Engine Test Stand??

[jclary]

Over the years, I have seen people at Junk Yards, garages, and flea markets, crank up an engine lying on the ground, or in the back of a pick up truck. Although it works to allow a prospective buyer hear the engine, I just never liked the thought of an engine wallowing around on its oil pan. I have a couple of spare six cylinders and a V8 I would like to play with. I would like to have some kind of simple "test stand" to run them on. Before I start another "re-invent the wheel project" I thought I would ask what other members of the Forum have for "test stand" ideas.

John Clary
Greer, SC

I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

[bams50]

Just do what JDP did, cut the front half of the frame out of a junk Stude. Then you can just bolt it to stock mounts.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[Roscomacaw]

There have been several topics over the years about building such. My approach - one that I'll be putting to use again today - was to cut the front section of a Stude truck frame, weld four channel iron legs to it and you're ready to go! You could leave the front axle in place and add a large caster.
On mine, I just welded four pneumatic wheel casters - one to each leg. Same thing could be done with a car frame too!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[Roscomacaw]

I think JDP built a cradle out of tubing.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[289stude]

I havn't done it yet, but I plan on useing the front end of an old Studebaker frame. I plan on shortening the front a foot or so, cutting the back just near the cross member, and making an adjustable plate to bolt to the rear of the block. The Studebaker frame will accomidate all Stude motors that I know of. Just weld on some legs and your done. If you wanted to get real creative you could roll the springs over for legs (side ways) up front narrow a rear with some cool wheels in back. You could build the whole thing frome 1 srap rolling chassis.




John

53' 2R5 R1 Powershift TT Under Construction

57' Transtar 304 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction (in Picture)

58' 3E6D Stock Sale Pending

61' 6E7 122 Factory Auto

[289stude]

Sheeze you guys type alot faster than I can when i started nobody had even replied to this now there are several with the same idea.




John

53' 2R5 R1 Powershift TT Under Construction

57' Transtar 304 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction (in Picture)

58' 3E6D Stock Sale Pending

61' 6E7 122 Factory Auto

[jclary]

So far it looks like the suggestions are coming from you northern guys, 'cept for Biggs, with lots of rusty iron laying around. I was hoping for maybe a few pieces of angle iron with some kinda adjustable engine mounts and "cute" feet. I'd hate to sacrifice a whole chassis just to play with a spare engine. I have one of those shop stands for mounting a block without the fly wheel. But I don't think it would be adaptable for a complete running engine.

John Clary
Greer, SC

I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

I think JDP built a cradle out of tubing.

Here's JDP's with my engine on it:





It's the front crossmember/mounts, some angle, and a trans. mount. Simple as pie!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[jclary]

Great! simple and clean! Now...'bout that orange thang (drawl) hanging 'round on top of that motor...

John Clary
Greer, SC

I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by jclary

Now...'bout that orange thang (drawl) hanging 'round on top of that motor...

Dunno what that is- I think it's some kind of pollution device. I'll probably pull it off and throw it away

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

[jlmccuan]

That is a Studebaker smog pump. It allows you to make about 50% more smog plus increase fuel consumption at the same time. "They were way ahead of their time."

Jim

_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152_______________Rabid Snail Racing

[R2Andrea]

I engineered one up for my self but don't have any pics to post. But... what you'll find here www.easy-run.net is quite close design wise.

R2Andy

[gordr]

Assuming you don't have a frame to cut up, or that you want something that looks pretty:

Assemble your engine to the bellhousing you plan to use. Set the assembly on a flat floor, and prop it so the carburetor or top flange of the intake manifold is level. Drop a plumb bob from each front motor mount stud to the floor, and make a chalk mark. Also measure the vertical distance from the bottom face of the motor mount biscuit to the floor on each side.

Depending upon the bellhousing used, drop a plumb and measure the vertical distance for the bellhousing mounts. Standards (mostly) have a mount located low on the bottom, automatics (mostly) have them at about 4:00 and 8:00 on the round portion of the bell. In any case, you should use the mounting surface(s) for the front mounts as a datum, and reference you your rear mount points to them, in three dimensions.

Make your measurements several times, and draw a sketch with all the relevant dimensions double-checked. Then get some steel, or even lumber, if you are so inclined, and build a frame of suitable size and strength to support the assembly on whatever mounting surfaces you have decided upon. Remember to leave room to access the oil pan, and the fan, and starter. Leave enough extra length on the side rails of the frame to support a radiator or water tank at the front, and a battery at the rear. An instrument panel with a set of gauges would be a nice touch.

If you go to swap meets or hot rod shows, you can see ready-made stands of this type offered for sale. Some are dedicated to one engine type, others are adjustable to fit many kinds.

If the engine you are testing is to be attached to an automatic transmission, you would be best to make your test stand accommodate the whole transmission. You need to have the transmission in place to properly support the torque converter, which in turn has the ring gear on it. The alternative would be to have a "test flywheel" on hand, with the mounting holes counter-bored so you could attach it to the short crank bolts used on automatic-tranny cars. OK if you have lots of parts on hand, not so good if it's your only Studebaker engine.

The big advantage to using a cut-off Studebaker frame is that the tricky 3-dimensional measuring has already been done for you.

Rather than tie up a good radiator in a test stand, I would simply use a steel 5-gallon pail with some tubes welded into it to accept rad hoses. I wouldn't expect to want to run an engine in the test stand any longer than it takes to get it fully warmed up, and the valves adjusted.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Roscomacaw]

C'mon Macgordyver!

Surely you can make one with some bamboo plant stakes, some super glue, a handful of metric hardware and 20 feet of clothesline.

Geesh! Whar's the ingenuity in what you've just conceived???[B)]

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[jclary]

I wouldn't want to pick on (Mr.) Gord too much. He has given me some great tips in the short time I have been gleaning knowledge from this forum. With all the reading time the Canadian winters provide, we could expect some good technical know how to result.