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  • tomnoller
    replied
    An old friend locally has offered me a free OHV Stude six from a '63, which would be a good option if it's not too tired.
    Got this back from the machine shop today and will try the hill once it's back in.

    Click image for larger version

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  • tomnoller
    replied
    An old friend locally has offered me a free OHV Stude six from a '63, which would be a good option.
    Got this back from the machine shop today and will try the hill once it's back in.

    Click image for larger version

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  • vetteson
    replied
    Who knows, I was referring to my '55 Speedster. Anyway, yes, in '58 with heads and FI, 283s were making 290 hp in Corvettes

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by vetteson View Post
    For what it's worth, I put a rebuilt "Thunderbolt" 283 in my '55 Speedster. Added a "power pack" (Edelbrock intake, Rochester 4GC, block-hugger headers). . Much more power than any Stude of its time.
    Without a cam and valve spring change, how much horsepower increase are you claiming for the Edelbrock intake and block hugger headers? The 1958 Chevy 283" 4-bbl was rated at 220hp. The 1958 Studeabaker 289" 4-bbl was rated at 225hp.

    FWIW, when I raced 283"s it was usually heads-up; the Stude's TwinTraction, lower rear axle ratio and overdrive was usually enough for the win.

    jack vines

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  • vetteson
    replied
    Also, if you change engines you will need a new driveshaft.
    Last edited by vetteson; 05-20-2020, 07:15 AM.

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  • vetteson
    replied
    For what it's worth, I put a rebuilt "Thunderbolt" 283 in my '55 Speedster. Added a "power pack" (Edelbrock intake, Rochester 4GC, block-hugger headers). As you have the mounts it would be pretty straight forward. Much more power than any Stude of its time. A suggestion, if you consider the V8 chevy option a terrific transmission is out there. I have one in my Speedster. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...3B&FORM=IQFRBA

    Great transmission, uses chevy alum. bell (bolts to engine), many alum. components and is a 4 sp OD (3rd is 1:1, 4th is OD) They all came Click image for larger version

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ID:	1836891 with Hurst shifters. OR, you could use your BW T86, I have a bell housing. Problem is it weighs a ton (cast iron).

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  • ToGa 42
    replied
    Private Message sent.

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
    I took all the plugs out and checked compression on each cyl with an opened the choke plate and floored accelerator while cranking:
    1 - 100 pounds
    2 - 75
    3 - 115
    4 - 85
    5 - 100
    6 - 100
    That's better than I thought I'd see.
    While you're already in it adjusting the valves, get #2 and #4 in turn up on compression; put 100# of air pressure into the cylinders. Listen at the intake, exhaust, crankcase to determine where that missing 25# of compression is going. If it just takes a valve touchup to get those two up to 100#, that would make a noticeable difference in performance at no cost.

    jack vines

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  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
    Rich - When I had the engine out I replaced the valve cover gaskets and should have checked the valve clearances when it was apart. Duh!
    I bought some BBs at a sporting goods store and used them in the holes you mentioned. Worked for me several times before on rebuilds as the BBs fit snugly.
    Kenny, thanks for the option! $750 for most of new engine is a bargain. If after valve adjustment and planing the manifold I still can't get up the hill respectably, I'll pursue it!
    You might want to think about/investigate if you would be going from a 185 to a 170.

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  • tomnoller
    replied
    Rich - When I had the engine out I replaced the valve cover gaskets and should have checked the valve clearances when it was apart. Duh!
    I bought some BBs at a sporting goods store and used them in the holes you mentioned. Worked for me several times before on rebuilds as the BBs fit snugly.
    Kenny, thanks for the option! $750 for most of new engine is a bargain. If after valve adjustment and planing the manifold I still can't get up the hill respectably, I'll pursue it!

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  • drrotor
    replied
    Tom— I have a Champion 6 NOS “fitted block assembly” still in it’s crate, swaddled in cosmoline, that you can have for oh, say $750? And I’m just in Renton... not sure of the year as it has no serial number. I also have a Buick Regal carbureted turbocharger... Kenny Durkee

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Did ya know that the Valves CAN be adjusted on side Valve Sixes by just removing a Valve Door?

    Notice I did not say it was easy!

    If it has been leaking a lot from those Valve Covers, there are 12 small holes under the Lower part of the Cover Gaskets that had a factory fix to install small Lead Carb. Plugs in the holes, because there IS Oil Pressure to the Lifters in them! They MAY already be plugged.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 05-15-2020, 08:20 PM.

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  • tomnoller
    replied
    Exactly, Bob!
    I have always liked the little Champion engines for their thrifty dependability...certainly not for their power.
    Tomorrow my project is a manifoldectomy and feeler gauges to the valves. I just want a car I can drive anywhere without worry.

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  • Bob Andrews
    replied
    One of the biggest advantages of a Scotsman is that no matter what you do it will never be that valuable in the collector car world, so originality/authenticity means next to nothing. Change whatever you want, and enjoy it!

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  • tomnoller
    replied
    My plan is to take the manifold to my machine shop and while it's out, I'll pull the valve covers off and check clearances cold. My timing mark IGN is right under the pointer and steady. Dave T-bow rebuilt my vacuum advance and I cleaned and lightly oiled the weights & springs when I had the dist out for my PerTronix installation.
    I like your assessment of the engine being well seasoned but not worn out, Roy! It's kinda like me.

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