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  • Project 62 hawk

    Okay so my wife is a fresh owner of a 62 hawk her grandfather left to her. It is in decent shape well a good start. The car sat for about 10 years here in California, but Herein lies the problems for starters the power steering pump is no good, also the rear right wheel locks up when I tighten the lugs? I replaced the shoes and checked the drum but I don’t see an issue I’m just dumbfounded by this? I drove the car around for about 10min and the wheel felt very tight so I lifted the rear end to check and it was almost in turn able so I proceeded to unassemble and find the odd issue. Than I limped it into the garage and the left side tires went flat followed by the power steering puking atf so the tires might have been the issue there.

  • #2
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    • #3
      Sounds like Grandpas car needs a little TLC due to lack of use. Not sure what to think of the brake issue. Is the drum pushing in far enough to hit the backing plate? Or the tire and wheel may have to much offset, allowing it to hit the chassis when tightened down. It may not be the wheel that was on the car when it was being driven. There should be others here that will have some ideas to check. The power steering pump may need to be rebuilt or replaced, but you could try fresh oil. Things could be a little sticky with the oil being 10 years old. Hope you get things figured out, and squared away, so that you can enjoy driving it.

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      • #4
        The brake drum should have been swaged onto the hub. If the drum was pulled off over the swages without grinding the swages away first, it's likely bent and binding against the brake shoes. If the swages were removed before removing the drum and the drum is not bent, it may not be sitting correctly over the sholders of the lug studs and twisting when tightened; binding the drum against the brake shoes.

        New fluid might help the steering pump, it did with mine, but check that the hose fittings are tight. They are very difficult to get a wrench on and tighten well. It could also be leaking where the resrevoir is attached to the pump, check that while it's empty when you change fluid.
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Someone correct me if I am wrong, but that does look like an original pressed on Hub/Drum. If so, then you probably need to replace it, as they are a unit and takes a special puller to get off..
          Someone really needs to produce a youtube video on this and make a sticky. Looks like you have a ruined drum assembly. How did you pull it off?

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          • #6
            Where in California are you located as there are people here that may be able to help you with your problems? If you pulled the drum off of the hub, it is almost a guarantee that you will have to replace the drum. Bud

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            • #7
              ditto; be sure axle is shimmed correctly and then replace the drum.

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              • #8
                In the first picture, I hope the shoes simply got bumped upward, because those 2 pins from the wheel cylinder sure are at the wrong angle.

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                • #9
                  Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

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                  Bill L.
                  1962 GT Hawk

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                  • #10
                    How did you remove the brake drum? Was it previously disconnected from the hub?
                    The brake shoes and/or the wheel cylinder appear to be incorrect.
                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                    • #11
                      Yes I agree that someone pulled the drums from the hubs and should not have done that!
                      Many times people have problems removing the hub and drum assembly and after they get them off
                      and want to reinstall them they put some anti-seize or grease on the taper.
                      That is wrong! The taper on the axle shaft should be clean and dry and so should be the inside of the hub , no lubricant.
                      If you put anti-seize or grease on the taper , when you tighten the nut on the axle the taper will keep going on too far and crack the hub. The brake drum will rack up on the backing plate.

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                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=56GH;1160066]Is that the correct wheel cylinder? It looks a little long to me -- but maybe it's just the photo. Here's what my 1962 GT Hawk rear wheel looks like with flanged axles.

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                        Those are not flanged axles.
                        Someone pulled the drums off the hubs and probably ruined the drums by removing them without first cutting the stacked area around the studs.

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                        • #13
                          Captain Red Beard, FWIW I think the shoes are wrong, you should have a primary shoe that has a shorter lining, the circumference doesn't look right and if they are binding the depth of the shoe could be wrong. Cheers

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                          • #14
                            If the drums have been PROPERLY removed from the hubs, there is no problem using them as a seperate piece from the hub, as long as stock lug studs are used so they will center the drum. It shouldn't matter but I do make sure to put the drum back on the hub in the same place it originally was; just because.
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              I'd think there is something strange about the wheel cylinder push rods in the photo from Captain Red Beard. I've worked on a few different make cars and always the pushrods have been in a straight line, like in the photo from 56H.

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