Chassis re-inforcement

[madmike]

Hello guys,

I am building my first stude. I bought a pretty decent 53 champion hard top. I am building the car as a resto-rod, and it will see a significant amount of power from a twin turbocharged 4.6L sohc ford motor (600 rwhp)

In my conversations w/ some others, I've learned that the chassis was/is way too flexible before [u]any</u> power gets put to the road (i.e. just jacking one corner to change a tire/put it on jackstands) Much less the power I anticipate I'll have. I plan to "x" the chassis w/ double 1.125 round tube, the question is this....
In addition to significantly stiffining the frame, will I need to add additional stiffining structure to the body as well, and if so,....where? This isn't a race car, although the theme isn't far off from that. There will be a complete 4 bucket seat interior, A/C, 4 power windows,....all the usual street rod stuff...

Well,....This is ANOTHER fine mess I've gotten myself into.

[madmike]

Sorry forgot that I actually have TWO questions: The second is When I separate the body from the chassis, what happens if I rigid mount (NO more tire sidewall body bushings) and use metal in place of the rubber?

If that turns out to be ill advised, where do I get the replacement bushings?

Well,....This is ANOTHER fine mess I've gotten myself into.

[Swifster]

Mike, I haven't got far enough for it to be an issue yet, but I was hoping to find a supplier of urethane bushings. Stronger/stiffer than rubber and more giving than solid.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

[Studeman]

Find and swap the chassis from a 62-64 GT Hawk. It's a direct bolt-on except for the removal of (2) body-brackets just in front of the wheel arch. You may wish to X the frame on that anyway also, but it is a MUCH stiffer frame than the '53's.
You can stiffen the body of the '53 by adding (2) layers of heavy fiberglass CLOTH (for boats) to the entire floor, and 4" up the cowl, kick-panels, and beside the rear seat. DO NOT put any in the rear footwells.. it doesn't help, and the carpet fits better. Don't need any in the trunk.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

Here's what I did to mine in anticipation of a Twin-Turbo Stude powerplant:

http://rides.webshots.com/slideshow/453747682GrpcCM

This car/project is for sale if anyone is interested!!!!

http://community.webshots.com/user/s...host=community

[Warren Webb]

I would consider reinforcing the frame from behind the engine crossmember to just in front of the front seat area. I have a 63 Hawk & can detect the frame flex in the gas pedal when going over a large dip. Since the Hawk has a flat metal section welded to the bottom, I have thought about removing it & inserting square metal tubing, buttonhole welding it from the outside of the frame section, both inside & outside the frame, then welding on a new, lower plate where the prior existing plate was, only slightly thicker guage.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[madmike]

quote:Originally posted by Studeman

Find and swap the chassis from a 62-64 GT Hawk. It's a direct bolt-on except for the removal of (2) body-brackets just in front of the wheel arch. You may wish to X the frame on that anyway also, but it is a MUCH stiffer frame than the '53's.
You can stiffen the body of the '53 by adding (2) layers of heavy fiberglass CLOTH (for boats) to the entire floor, and 4" up the cowl, kick-panels, and beside the rear seat. DO NOT put any in the rear footwells.. it doesn't help, and the carpet fits better. Don't need any in the trunk.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

Hey thanks for all of the input, I really appreciate all of speedy replies.

The existing chassis has to stay, It has already been heavily modified front and rear ( mustang II ifs, 2002 mustang 8.8 rear with the chassis modified to accomodate the factory 4 link suspension.
I am going to do something very similar to what w carroll has done to his only I'm gonna use 1.250 1/8th wall round tubing like what you see done by some of the aftermarket chassis' for other rods you see around. I just got done installing a main roll bar that I bent-up out of 1.625 1/8th wall tubing that bolts in w/ two 1.1/4 bars making up an overhead console for lateral support forward, and I'm gonna make two rear facing bars that'll double as the support for the rear arm rests. I also plan to "hide" another 1.1/4 bar that spans from fender to fender under the dash, and another that'll do the same under the package tray behind the rear seat.

From the firewall, I'm gonna fabricate two more bars that run under the fenders and tie into the new front subframe right where the fender bolts to the frame. If the thing still twists after all of that, either I have too much power, or studebaker must've used that rarely used alloy poly-butyl-anium

The other question I have, Is about the fiberglass you recommended for body stiffining,.....If the chassis flexes so bad on cars like these,...what keeps the fiberglass from cracking/splitting as a result of the twisting thats going on underneath all of that 'glass?


Although there's not much to see,...I have an entire website dedicated to the build-up of this thing. You can click on the "see mikes homepage" link at the top of each reply. I'll warn you in advance though, I have cut the hell out of what some of you guys will see as a perfectly good car.

Well,....This is ANOTHER fine mess I've gotten myself into.

[sweetolbob]

Don't forget to add the frame member to door support that was added in 1954. My 54 was a true flexi-flyer when I jacked it up before the floor replacement. I added 18 gauge floors and bigger and stiffer reinforcing boxes under the body. When I replaced the body on the frame, I used rock crusher rubber/fabric conveyor belting and steel shims. It's probably not a drag car, but when you jack it up, it has little flex.