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Project 62 hawk

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  • TWChamp
    replied
    The brake lines seal with a double flare, while the hoses seal with a copper flat washer. Where exactly is the leak?

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  • Captain_Red_Beard
    replied
    Okay so now that all that is sorted out since I replaced the brake cylinder now it’s leaking from the line that connects to there should I replace the line or is there supposed to be a seal?

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  • Captain_Red_Beard
    replied
    Okay so after checking I found the slave was frozen but to my luck I was digging around the trunk and found a brand new set guess the old man was already on the right path lol
    Last edited by Captain_Red_Beard; 06-15-2019, 11:59 AM.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    [QUOTE=56GH;1161167]
    Originally posted by rkapteyn View Post

    My bad! Whoever did before I had the car sure made it easy for me when I replaced the drums bought from S-I though! The new-looking studs were installed perfectly and the drum fits tightly over them.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]81736[/ATTACH]

    That is what I call a, "free floating" drum, and is an excellent replacement. Notice there is about 500 percent more, "meat" in the area around the stud holes. Not that the OEM thin, tin area there was ever a problem, but the extra meat is nice. It calls for longer studs though.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    Whatever the problem is, it should be easy to diagnose. There is NO problem with running the drums free floating on the hubs. The swedging from yesterdecade was overkill, and most car companies that stayed in business into the 70s-80s dropped the idea. The external bevel on the lug nuts, when drawn down into the internal bevel on the wheels, (combined with the squish between the wheel backside and hub flange) will center the wheel and hold it there, and take up the side load when the brakes are applied. The holes in your drum appear to be in good condition. But if the wheel holes are wallowed out, that's a problem in itself.

    As long as the drum in not warped it should be OK, and warpage is easy enough to check. Bolt the drum back on and spin it around, using a dial indicator to check runout.

    In looking at the pix, my guess: The drums were not turned when new shoes were installed. The un-turned drums have became bell-mouthed, and when you tighten the lug nuts, they bind on the outer edges of the new shoes. Look closely at the edges of the shoes, and inside the drums near the wall for evidence. To test, back the shoe adjustment off by about 12 clicks and re-check the drag. If this is the problem, simply turn the drum (hopefully there's enough meat left), and don't forget to turn the other drum while you are at it. Make sure the lathe operator cuts the drum all the way back to the wall, or that will create other problems.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 06-13-2019, 11:51 AM.

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  • 56GH
    replied
    [QUOTE=rkapteyn;1160093]
    Originally posted by 56GH View Post
    Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]81487[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]81488[/ATTACH]
    Those are not flanged axles.
    Someone pulled the drums off the hubs and probably ruined the drums by removing them without first cutting the stacked area around the studs.
    My bad! Whoever did before I had the car sure made it easy for me when I replaced the drums bought from S-I though! The new-looking studs were installed perfectly and the drum fits tightly over them.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Topper2011
    replied
    It looks like the pistons are seized in the wheel cylinder as they seem to be sticking out further than normal. Forcing the drum off has caused them to ride up.

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  • Captain_Red_Beard
    replied
    ok ill check the shoes and report back i hope its not the drums because i havnt found one less than $200
    also someone asked where i am located i am in so cal specifically meniffee.

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  • Mrs K Corbin
    replied
    Holy CR4P. I just noticed, it's in post# 2? That's seriously FUBAR. yeah, I think you pegged it. better check and see what shoes go on there, that don't look right.

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  • SScopelli
    replied
    Yes, the rear drum should be penned to the wheel studs, but that is not the issue.

    I think you have the front shoes on the rear, or just the wrong size rear shoes, as in big drum rear shoes..

    These will never work.

    That is why the rods from the wheel cylinder are at an angle

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  • chet445
    replied
    There is something askew with the wheel cylinder and how the push rods are at an angle. Are the brake shoes the correct ones? The setup is not correct.

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  • Mrs K Corbin
    replied
    I agree with rkapteyn, possible that the hub may be racked up, also if the wrong puller was used to remove the drum at some point, that could be a problem too.....
    Then again it may just have been done this way on purpose, as I would have done so at some point after properly removing the assembly and seperating the 2 and installing new studs without the swage as an experiment.

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  • Harryhawk
    replied
    Are the wheel cylinder pistons correct size. Cheers

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  • hank63
    replied
    I'd think there is something strange about the wheel cylinder push rods in the photo from Captain Red Beard. I've worked on a few different make cars and always the pushrods have been in a straight line, like in the photo from 56H.

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  • bensherb
    replied
    If the drums have been PROPERLY removed from the hubs, there is no problem using them as a seperate piece from the hub, as long as stock lug studs are used so they will center the drum. It shouldn't matter but I do make sure to put the drum back on the hub in the same place it originally was; just because.

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