radio

[pitbulllady]

My '61 Lark Cruiser already had an after-market AM-FM cassette in place when I got it, but no antenna, and just that one original speaker that came with the original AM radio, plus two after-market 4-6 speakers hidden on the front kick panels, almost underneath the dash. They're either not hooked up, or blown, since they don't work. I took it in to a car audio place to have them check it out for putting in a modern stereo, since the old radio is gone, anyway. I've got the original AM radio that came with my '51 Champion, but the seller said it doesn't work. I'll try to pursuade my father, who used to mess around a lot with old radios and TVs, to try and fix it, so I can keep that car as original as possible.

pitbulllady

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I spend this last weekend installing my system in the 64 hawk. I have install the CD player c/w(2 gig USB memory stick) under the drivers seat with a universal mount enclosure. Wired the amplifier under the passenger seat. Installed two Clarion 4X6 plate speakers installed under the cardboard shelf with holes cut in the cardboard. I took the rear shelf cardboard and wrapped and stretched with 2 layers of black speaker fabric over the two rear speaker c/w with the single radio speaker in the centre. this makes the two rear speakers invisible. The two front speaker were a problem with little room to install the 5 1/4" inch with separate tweeters under the dash and still get some good sound therefore I am having left and right speaker pods fabricated out of fiberglass and having them painted black positioned in front of the air vents in the kick panels. These pods have the 5 1/4" base speaker on the bottom and the 1" tweeter on the top of pod. I post picture when I get the pods finished

1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I spend this last weekend installing my system in the 64 hawk. I have install the CD player c/w(2 gig USB memory stick) under the drivers seat with a universal mount enclosure. Wired the amplifier under the passenger seat. Installed two Clarion 4X6 plate speakers installed under the cardboard shelf with holes cut in the cardboard. I took the rear shelf cardboard and wrapped and stretched with 2 layers of black speaker fabric over the two rear speaker c/w with the single radio speaker in the centre. this makes the two rear speakers invisible. The two front speaker were a problem with little room to install the 5 1/4" inch with separate tweeters under the dash and still get some good sound therefore I am having left and right speaker pods fabricated out of fiberglass and having them painted black positioned in front of the air vents in the kick panels. These pods have the 5 1/4" base speaker on the bottom and the 1" tweeter on the top of pod. I post picture when I get the pods finished

1964 GT Hawk soon to be R2 Clone

[fpstude]

Thanks to this forum, and information from Greywbl, I've located the 4" x 8" speaker needed for out Lark. I've been looking for years. You find one at a swap meeet, but it has been in the bottom of a box for years. I'll be ordering one in a few days.

Perry
'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT

[fpstude]

Thanks to this forum, and information from Greywbl, I've located the 4" x 8" speaker needed for out Lark. I've been looking for years. You find one at a swap meeet, but it has been in the bottom of a box for years. I'll be ordering one in a few days.

Perry
'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT

[johnesmonde]

I eventually built a 3 sided enclosure (open to the back)for the 62 Hawk to fit on top of the transmission hump between the hump and the lip of the dash. Approx. 12" wide, 9" high and 8" deep. I mounted two 4 inch coaxial Infinity speakers from Future Shop in the bottom section of the enclosure front panel with a Clarion Radio/CD head unit in the top right. The enclosure sits under the dash lip yet behind the portion that dips down by the lighter. The head unit actually sits tight to the dash beside the lighter section. I covered the enclosure with black vinyl and it matches and melts right into the dash.People not completely familiar with the Hawk think it is factory. I use the single mono speaker in the rear shelf hooked to left side only and it sounds great. Custom Audio Sound does have a Dual Voice Coil speaker for the rear which allows both left and right channels to be hooked up to one speaker but I don't think I'll bother. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

[johnesmonde]

I eventually built a 3 sided enclosure (open to the back)for the 62 Hawk to fit on top of the transmission hump between the hump and the lip of the dash. Approx. 12" wide, 9" high and 8" deep. I mounted two 4 inch coaxial Infinity speakers from Future Shop in the bottom section of the enclosure front panel with a Clarion Radio/CD head unit in the top right. The enclosure sits under the dash lip yet behind the portion that dips down by the lighter. The head unit actually sits tight to the dash beside the lighter section. I covered the enclosure with black vinyl and it matches and melts right into the dash.People not completely familiar with the Hawk think it is factory. I use the single mono speaker in the rear shelf hooked to left side only and it sounds great. Custom Audio Sound does have a Dual Voice Coil speaker for the rear which allows both left and right channels to be hooked up to one speaker but I don't think I'll bother. I can send pictures if anyone is interested.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

[1950Champ]

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

[1950Champ]

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

[JDP]

Buy this modern, solid state version.


http://www.radiodaze.com/auto-radios.htm

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[JDP]

Buy this modern, solid state version.


http://www.radiodaze.com/auto-radios.htm

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

Spence, another source for capacitors and solid-state vibrator replacements is Antique Electronics Supply, http://www.tubesandmore.com/

You MUST replace the buffer capacitor connected across the secondary of the vibrator transformer. It will be a paper capacitor rated at 1600 volts, the only one in the radio rated at that voltage. You SHOULD replace the electrolytic capacitors, and all the paper capacitors, too. They typically cost between 50 cents and a buck apiece, and there aren't so many that the cost of replacing them will break you.

There are numerous Websites that go into considerable detail on the process of tube radio restoration; let me know if you want a few more links. Just Googling for "antique radio" will turn up a bunch, though.

BTW, it's normal for vibrators to make a low hum. Again, replace the buffer capacitor. The old one is probably shorted, or about to short, and it will kill your vibrator instantly, and it will kill a solid-state one even faster.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by 1950Champ

I would prefer to fix the radio myself here during the summer, where can I order replacement electrolytic capacitors that Clark mentioned? Also, there is no noise at all from the radio when running, humming etc. A guy said the vibrator should also be replaced as it should be making noise, is this true, and where would I get a replacement? The radio is a Philco s4927, for a 1950.
Thanks,
Spence

Spence, another source for capacitors and solid-state vibrator replacements is Antique Electronics Supply, http://www.tubesandmore.com/

You MUST replace the buffer capacitor connected across the secondary of the vibrator transformer. It will be a paper capacitor rated at 1600 volts, the only one in the radio rated at that voltage. You SHOULD replace the electrolytic capacitors, and all the paper capacitors, too. They typically cost between 50 cents and a buck apiece, and there aren't so many that the cost of replacing them will break you.

There are numerous Websites that go into considerable detail on the process of tube radio restoration; let me know if you want a few more links. Just Googling for "antique radio" will turn up a bunch, though.

BTW, it's normal for vibrators to make a low hum. Again, replace the buffer capacitor. The old one is probably shorted, or about to short, and it will kill your vibrator instantly, and it will kill a solid-state one even faster.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[1950Champ]

Will replacing the vibrator with a 12v negative ground make the radio ready to hook up to the car which has been converted to 12v, or do lots of other things need to be done?

[1950Champ]

Will replacing the vibrator with a 12v negative ground make the radio ready to hook up to the car which has been converted to 12v, or do lots of other things need to be done?