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My Half A$$ Studebaker Rebuild

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  • #76
    Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
    I contacted them and yes, they are on the way. Good thing, since the radiator guy told me the tank is swiss cheese.
    Hopefully, there's not too much more, of that material, in use on the rest of the car?

    Mark
    sigpic

    S2Deluxe = (5H - C3).

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    • #77
      Mark, I'm hoping there isn't anymore tinworm also. This may not be "traditional", but I really like these cars.



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      • #78
        I did more work in my tiny garage and made me miss working in a shop. I surely don't miss that kind of work though. It's one thing to do this for a hobby, quite another for a living. I certainly hate crawling around on the ground though.



        Twelve bolts??!!!! To hold this one on, why? I know it's heavy, everything on this car is, but way over secured. Anyway, it's out and I can now access the transmission bolts.



        Three hours later.....

        Last edited by Topper2011; 08-11-2018, 01:51 PM.

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        • #79
          I'm glad I bought the replacement transmission, this one didn't have any gear oil in it when I tried to drain it.








          Tomorrow, I'll pull the clutch.

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          • #80
            Lots of interest. I've done worse but wouldn't again! Should keep you off the steets for a few years and you will acquire new skills! Classic Enterprises, POR-15, wire brush and sanblaster.

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            • #81
              Oh, and pressure washer too. Had a mechanic do mine- the first time- with big heavy duty hot water machine. Sure got a lot of the 60 year old crud off of it.. I've pressure washed it 3 times since but still needs hand scaping and wire brush.

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              • #82
                Originally posted by Jeffry Cassel View Post
                Oh, and pressure washer too. Had a mechanic do mine- the first time- with big heavy duty hot water machine. Sure got a lot of the 60 year old crud off of it.. I've pressure washed it 3 times since but still needs hand scaping and wire brush.
                I'll definitely look into it when I get it on the road. It'll be just hand scraping, brushing and prodding for now. I feel like an archaeologist under that car. I spent 2 1/2 hours just to get the clutch out, what a chore. I used to be able to pull a transmission out or rear wheel drive car or pickup in 45 minutes when I used to work in a shop. Good thing I'm not flat rate anymore or I'd starve on this car.





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                • #83
                  To me, this car is pretty much overbuilt, cast iron bell housing, 12 securing bolts on a crossmember that doesn't even bolt to the trans. I believe I counted 16 bolts for the bell housing, although I do understand, as it is the trans mount as well. Weird as most cars use a mount near the tailshaft and not having all this weight hanging off the back. I'd imagine if anything is out of balance, it would accentuate the vibration.



                  Even the pilot bearing put up a struggle, so the air chisel came out to cut a groove in it and the puller won that fight.




                  Yep, transmission is seized and bone dry.



                  So glad I bought the replacement transmission and bell housing. For one, it was pretty clean, so repainting it was easier and this......



                  Lube your grease fittings people!



                  Much better!



                  And it's a match.



                  This week, I'll get all the clutch parts down to my rebuilder and have him resurface the flywheel, pressure plate and reline the clutch disc. He's been in business for a long time and learned from the previous owner and I would not be surprised if he had a throwout bearing in stock as well.
                  Last edited by Topper2011; 08-12-2018, 02:33 PM.

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                  • #84
                    You can't swap bellhousings. Each housing and engine block is mated to each other. You will have to dial in the bellhousing if you swap them.

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                    • #85
                      Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
                      You can't swap bellhousings. Each housing and engine block is mated to each other. You will have to dial in the bellhousing if you swap them.

                      Well that sucks. Guess I have to swap over the fork then. Thank you for letting me know. Studebakers are not to be taken for granted I suppose. This is confirmed with the service manual.

                      Last edited by Topper2011; 08-12-2018, 05:29 PM.

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                      • #86
                        I am thinking it would be easier for me to clean up the old housing and swapping over the rod instead of setting up the new housing to the crank. I had to use my heavy duty puller to pull the lever off the shaft as my three finger kept popping off.



                        While cleaning the old housing, I came across this.



                        It was probably written in by the installer, or this was a junkyard transmission and it was put on by the yard? K4, Hawk, but not sure of the rest of the letters. Has anyone else ran into this? Doh! I think it means for a PE code for 289.
                        Last edited by Topper2011; 08-29-2018, 05:43 PM.

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                        • #87
                          Hi Topper2011-
                          I am the owner of a 61 and 62 hawk, plus a 81 Avanti II. I appreciate that a few posters will have advised you to proceed in a particular fashion, but from my own experience, whichever way you tackle the individual parts I can highly advise you to get that body off the frame and rebuild from the ground up. I swear, there is nothing like being able to walk up to that thing and literally plonk the engine, trans, suspension, et-al straight in there. It makes work on the whole project so much easier with nothing in the way. Doing this forces you to go over every iota of the car and do it right the first time. Please consider this strategy and don't be in a big hurry to get the car moving. If you want to save some cash- on the subject of parts cleanup may I strongly suggest you invest in a grinder/ buffer and fit it with a wire wheel. Consider the same with a small angle grinder and wire wheel also. I have saved a small fortune not having to pay for sandblasting everything. You will get rotten dirty, but save heaps of moolah for more important things. Also look into electrolytic cleaning and stripping selected parts using a battery charger- I have had amazing results with this strategy. Lots of luck with your Hawk project- go steady and just enjoy it.
                          Steve

                          - - - Updated - - -

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                          • #88
                            I have just finished a frame off restore, on a 60 Hawk. I am going to agree with Steve, on the frame off advice. You can get to every inch of the chassis to inspect for damage or rust, removing and installing components is much easier. Leaning a little in the other direction, If you are the type of person that will get it into a million pieces, and then get overwhelmed, and never get it put back together, then it may be better to take smaller bites. Each individual would need to assess their own amount of time and resources, and make that decision. In the end, I believe that that the total disassembly will end up being a better car.

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                            • #89
                              Guys, thanks. I do take people's advice seriously and appreciate all the help I am getting. I wish I could do a frame off, I just don't have the finances or room to do that. Currently, it's in a very tight garage where I can only work on the left side of the car and will most likely have to drag the car out, turn it around and push it back in to work on the right side. It's why I took the door off at that time, as I cannot have the door open and work on it. With a 6 1/2' high garage, I have to lower the hood to jack it up enough to even get under the car with stands. The next garage I get will be able to accommodate a twin post Rotary lift. Having used many types of lift professionally, I think it is the best of all worlds of lift. They all have their shortcomings, but the offset twin posts have the least. Just make sure the controls for each side go overhead or underground or the cover plate on some of them will always be tripping you or hang up your cart or transmission jack.

                              My plan is the cleanup the interior and trunk, fix the rotted areas, get it running well enough to be reliable and slowly refine it. I hate redoing things, so I only want to do the brakes once, clutch once etc. Hopefully people get something out of what I am doing, right or wrong.

                              Now I have to look into replacing all the freeze plugs, doesn't look to fun.

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                              • #90
                                Think about temporarily using expansion plugs until you are ready to remove the engine

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