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1962 Hawk Restoration

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  • #31
    My 63 Hawk is getting 14 mpg combination city/hwy., though I must confess the hwy speeds weren’t normal cruise speeds. Replacing the lower control arm bushings this week, other than those ive never had issues with rattles, vibrations or squeaks, sound car to ride. My wife thinks it’s loud, but she’s used to modern wheels.

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    • #32
      Well back to my not-too-nice '62. The engine was rebuilt per the previous owner and had abt 6K on it; it was running with 40 lbs oil pressure when the engine was cold then dropped to 10 when warmed up...and never changed regardless of speed. I'm rebuilding the engine and installing electronic ignition. The car IS and was a basket case although it looked great. I'm stubborn enough to hang in there and it will be a 45-50K investment when done. Tires were replaced. I should have sold it to someone else way back when; there is not anything on the car that I have missed working on... just ask SDI. UGH, UGH!!

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      • #33
        Ya shoulda dragged it to Albion like I said! ....
        Seriously, tho. Make sure you take your time on that engine and get ALL the galley plugs out before it's hot-tanked.
        Then bore brush, bore brush and then some more.
        Do that engine properly, and don't let Just anyone machine it.
        It's a little different than your common 350 chevy.

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        • #34
          Got Ceci's 62 Hawk out yesterday and drove it to body shop to repair mystery scratch. All hardtops will rattle a bit. Her car just cruises down the rode so nice. Chet , your car isn't right!! Finding why can be a night mare. Obvious first bent drive shaft or bad U-joints? Bent wheels or tires that sat too long and flat-spotted. All Prestolite stuff is somewhat problematic. Got Champion plugs in it? Timing? points? plug wires? Trans tailshaft bushing- no one ever thinks of them. Suspect springs; I've never bought a coil spring that was right. Some are so stiff they'll shake the fillings out of your teeth. WCFB? good carb might re-jet and set it up again is choke going off when warm? Get an old-timer mechanic to drive/ride and see what he says. Who did the work?? Most mechanics nowadays only know how to look at a gadget and do whatever it says.

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          • #35
            Chet, if you want to feel better about your car, just have a look at the thread on my Hawk.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by wdills View Post
              I like the suggestion on checking the tires. My 61 got a frame off restoration with new wheels and new redial tires. But the first year of driving while I was still sorting out various issues, the one constant was that it shook a lot above about 50 mph. I replaced U joint and balanced the drive shaft and brake drums but nothing helped. Finally I found a shop that could do an on-car tire balance. Once that was done the car will run the interstate at 75 mph just as smooth as my 2018 daily driver.

              They seem to be few and far between now, but ask around your local old car guys and see if anyone can suggest a shop that does on-car balancing. It sure worked for me.
              There was a thread a few years ago wherein a fellow finally solved his vibration problem by balancing the brake drums on his truck, That's something to consider.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #37
                Ceci's 62 has 30psi oil pressure cold and 15 psi warm idle. I worry about that, but if it had an idiot light rather than a gage, the light would never come on. Maybe they are not so bad! Ceci bought me a VAC Case a few years ago. It had a rebuilt engine but very little oil pressure. Found out they did rebuild engine but did nothing to oil pump! Rebuilt it and now pressure is perfect. People 'rebuild' an engine without replacing cam bearings, too. You can probably fix the problem without a complete re-rebuild.
                Last edited by Jeffry Cassel; 06-26-2019, 05:43 AM.

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                • #38
                  Biggest sources of rattles on 'K' body Studes I have driven were due to worn out window rollers and disintegrated felt. Also the hood rod that runs across from hinge to hinge; the rubber sleeves move out of place or become hard as woodpecker lips, and flap against the upper firewall when the car rolls over bumps in the road. Of course old tires with hardened rubber and flat spots will make the whole car shake.

                  As for MPG, lot of variables there, including roads driven on. But on the Interstate or most US Routes, if your car is a 4-speed with 3.73 rear gears, you will probably never top 15 MPG even with a tail wind. If it's an OD, with 3.73 rear gears, you should see 17-22 on most any day. If a FOM with 3.31 or 3.07 rear end, you should see 16-20 MPG on a good day.

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                  • #39
                    As for rattles, all the window rollers and other parts associated have been replaced. Another help came when I bought new tires and rid myself of the other "new" tires. The car still rattles to beat the band; all rubber is new. Whew. As for the engine and low oil pressure "10lbs" on a rebuild by someone before I bought the car, I removed the engine. The tear down revealed rod and main bearings as well as the crank were severely scored as if sand particles were in the oil. I am rebuilding the engine and it will be done correctly. This car has been one big project correcting mistakes by previous owners.

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                    • #40
                      I had a similar experience with my '62 Hawk when I first got it. I finally decided to have the engine rebuilt to help improve the mileage. It was very close to what you're reporting. The rebuild did seem to add at least a few miles per gallon. It didn't seem so bad afterwards, anyway.
                      Originally posted by chet445 View Post
                      I'm about ready to give this car away; it has been a frame-on restoration and is a great disappointment in performance. It shakes and rattles with the least small imperfection on the road. The front end has been completely rebuilt including new coil springs, shocks, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings etc. I put on new leaf springs and bushings as well as shocks. The next thing that is not nice is fuel consumption on the 289...11 mpg on first two tanks of fuel. It is not that I can't afford the fuel cost but rather I expected better fuel performance. UGH! If someone has constructive thoughts the thoughts are welcome. Chet445
                      "Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.

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                      • #41
                        I'd say do not rebuild the motor, if it is in attempt to improve MPG. It may improve MPQ regarding oil consumption, but unless it is totally worn out or otherwise, "broken" (very low compression), replacing bearings and seals, and other efforts to improve oil pressure will not improve MPG. Further, it sounds as if you are still deciding whether you even like the car. A motor rebuild may cost several thousand dollars, depending on what's wrong with yours (supposedly rebuilt 6000 miles ago), and how honest the next rebuilder is. If you decide to sell, it is unlikely you'd recoup the $ invested in the re-rebuild.

                        As mentioned, all 'K' body Studes rattle, and 1950s-60s technology will never even come close to today's cars in comfort, speed, MPG, etc.. Just trying to offer you some things to consider.

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