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  • Serial number tags

    Hi all. Looking for a vendor who can recreate the serial number tag for the 58 golden hawk I am helping my 89 year old father restore... He said he was at a swap meet a few years back someone was there doing tags but out of the correct one for the hawk.. ours was painted over by someone else with epoxy primer. Ugh! Any info would be appreciated

  • #2
    Your best bet is probably to sand that paint off with very Fine wet or Dry sandpaper 1200 grit, or a torch because the IMPORTANT thing on the Serial Number Plate the serial number is engraved into it.

    I would not cut that original welded-on Plate off.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      Decals are available for some models to replace the printed part.
      Don Wilson, Centralia, WA

      40 Champion 4 door*
      50 Champion 2 door*
      53 Commander K Auto*
      53 Commander K overdrive*
      55 President Speedster
      62 GT 4Speed*
      63 Avanti R1*
      64 Champ 1/2 ton

      * Formerly owned

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      • #4
        Welcome to the SDC Forum!
        If the S/N plate is still there do not remove it. Carefully remove the primer. Reproduction decals are made for the printed on part. The important part is the stamped S/N. S/N plates that have been removed and either reattached or replaced never look quite original/correct.
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

        Comment


        • #5
          Take a steel razor blade and scrape the edge of the plate at an angle. It should start 'flaking' the paint off. Now take 150 Grit and sand it in one direction just a few times. Do not sand through. Then Lay a rag soaked in Laq thinner or acetone on it. You'll need to tape it prior to soaking it so it does not fall off. It should stay 'wet' at least an hour. The thinner will go into the scratches and lift the primer into a goo. Use a plastic razor blade to scrape the mess off once it starts to get soft.

          Making sure all traces of any thinner are gone- You can also 'flick it' with a Mapp gas torch and it will make the material brittle and it may scrape off or fall off. Do not overheat it, keep moving, turn the torch on and off and just heat it until the first sign of smoke.

          Sanding with super fine also works but very very time consuming if there is more than one coat of anything..

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by (S) View Post
            Take a steel razor blade and scrape the edge of the plate at an angle. It should start 'flaking' the paint off. Now take 150 Grit and sand it in one direction just a few times. Do not sand through. Then Lay a rag soaked in Laq thinner or acetone on it. You'll need to tape it prior to soaking it so it does not fall off. It should stay 'wet' at least an hour. The thinner will go into the scratches and lift the primer into a goo. Use a plastic razor blade to scrape the mess off once it starts to get soft.

            Making sure all traces of any thinner are gone- You can also 'flick it' with a Mapp gas torch and it will make the material brittle and it may scrape off or fall off. Do not overheat it, keep moving, turn the torch on and off and just heat it until the first sign of smoke.

            Sanding with super fine also works but very very time consuming if there is more than one coat of anything..
            Thanks for the help! I'm on it. Going to be doing a 60 hawk that is missing the plate altogether... Any thoughts on that?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by BSick1 View Post
              Thanks for the help! I'm on it. Going to be doing a 60 hawk that is missing the plate altogether... Any thoughts on that?
              Sure - Cut a stainless steel plate to the correct size and shape. Get the S/N stamped or even engraved into the plate. Attach a repro decal of the printed part. Attach the plate to the A-pillar with good double stick tape (not screws).
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                OR, use the good advice in Gary's Post #7 AND make it absolutely PERMANENT, install it with "Fuser" the Body Panel cold welding adhesive sold at Auto Paint Stores.

                Just do NOT try to use an incorrect Serial Number that does not match the Frame, because Law Enforcement and Motor Vehicle Licensing Dept's. know about the "secret" Serial Number on the bottom of the lower, rear flange of the rearmost crossmember.
                Last edited by StudeRich; 05-02-2019, 01:09 AM.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                Comment


                • #9
                  Can do the plate. Just got to find someone with the correct stamps or maybe an engraver is the answer.
                  Secret serial number? If it exists I'm screwed... Body from one car frame from another.... I ain't scared of the law... 😁

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Authorities Looking for the Frame Serial Number rarely ever happens, just usually when Titling a car with None, or in some States an out of State Car.

                    Here in Washington, the State Patrol checks all available Serials, data etc. on Cars, Trucks, Trailers that are New home built or other construction, and all Vehicles without Signed, Dated current Titles to be transferred.

                    What they do is find those numbers and match to any others and or paperwork and then approve a Registration as a vehicle with "Title in Question", then after 3 Years if unclaimed by anyone else, then you can go to THEM AGAIN and PAY, Pay, pay some more, to get the title. Very Nice and friendly as they Rip you!

                    Oh by the way, the Inspection and Verification of correct (Serial Number) VIN Number, is a flat Fee of $100.00 to Start.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      Oh by the way, the Inspection and Verification of correct (Serial Number) VIN Number, is a flat Fee of $100.00 to Start.
                      That's straight robbery! Here in Ohio you can have a VIN inspection done at any used car lot. It usually runs about 5 or 10 bucks, depending on the location.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BSick1 View Post
                        Can do the plate. Just got to find someone with the correct stamps or maybe an engraver is the answer.
                        Secret serial number? If it exists I'm screwed... Body from one car frame from another.... I ain't scared of the law... ������
                        Studebaker stamped the serial number on the rear fame crossmember so that on the assembly line workers could make sure that the correct body was mated with the correct fame.
                        These numbers were stamped very lightly and most of the time , rust made them unreadable and in cases of frame swaps you can take a piece of "Dymo"tape with the correct number and stick it over the original and cover it with some spay undercoating followed by dust and no-one would be the wiser.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I love that idea. NY is easy to register any car older than 1972 as titles didn't exist till then and there was a fire that destroyed all vehicle records prior to that! It's the only thing NY doesn't kill you at... Prob next year I'll have to make the stude all electric!...😁

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                          • #14
                            I have been looking around for the decal... Can't find them SI not listed in catalog. Looked online didn't find one ... Any idea who sells them?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BSick1 View Post
                              I love that idea. NY is easy to register any car older than 1972 as titles didn't exist till then and there was a fire that destroyed all vehicle records prior to that! It's the only thing NY doesn't kill you at... Prob next year I'll have to make the stude all electric!...������
                              1973 model year, not 1972, is the first title year in NYS.
                              Gary L.
                              Wappinger, NY

                              SDC member since 1968
                              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                              Comment

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