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  • Drip rail

    I'm getting ready to blast the body (w/ black beauty) and was going to remove the chrome part of the drip rail so it wont get etched,...how do you get this thing off w/o trashing it?

    Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by madmike
    ...how do you get this thing off w/o trashing it?

    You don't (well, some have...but they are few).

    Tape it up.



    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA



    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      What he said. I've heard of people removing it with a bottle opener, but you won't find me trying it!

      MUCH easier to tape it. [xx(]

      Matthew Burnette
      Hazlehurst, GA

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      • #4
        I'm gonna have to concentrate a fair amount of pressure around the rail as there is a bunch of dried/cracked/scaly crud accumulated all around the rail, what tape will stand up?

        Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

        Comment


        • #5
          1st off, I have removed that trim at least a dozen times. I have never gotten it off totally unscathed... but the "damage" was minor and easily corrected. The secret is patience...
          I just sent the "How-To" to another Forum member via e-mail (yesterday)... so I guess I'm off to make up a new Ray-Lin Technical Page....

          In the interim... E-mail me and I will forward the writeup to you (including pics). I can't do it through the forum..


          quote:Originally posted by madmike

          I'm gonna have to concentrate a fair amount of pressure around the rail as there is a bunch of dried/cracked/scaly crud accumulated all around the rail, what tape will stand up?
          IF you decide to leave it on .... Use 2-layers of duct-tape. Before blasting, Use a painter's 5-way putty knife to dig out the old seam-sealer. Then get a small thin 2 1/2" diameter (or bigger) STEEL (not brass) wire wheel on a shaft that will mount on a HIGH SPEED die-grinder (a drill won't work). Use that to clean the drip channel. After you've cleaned the channel, you won't have to do much more than a quick sweep over the channel during blasting...





          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
          Ray

          www.raylinrestoration.com
          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

          Comment


          • #6
            Mike,
            If it is the hardtop that you are removing the Regal trim from and removing the stainless insert in the front and rear windshield rubber, perhaps you should just remove that drip rail trim and leave it off.



            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA



            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

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            • #7
              We used to use a thick (compared to regular electrical tape) rubber tape used for high voltage applications. The rubber withstood the abrasive blast better than duct tape.

              Jim

              _________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________Rabid Snail Racing
              Jim
              Often in error, never in doubt
              http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

              ____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________http://rabidsnailracing.blogspot.com/

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              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

                Mike,
                If it is the hardtop that you are removing the Regal trim from and removing the stainless insert in the front and rear windshield rubber, perhaps you should just remove that drip rail trim and leave it off.



                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA



                It is, and I was thinking of doing just that (literally wiz-wheeling the entire drip rail off the roof) I just didn't want to do something so irreversable w/o cking my options w/ you guys first.

                Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

                Comment


                • #9
                  [/quote]It is, and I was thinking of doing just that (literally wiz-wheeling the entire drip rail off the roof) I just didn't want to do something so irreversable w/o cking my options w/ you guys first.[/quote]

                  A few items to consider....

                  Don't drive in the rain with the window down even a tiny bit... and I hope you have great success sealing up the front door weatherstrip (especially a hardtop)... Keep a shop-vac handy when you wash it... to dry the front carpet at the kickpanels (which will have to be changed to plastic or other waterproof material)

                  That channel probably saved more floorboards than POR-15 (at least prevented the rust for a long while)...

                  Ray


                  Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
                  Ray

                  www.raylinrestoration.com
                  Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Mike, he said drip rail trim, not drip rail![:0]
                    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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                    • #11
                      trust me, I won't be the first guy to throw caution to the wind (and rain in the doors) by cutting the drip rail completely off the car. I am not firing the die-grinder up just yet, that's why I'm doing a little homework here first before the sparks start to fly.

                      Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        IMHO, I like the look of the front drip rail removed, but the function of leaving the sides if you're seriously considering taking a die grinder to it. Here's a pic of my old '62 Hawk with a '53 front end that I did this mod to. It's hard to make out in the pics since it is a subtle mod, but it makes the roof look a little cleaner front the front. I basically removed and welded/ground the front off, then slit the sides just behind the posts and contoured them into the roof. I figured if it was raining I would have the wipers on anyway. Just something to consider

                        http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...78480179bHjuuy




                        http://community.webshots.com/user/s...host=community

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                        • #13
                          It's too late.....I cut em' off. "Don't look Ethel!!!"

                          Seriously, I'm glad I did. The roof line is smoother, the sides blend into the quarters, and since I'm gonna get rid of the potmetal trim at the base of windows, It balances everything out. It's gonna be sooo cool![8D]

                          Don't talk about what you are going to do,... talk about what you have DONE.

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                          • #14
                            Dont, whatever you do, use a bottle opener! I took my 66 to have the new vinyl top installed after I painted it in 89 & he used the bottle opener on my drip mouldings & dented them all up. I was so ticked, but the damage was already done. What I have done on other cars is use a putty knife under the lower edge & gently pry it off the drip rail. Start at one end & go VERY SLOWLY, lifting the edge down & out as you go. I wish I had the forsight when my 66 was done, but hindsight is always 20-20.

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                            • #15
                              Can you post some pics, Mike? What about the strip of metal left behind? And does anybody else have pics of this after paint? And has anybody else besides me used taillight housing tops to finish off the front of the quarter panel stainless strip?

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