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  • Working On Studes While Sheltered In Place

    Last week I did a job that had been in the round-2-it bin for awhile, re-greased the rear wheel bearings on the 56J. While at it, I also installed new rear shocks (KG 5197, for 99-2004 Jeep GC)), relined brake shoes (riveted on with, "the good stuff"), and freshly turned drums. While at it, I replaced one of the rear wheel bearings, and replaced all 10 wheel studs. So it was a fairly big job. The car is all back together now, and driven about 100 miles since. It sits about 1/2" higher in the rear, thanks to the new shocks, and rides better than it has in a long time. Also, the brakes work smooth as silk and, combined with the huge 12" rotors and calipers, will stop on a dime with only moderate pedal pressure. See more on the Jeep GC shocks here: Rear Shock Interchange, 1951-56 And/Or 57-62
    I am still working on light to moderate tasks, building up to the last big job of assembling a 352 short block. I keep the mechanicals caught up, but refreshing the cosmetics will be left for the next owners, somewhere down the road. I have done my last paint & body work, and installed my last interior. I like to tinker with them once in awhile, but really just love driving and enjoying them. Every mile in a Studebaker is an adventure, always has been and always will be.

  • #2
    Hey, Joe,
    I'm glad you can still work on your cars. I have not been allowed to get to the Hawk for a month now, and this is a looooong time.
    Thanks for sharing your shock absorbers swap references and experiences. One thing surprised me, though. You might be the guy who puts the more miles on several Hawks on Earth, and I don't understand why you did not install grease fittings for the rear wheel bearings. But, if you did not, I know there is a good reason for this. Could you enlighten me, please?
    Nice Sunday to all.
    sigpic

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    • #3
      If the weather would only cooperate here in Upstate NY, I WOULD be working on the Sky Hawk...

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      • #4
        For me, sadly, my Studebakers are and have been "sheltering in place," before the pandemic hit. For the past several years we were focused on caring for my elderly mother who required skilled care for her last years. After she passed, I realized that much of my (too many) projects had stalled and I had fallen way behind in maintenance and upkeep of my buildings. So, my highest priority became getting the buildings repaired. What good are the cars if the buildings that house the shop, tools, & equipment collapses? So, I have spent the last couple of months on building repairs. I am nearing a point where I can de-clutter all the (temporary?)stuff I had stored behind the cars and see what's left of them.

        Yesterday, I relocated my fenced chicken pasture from one of my garden spots to an area where a tree can provide them with some summer shade. That required me to deconstruct the 6'X10' chain link fence panels making a 20'X40' pen and relocating and erecting it again. Then I plowed and prepped several garden plots. I hope I can find garden supplies this coming week.

        I'll find some Studebaker time soon. I'm afraid I might have to make multiple 6-volt battery purchases. If so, it won't be the first time. Through the years I have had to do that more than once.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          Like you Joe, I have been fortunate enough to continue working on my Hawk, making slow progress in my attempts to "modernize" it as the p.o. had started. I have given up on the attempt to install a reverse opening hood for now and my son is coming over today to help me get one of the other hoods down from the rafters and put the modified hood back up. I might try the reverse method again somewhere down the road but for now I can put up with the regular way. We're still hoping that the International Meet will be a go. Decision making time is looming soon and more info is being held up a bit by the Covid-19 virus. Glad you are enjoying your cars!! Bill

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          • #6
            Click image for larger version  Name:	20200407_145640.jpg Views:	0 Size:	105.2 KB ID:	183091120200407_145705.jpgClick image for larger version  Name:	image_76017.jpg Views:	7 Size:	89.8 KB ID:	1830904 I've been working everyday on our 54 Commander since having to close both storefronts. The frame off restoration had slowed to a crawl as I run back and forth caring for my 88 yr. old mom that is still on the farm in SE Nebraska. She refuses to move to my farm here in TX though I set the 33'RV up next side the house. So its a week or two in NE then the 600 mile run back to E TX. I just couldn't concentrate on Cody Commander. Since Covid my little brothers both off work took up looking after her and I got to be in my garage. uninterrupted. Now another MAJOR project out of nowhere. Pulled the 65 Tbird convert. out to enjoy and the the old girl burst into flames. Floats must have stuck and I kept pumping the foot feed because I was thinking what the hell is wrong why are you running like crap. OH oh not the right thing to do. Thankfully between the barn and workshop I ran my fat butt, found a extinguisher that worked and made it back to the car before a total loss. Now another one to work on. I thought my 54 would be the last car I would redo. Guess not! Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by poweroptions; 04-19-2020, 06:15 AM.
            1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

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            • #7
              Joe what specifically did you have to modify on the '62 so the KG5197 installed as you wanted? My '62 Hawk rides terrible in the rear and would like a better ride. The shocks I have are new but I'm not sure what they are as I inherited them when I bought the car. Also where did you purchase your rear shocks? PM would be fine but others in the club might like your response as well. Thanks, Chet

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              • #8
                I've been doing quite alot of Stude work while still doing the social distance , I put an R-1 style fuel bypass on the Daytona , The car has a had a vapor lock issues and I've tried all the suggestions here on the forum and while doing that I found the water pump bearing was noisy so I replaced that and I did a touch up on some small areas on the car , Next I have to fix the oil leak on the bottom end. I put that engine together in 1988 so the seals held out well. I helped my brother assemble a 289 short block for his Daytona , He finished the engine and installed it , The car runs great. I have a friends 185 six here now in kit form and I will start the assembly of that shortly , I cant wait to hear this engine run as we did a mild porting job and a Phil Brown cam , It will have 2- 1bbl carbs on a offenhauser manifold and a beautiful set of headers ceramic coated. Ed

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                • #9
                  While I am sheltered in place, I am also still working from home . I am certainly thankful I have a job that I can do this. But this gives me no extra time to work on my car. I am working a tad in afternoons, but that still means this can only happen when all our grass cutting and yard work and spring chores are done After the last month of being in this situation I am thinking of taking vacation or sick time, whichever my employer decides , to actually be at home and be free to work on my car. I am behind on where I wanted to be because I had already planned to take two weeks vacation about the time this virus hit, and it was put off My car work has been one to three hours at the time This Saturday I worked most of the time on cleaning and getting things back in order rather than all the time working on the car !!!

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                  • #10
                    I’ve been on paid Covid leave from Home Depot for a month, God bless them. I thought I would have my 53 Starliner on the road by now but STILL CAN’T get the rear drums off!! Here it sits....
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by tim333; 04-19-2020, 07:15 AM.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tim333 View Post
                      I’ve been on paid Covid leave from Home Depot for a month, God bless them. I thought I would have my 53 Starliner on the road by now but STILL CAN’T get the rear drums off!! Here it sits....
                      I can't figure out what you have on the center bolt of the puller. It looks like it will prevent the puller from operating correctly. I suggest: remove that item, put the axle nut on in reverse at the end of the threads, make sure the parking brake cable is released, back off the brakes, TIGHTEN the center bolt of the puller, WHACK the end of the puller (straight toward the axle).
                      Gary L.
                      Wappinger, NY

                      SDC member since 1968
                      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tim333 View Post
                        I’ve been on paid Covid leave from Home Depot for a month, God bless them. I thought I would have my 53 Starliner on the road by now but STILL CAN’T get the rear drums off!! Here it sits....
                        You definitely have the best puller for the job. Oil the threads, whack the handle with a baby sledge 20-30 times to tighten it to max, then whack the ends of the legs that anchor to the lug studs. Just popped both of the 56J's off in about 5 minutes per side.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by JoeHall View Post

                          You definitely have the best puller for the job. Oil the threads, whack the handle with a baby sledge 20-30 times to tighten it to max, then whack the ends of the legs that anchor to the lug studs. Just popped both of the 56J's off in about 5 minutes per side.
                          I'm at the same stage on my HR5 and this is the first time taking off the rear drums, could you advise as which exact puller this is? Will try to find a reasonable deal for one online if possible..

                          Thanks

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                          • #14
                            I tried the normal way, then put the metal plate in there, then went back to the normal way. Still no go. 5 minutes??!!! I wish I had that luck. Had the same problem a few years ago with a 63 Hawk, took weeks with a puller from FLAPS. I thought it would be easier with the proper puller, NOT! Joe I’ll try whacking the legs as you suggest.

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                            • #15
                              Was always taught to get that puller tight enough you could stand of the end without it giving and then take that small sledge and whack the end of the puller - most are pretty beat up so it seems to be pretty common. The axle nut put back on with the castle end toward the drum will keep the end of the axle from mushrooming.

                              On rare occasion, I have taken one of those little hand held torches and heated the drum right around the mating area. It always seems like something is going to break but have yet to not be able to get one off. Important part is when putting them back on, make sure the mounting area is clean and completely dry - don't put anything on anywhere. Good luck.

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