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Best blasting method

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  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    Originally posted by jbwhttail View Post
    We used glass/water blasting on our GT and were thrilled with the result. As they blasted there was a primer sprayed on the parts and NO rust for over 6 months until we were ready to paint.
    That is what I wanted to hear. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post

    Be careful if you want to preserve the tag. Putting masking tape over it can pull off the black printing, bet you can guess how I know. If I were going to save the tag. I would take a piece of sheet metal larger than the tag, take a piece of heavy garbage bag and pop rivet the sheet metal over the plastic and the tag. When it's all done, remove the metal, weld up the holes and clean off the paint that remains close to the tag.

    Otherwise you are gambling on preserving it if it's important to you.

    Bob
    Great idea!

    Leave a comment:


  • jbwhttail
    replied
    We used glass/water blasting on our GT and were thrilled with the result. As they blasted there was a primer sprayed on the parts and NO rust for over 6 months until we were ready to paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • sweetolbob
    replied
    Originally posted by 64studeavanti View Post

    I will blast it. There are a couple of dustless blasting jobbers near by. Will check them out. I am worried about saving the serial tag as it is pristine!
    Be careful if you want to preserve the tag. Putting masking tape over it can pull off the black printing, bet you can guess how I know. If I were going to save the tag. I would take a piece of sheet metal larger than the tag, take a piece of heavy garbage bag and pop rivet the sheet metal over the plastic and the tag. When it's all done, remove the metal, weld up the holes and clean off the paint that remains close to the tag.

    Otherwise you are gambling on preserving it if it's important to you.

    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    You've started off in a great direction...
    By that I mean you are doing a "body off" restoration rather than a "frame off". Pretty difficult to roll the body over and remove the frame..!

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    replied
    Originally posted by Harryhawk View Post
    No Dipping, it will strip primer and undercoat from places you will never get too. Cheers Harryhawk
    I will blast it. There are a couple of dustless blasting jobbers near by. Will check them out. I am worried about saving the serial tag as it is pristine!

    Leave a comment:


  • Harryhawk
    replied
    No Dipping, it will strip primer and undercoat from places you will never get too. Cheers Harryhawk

    Leave a comment:


  • Noxnabaker
    replied
    If you "needlehammer" the rust craters you just close & keep the rust & it will keep on growing under whatever protection you use on top, & the same for wirebrushing with angle grinder, the speed is to high & you'll just bend the rust tops over eashother. Wirebrushing by hand is better but one will anyway only get the top lose layer off. Done & seen the results on a lot of cars & ships, but few people actually see the later / future result on a car's frame under their car...
    Blast!
    (& on the tugboat we have now was modernised 1958 & the paint they put on then is still sticking GOOD.)
    Last edited by Noxnabaker; 10-07-2019, 12:33 AM.

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  • RadioRoy
    replied
    How about one of those pneumatic needle scalers for the chassis?

    https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-needle-s...xoCUQsQAvD_BwE

    Regarding the body, I have always heard that if the base layer of paint is solidly adhering to the metal, that it was best to not strip to bare metal. That was because adhering the paint to the metal was the most difficult part of the adhesion process. Do the new paint chemistries stick to metal so much better than the old ones?
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 09-23-2019, 09:49 PM.

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  • (S)
    replied
    Most of the frames I have done I had good luck with a scraper and a stiff wire wheel on a buffer machine. It all depends on how much rust you encounter. You can always have them spot sandblast what you can't get at, and the heavier rust. Every car is a bit different. You'll be surprised what a stout brush can do on the end of a buffer.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64studeavanti
    started a topic Best blasting method

    Best blasting method

    All,
    As I stated in another post, I am getting ready to do a restoration of one of my Speedsters. I plan on a body off restore. So, any ideas on how to strip the body and frame down to metal?
    It looks like I can have it sand blasted, dustless blasted, or dipped.
    I am looking to farm this out. I have spent countless hours sand blasting an Avanti frame and stripping the body with D/A sanding and soda blasting and have no desire to go that route again.
    At this point I am leaning toward dustless blasting as it looks like I will have 72 hours to get it in primer before it flash rusts.
    Any feedback?
    Any thing to watch out for?
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