfast before attempting this delicate
          operation ...you are not drilling plate steel. Let the drill do
          the work ....1/8 drill equals high speed with minimal feed

          6. Always use a centre punch

          7. FAILURE to follow steps 1-6 virtually guarantees a nicely flayed
          1/8 inch bullet hole [ or two ..if you are really daft ] in each
          corner of your hood of your beloved Studebaker ....

          8. If at all possible ..practice this skill on someone elses car
          first ...maybe your brother-in-law ?



          Hey Andy .......Hey Goob

          Comment


          • #6
            The Ultra Fine Point Shatpies work great for that, they get right in against the hinge and when reassembled the lines are nearly invisible unless you're really looking for them.

            Analog man in a digital world.

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