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    My Avanti is in finish primer,I will wet sand it for paint.(it is already edged in in color),and I will supply the base coat color here is the real question,what do you guys think it will cost me to have a proffesional shop paint urathane basecoat/clearcoat and buff? then to have the front and rear bumpers re-chromed? the tail light bodies,and front park light bodies re-chromed? and to have the front and rear seat covers installed?(I will buy the seat covers and supply them to the upolstry shop)and lastly to have a glass shop install the windshield and rear window?

    Joseph R. Zeiger
    Joseph R. Zeiger

  • #2
    Well, it could vary wildly depending on your local shops and the level of finish that you desire. Some paint shops will refuse jobs in which they didn't do the prep and primer. Some chrome shops will not do Avanti bumpers - it is harder to do Avanti chrome and not have it come out wavy than most people would suspect.

    You really need to start contacting your local shops and talk with them about your car. If it is not driveable then you should trailer it over for them to estimate the job.

    Take your time and inspect other work they have done.

    One question: if you need a paint shop then who did the edging in of the paint?

    Although it is a moot point because your local area may differ: local to me, paint jobs that would make me happy seem to run from the middle $4,000 to ~ $6,000+ for a regular paint color to a good finish. Much less for budget 10' paint that I would not consider. More for candies and pearls, graphics, etc. The cheap chromers get ~ $300 for a pair of bumpers, show chrome is triple that - or more if there are serious defects in the bumpers. I'm not sure how many hours labor to allow for Avanti seat covers, I would not be suprised for a decent shop to charge $300 to $600 labor.



    Long time hot rodder
    Packrat junk collector
    '63 Avanti R2 4 speed


    • #3
      We can give you estimates all over the place...your BEST estimates will be from local shops...hopefully ones you know or have a recommendation for.

      Also, if you are going to do the prep for paint, make sure you work closely with the shop that will be doing the actual painting. For example, I don't believe wet sanding (especially high build primer) prior to painting is an accepted practice.

      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA


      • #4
        I want to second Dick on not wet sanding the primer.It is not waterproof and can cause problems in the final finish in short order.$8500 for show paint on the 53 here,I would expect more for a fiberglass car.Steve


        • #5
          I could see some caution on wetsanding a steel car, but on a fiberglas car, I absolutely see no problem whatsoever. Don't spray in high humidity or cool temperatures and make sure your surface is clean and dry, just like it says on the can.


          • #6
            I have always wet sanded primer because when you wipe it with a small rubber block (squeege) you can see all the imperfections that may remain. when i painted my Avanti, I used a catilized primer from PPG. That stuff was rock hard when it dried & took me on the average 2 1/2 hrs per panel to wet sand for paint, but the finished product was well worth the effort. While primer is not a substitute for topcoat for if left to the environment, in time, it will allow rust to form. By the same token, any paint, if neglected will break down & deteriorate, as a visit to any parking area of a mall will testify.
            I have worked in many body shops for over 40 plus years and never have seen a comeback due to wet sanding the primer, not even the water born primers that are now required useage in this area.

            60 Lark convertible
            61 Champ
            62 Daytona convertible
            63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2)
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto


            • #7
              Back in the early 80s I painted a Camaro for a guy that did his own bodywork; although the bodywork wasn't perfect it came out really nice.

              He brought it to me already masked and "ready to shoot". The agreement was I was to degrease, spray a non-sanding sealer, and shoot the color. I gave him the speech about how there were NO guarantees being that I had no idea what his body/prep work were like, to which he agreed.

              He brought it in the morning. I had the shop ready to go, got it in, and the paint was done that day. He was up my behind the whole time, except when it was time to spray; came to my house knocking on my door an hour before opening time the next day to see if he could get my key to go to the shop and go in and pull the masking

              He loved the job, and went on and on about it. He took it home and totally ignored my instructions and tried buffing it, burning through the paint in a few spots. I fixed them free, and he put the car back together.

              You can guess what happened... he drove the car for about 8 months and then calls me with "hey, we've got a problem". Turned out he fixed rust by putting Tiger Hair and fiberglass cloth over rust holes, because he was told that would be a great repair, and it must have been my paint failing that was causing the bubbling. I told him to get lost and ended up getting SUED for the $300 I charged him, plus $2500 to repair the car. Of course, the case was thrown out, but not before I had a lot of grief and worry, and an unhappy customer out bad-mouthing me.

              Of course I learned my lesson: NEVER PAINT A CAR ON WHICH I HADN'T DONE THE BODYWORK. Therefore you may have trouble finding a shop who wil spray it for you, as any number of improper steps in the surface prep can cause paint problems; wax or oil not fully removed before primer, primer or sealer that's incompatible with the paint, etc. Painting over even a little spot of wax not removed will cause a lovely effect called "fisheye"... basically the paint breaks into a series of little craters[xx(] This requires stopping, sanding off the paint and substrates under it, cleaning it correctly, and starting over. You can see how this can really jam up a working shop's schedule...

              None of this is meant to scare anyone; just to give some perspective on what shops may think.

              By "finish primer" do you mean sealer, or the last coat of primer-surfacer? Yes, you can wet-sand sealer, but that is designed to be sprayed just before the color is shot- i.e. shoot sealer, dry 20 minutes, recheck surface for foreign materials or problems, spray color. If that's what you have, it will NEED to be sanded to get the paint to adhere properly.

              Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
              Parish, central NY 13131

              "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

              "With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"


              • #8
                This is the deal with my finish primer is:I primed,blocked,and re-primed for a light sealer is on the car yet.the question was asked who edged the car?I did all the stripping,bodywork,priming blocking and re-priming,and edged the car in about 3 years painting the car is out of the question for me,as arthritis has set in more holding the gun up stretched over the car is to much of a chore,and can'nt chance it!I've been out of the body business almost 10 years now,I could be wrong but I would think a two part primer would not absorb water from wet sanding as it is cured,not like laquer primer that is just air dried,though I have no problem at all with dry blocking.thanks for all the input from you current technicians.

                Joseph R. Zeiger
                Joseph R. Zeiger


                • #9
                  When evaluating work from a shop, Do NOT go by what the shop does for itself (on their own vehicles), but rather look at work done for ordinary customers.

                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer
                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer


                  • #10
                    I would go by who sprayed what. Just because a certain shop turned out a few nice jobs doesn't mean that same guy is gonna shoot your car. I would want to see work done by the guy who is going to be the one who does my car. Seen too many mottled metallics and streaks.