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  • Fiberglass bonding

    I am getting ready to install fiberglass parts back to my wrecked avanti and I need to know what is the best type of material to use to bond the inner fender and outer fender together and then to the car. It looks as if what was used on the car was some type of puddy (bondo like) material.
    Can anyone give me the proper names of what to use.
    Also is there any video's on how to, or what parts order to install on the car is.
    I am also looking for a fiberglass packard hawk fan shroud to purchase.

  • #2
    3m Panel Bond or Lord Fusor is much better than the original materials. The seams have to be tapered on the outside, and fiberglassed or the seam WILL show latter on. Use high density fillers for panel overlaps like the tops of fenders, and such. I use a Kevlar fiber reinforced filler mixed with the high density Vette filler. The can of filler is very heavy as the filler has lots of silica in it to prevent shrinkage. If you don't want your repairs to show up in the hot sun, then do not use mar-glass or regular bondo type polyester fillers.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      When you say tapered , do you mean to thin down and angle or taper the outside edges so the filler is not paper thin? Thanks for great info. also what order would you install. inner fender then filler then fender then front nose . The nose should be subassembled I presume also?

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      • #4
        Also would you use screws or another type of holding device to hold the panels together until they cure. Is there a certain rivet used (factory) for the inner fender and parts.

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        • #5
          Good that you are doing some studying and research on the subject before merely buying a kit and charging ahead with repairs. Don't rush it. On fiberglass, catalyzed resin ratio and cure time is critical. Chemists are constantly researching and refining their products and since my last foray into fiberglass repair, there may have been some improvements in the process. My advice is to find a reputable automotive finish supplier and have a discussion with an experienced sales person about your project. Also, if you know of a boat/marine repair shop in your area take the time to stop in and get some pointers if you can. Those guys have to know the craftsmanship as good as anyone and should be up to date on fiberglass products and techniques.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            Every Avanti I have worked on that has used rivets to hold panels together the rivets later show up in the repair. I would dry fit the panels, then buy as many clamps as will fit. Line up the outer panels first, then the inner filler piece to hood for the gaps, then the inner fender last, as placement isn't going to affect hood gaps. The nose panel next Be sure you attach the front hood bumper before gluing the inner reinforcement to the inside of the nose, as there are metal rivet backing plates that can't be accessed if you glue it together first. Line it up with the radiator core support.Once the front clip is fitting, then you can glue the headlight buckets, and hood hinge pockets. If you try to assemble them and put the nose over that, the hood hinges will be out of place, and or it won't line up with the headlight buckets. There will be a gap between the two. If you do use rivets, REMOVE them after the glue has cured. Except for the inner panels to the firewall. There the rivets go in from the interior side, and use backer washers on the wheel well side. NEVER just rivet the panels together without a good panel bond glue between them. There are NO dry seams.
            When I say taper the joints I mean do not just but two replacement panels together, and finish off the glue excess on the outside finish. After the inside repair of two butted up panels is dry, grind down the outside panel, at the seam very shallow about an inch back on each side of the repair. lay strips if resin and fiberglass wet the repair with a paint brush, and lay in dry mat, wet it again, and lay in more strips until it is flush or slightly above the surrounding area. Lay wax paper over the wet repair, and roll it out so there are no air bubbles, or excess resin Too wet of a repair will make it show up in the hot sun after it is done. The final body work should be done with a finish product designed for fiberglass, NOT POLYESTER FILLER FOR METAL CARS. Don't use evercoat rage, or whatever your body shop supplier has told you is the best filler. It will not be the right product for fiberglass. It has to be high density, or the repair will show through eventually. They also say it is good for non structural repairs, that means don't use it as your glue to hold new panels together.
            Last edited by bezhawk; 01-25-2019, 09:35 AM.
            Bez Auto Alchemy
            573-318-8948
            http://bezautoalchemy.com


            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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            • #7
              Thanks for the great info. You do some great work. I am in the gathering stage as of now getting parts located and processes defined.

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              • #8
                I am wondering where you get your parts. I am also needing to get an Avanti dash cover and cannot find a source. I also need a a packard Hawk fan shroud (fiberglass).

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by cabforward View Post
                  I am wondering where you get your parts. I am also needing to get an Avanti dash cover and cannot find a source. I also need a a packard Hawk fan shroud (fiberglass).
                  Years ago, someone was reproducing Packard Hawk fan shrouds, but I do not remember who.
                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                  • #10
                    Our Packard Hawk was missing it's fan shroud when we got it. With a little trimming a 53 coupe shroud fit fine. I think we cut the mounting flange edge, and folded it back further, and redrilled the holes. All it took was some tin snips, and a hammer. I think it looked far better than the fiberglass one with the seam in the middle.
                    Bez Auto Alchemy
                    573-318-8948
                    http://bezautoalchemy.com


                    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      There is a NOS dash pad on E-bay now....a bit over $600.00...also contact Jon Myer
                      Originally posted by cabforward View Post
                      I am wondering where you get your parts. I am also needing to get an Avanti dash cover and cannot find a source. I also need a a packard Hawk fan shroud (fiberglass).

                      Comment

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