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  • SScopelli
    replied
    Here is a post from the Whistler.. This was chemical stripped..

    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
    Progress Progress, Progress..

    Brought the body back from the strippers and it is looking great.
    The body will be getting a good coat of epoxy primer next after some stubborn body putty is removed




















    Here is a post from Hulk Smash..

    It was media blasted and electrotratic primed

    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
    Picked up the body today from Pro-Strip. SaaWeeeeet!

    I knew there were some rust issues and needed repair, and decided to get the body media blasted to expose any thin metal due to rust.

    I also opted for Pro-Strip to apply the electrostatic primer. I will have to repair some section, and repair the primed area, but the primer will not be touched over the majority of the body.

    So when someone says it is a California car, don't assume it is rust free.. Just free rust.. Not complaining.. I love a challenge..


    IMG_0921

    What I did know was that the front floor pans, right and left, definitely needed repair.

    IMG_0915

    IMG_0918

    The rear deck area..

    IMG_0907

    IMG_0906

    Wheel wells

    IMG_0908

    IMG_0917

    Cowl.

    IMG_0912


    But the good is, the majority of the floor is is in great shape as is the trunk and roof..

    IMG_0901

    IMG_0922

    IMG_0900
    2,734

    Many other pictures of restoration of both cars in these threads including frame restorations..

    Enjoy

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    Not looking for rust converter as I am blasting to bare metal.

    I am sure SPI is great stuff. My painter prefers House of Kolor. I suspect it comes down to personal preference. I saw the POR dtm topcoat and thought I would consider it. I do not plan on using POR 15 rust converter.

    Leave a comment:


  • fatboylust
    replied
    Rust converters: comparison, various products applided and left exposed to the weather for a year.

    https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...5&&FORM=VRDGAR

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwight FitzSimons
    replied
    Sorry about the duplicate posts--my fault.
    -Dwight
    Last edited by Dwight FitzSimons; 10-07-2019, 05:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwight FitzSimons
    replied
    Sorry about the duplicate posts--my fault.
    -Dwight
    Last edited by Dwight FitzSimons; 10-07-2019, 05:34 AM.

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  • Dwight FitzSimons
    replied
    POR-15 is supposed to be top coated with some kind of "normal" paint, like a good enamel. The reason for that is that POR-15 will deteriorate when exposed to sunlight. The frame won't see direct sunlight but it will see indirect sunlight. The best way to top coat POR-15 is to spray it with the enamel when it is still tacky. DON'T let the POR-15 dry then try to top coat it!
    -Dwight

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  • 345 DeSoto
    replied
    What Post #18 said...SPI is great stuff....

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  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    Yes going to bare metal. I am more comfortable with the epoxy and 2k urethane. The POR topcoat is interesting because they claim you can put it on bare metal and it comes in chassis black. However, they also state that it works best over regular POR 15. I have read that POR 15 does not adhere well to clean non-rusted metal. Hence my hesitatation to go down that path.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hulleywoodworking
    replied
    Originally posted by 64studeavanti View Post
    I have the frame stripped. It looks to be in excellent condition.
    Any reason why I should use the POR dtm top coat vs epoxy and 2k urethane primer?
    If you are taking it to bare shiny metal, go with the epoxy. Pretty much guaranteed to stick. I am a big fan of Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer, as it is extremely sticky, and tough as nails. SPI recommends spraying 3 or 4 coats on frames and leaving it, without any topcoat. Their epoxy is supposed to hold up to the elements.

    I did a complete restore on a 51 Ford F1 using all SPI products and I couldn't be happier with the results.

    Click image for larger version

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  • 64studeavanti
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    I have the frame stripped. It looks to be in excellent condition. There is a minor tear in the metal at the left rear corner near the rivet. I will weld that up. One of the captured nuts for the body also came lose. I will weld that back in as well. Some P.O. tacked the bolts for the lower a frames to the saddle in front. That made it difficult to remove the front suspension. I have removed the tacked bolts and will grind down the welds.
    I still have the harbor freight sand blasting equipment I used on the Avanti frame, so I plan on giving this frame a go myself.
    I ordered a gallon of POR dtm chassis black. However I am leery of using that . I really do not wish to prep the frame over. I had good results on the Avanti using epoxy primer followed with 2k urethane then a semi-gloss black single stage urethane.
    Any reason why I should use the POR dtm top coat vs epoxy and 2k urethane primer?
    Last edited by 64studeavanti; 10-05-2019, 02:58 PM.

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  • Jeffry Cassel
    replied
    I would use tha Eastwood stuff on the inside. Do what they said . pressure wash the heck out of the frame to try to get the crud out. Do not accept much rust as the frame was not all that sturdy to begin with. I did a frame off on a 56 Hawk years ago and was dismayed to find that it looked okay as far as the Studebaker chassis oiling system went, but there was a lot of rust behind the rear wheels. I cut out the bad and took off the bottom of the frame. Cut a big long chunk of 1/8" steel and welded it to the inside. Using the same stuff I replaced the bottom and it seems a lot stiffer than the original. There must be flexing at this point as well as wheels throwing mud and gravel into the frame. POR-15 the whole thing. The semi-gloss looks like the original paint and it won't come off.

    Leave a comment:


  • tsenecal
    replied
    Eastwood makes a product that sprays through a tube and a spray nozzle inside the frame. You could check it out on their site.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    I was wondering about the inside of the frame. What did Studebaker do, if anything?

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  • swvalcon
    replied
    The dustless blasting is a good idea on the body and sheet metal but the frame I would blast with plain good old sand blasting. Strip the frame of as many parts as possible and blast those separate and have them blast the frame as good as possible. Thing is with a Stude frame it is a square tube and rust forms on the inside that you can't get to. Dripping will clean the inside but then you have bare metal in there that you can't get primer to. So either way is not perfect. Once the body and frame is blasted I would wire brush the frame with a wheel on a grinder and DA the body with at least 80 grit and clean and primer every thing good with epoxy primer. You can do body work right over the epoxy and they don't make much that will stick to metal much better.

    Leave a comment:

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