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  • #16
    The 47-52 convertibles and the two door and four door sedans take the same "short" trunk lid. The coupes, three and five passenger take the "long" trunk.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 01-06-2020, 08:33 PM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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    • #17
      Here is something for inspiration, or just outright buy it and save 5 years.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-Studeb...sAAOSwYOxeDn73

      I get to see it every year at our Thanksgiving party hosted by the owners. They also drive it to our annual chapter banquet at the Tanque Verde Guest Ranch in Tucson. This year it is on the 19th of January.

      Bob Miles

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      • #18
        Inspiration, yes! Thank you for the link. Buy it? Sounds attractive, but actually I'm one of those who gets just as much enjoyment, maybe more in the build than the finished product.
        Since I started this thread, I hit a deer with my Hemi Durango. I was able to buy it back from the insurance company for $600. I have had that Durango for more than 10 years and I know the motor is strong and well kept up as well as the transmission. So I think this is falling into place. This will be a Hemi powered Studebaker.

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        • #19
          I like the way you think. Have fun and good luck on the build.
          Bob
          Bob
          Welland Ontario
          60 Lark Convertible
          64 Daytona
          sigpic
          "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

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          • #20
            Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
            An ambitious project but sounds like it will be stunning.

            A good thought on the pillars and torque boxes. Initially you need to get the body squared up and braced. If the frame is good you can start by leveling it up and repairing the body so it sets correctly on it. If you're lucky the frame is solid and the body is also solid at the attachment points so it would just be a matter of adjustment on the door.

            IAC, you said the hinges were stiff so I'd start by freeing them up and getting the doors to fit. That will probably include racking the body to get the gaps correct. When that's all done, brace the heck out of the body to keep it square.

            Then proceed with frame mods or new frame and put the body back on the new frame and square it up with the frame. Rebrace if necessary. Now you can pull the body, do all the repairs necessary and move forward.

            BTW, the hog troughs are just sheet metal that can be bent on a home sized brake from Harbor Freight. My 54K looked like the picture and I fabed them from 16 ga sheet steel using a 24" brake and just MIG welded them together. I can post a picture of the rough finished ones on the body if necessary.

            Did I mention that squaring up the body is kinda important early in the build!!!????

            Good luck, Bob
            Yes, I would love to see photos of how you made your torque boxes! I have to make a set this winter for my 48 champion convertible project. The floor patching, front and rear body mounts are done, but the next challenge is the torque boxes.
            Thanks,
            Brian
            54 Champion coupe
            48 Champion Convert

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            • #21
              Originally posted by 50Ragtop View Post
              Thank you all for the replies. I looked underneath when I had it on the trailer and was expecting to see a big X brace on the frame. So the large torque boxes make a lot of sense. As you can see, there’s not muck left of mine. Fortunately I can fabricate parts and I have a great source for sheets of steel. You can also see lower A pillar rust as well. Question! Do the torque boxes run the length of the rocker area? And it looks like body to frame bolts go through the torque boxes. I’ll also need floor and trunk. I’ve found Classic Enterprises that make these as well as rockers. The also have som body braces but I assume no need for those on a convertible with the torque boxes taking their place. Sorry, bad pic of the A pillar.
              This is doable. It is about how my car looked when I started working on it last winter. I used the front corners of a rust free 47-52 champion floor (4 door) I got from C&B (thanks Bob!) from a car he scrapped but kept the floor. The patches I installed included the bottom 6" of the A-Pillars and the front body mounts to patch it up. The car is braced up, and I used ratchet straps to pull forward on the top of the cowl to make the door gaps nice before I welded bracing into the car across the door openings and between the doors. The top is also in placed and latched as I am patching.

              I actually have a set of brand new "classic enterprises" front body mounts I would sell reasonably if someone needs them. I used a set of the "rear" classic enterprises mounts, and they worked well. Pics in the next post, of the patches during the replacement process.
              Last edited by 54stude; 01-08-2020, 06:34 PM.
              54 Champion coupe
              48 Champion Convert

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              • #22
                54 Champion coupe
                48 Champion Convert

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                • #23
                  Thanks for all the info and pictures that all you guys have posted. I have a 1949 convertible that I am having a hard time deciding whether to stay original or go to a resto-rod. I have a 50 starlight coup as a donor front end. So all of your comments and posts are helpful for me to make a decision. Also, does the 50 bullet nose bolt right onto the 49, or do I have to do some modifications?

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                  • #24
                    I've seen a lot of 47-49's with the 50 Bullet Nose. Looks like they bolt right on. Thanks for the A pillar repair pics. Now I'm re-thinking this all over again. Guess I need to see what becomes available to me for repair parts. As far as boxing in rockers front to back, I was just going to weld in new floor braces and box those in, front to back.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 54stude View Post

                      Yes, I would love to see photos of how you made your torque boxes! I have to make a set this winter for my 48 champion convertible project. The floor patching, front and rear body mounts are done, but the next challenge is the torque boxes.
                      Thanks,
                      Brian
                      Brian

                      Here are a couple shots of the hog troughs on my 54K. They are welded to the rocker panels (pinch weld, an "L" shaped piece that connects then to the floor near the drive shaft and another "L" shaped piece in the middle that shows as a pinch weld and is also connected to the floor. You can jack up a wheel and the doors will maintain their gap. It's pretty rigid now.

                      Click image for larger version  Name:	stude body 001.jpg Views:	0 Size:	100.6 KB ID:	1816418
                      Click image for larger version  Name:	stude body 004.jpg Views:	0 Size:	99.3 KB ID:	1816419
                      Hope this helps, Bob

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